Category:White wine

Mini-reviews 146: AIX, Marques de Caceres, Ponga, Clean Slate

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

summer wine
“What does the WC suggest for summer wine drinking?”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four summer wines.

• AIX Rose 2020 ($20, purchased, 12.5%): Hugely popular Provencal pink made for the U.S. wine drinker who wants all wine to taste like it came from California. So this is softer and fruitier (watermelon and strawberry), with less minerality. Nothing wrong with it if that’s what you think Provencal should taste like — and if you think that’s what rose should cost. Imported by Kobrand

• Marques de Cáceres Verdejo 2020 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): This Spanish white is much more supermarket in style than the 2018, which was terrific. It’s just tart (lemon?) and not much else. Not badly made — just not as nicely done as the 2018. Imported by Vineyard Brands

• Ponga Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($14, sample, 12.5%): Well-made supermarket sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. Yes, lots of grapefruit, but hints of one or two other things stashed in the middle that make it more than it should be. Sadly, this wine would cost $9.99 in a perfect world. Imported by Winebow

• Clean Slate Riesling 2019 ($10, sample, 10,5%): Disappointing German riesling made in the “focus group” style. That means appreciably and annoyingly sweet and devoid of almost all riesling character save for some sort of peach something or other. This is the kind of $10 wine the industry gives us because they assume we don’t know any better. Imported by Mondovino

Photo:“Glass of White Wine” by Smabs Sputzer (1956-2017) is licensed under CC BY 2.0

Wine of the week: Vinho verde 2021

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

vinho verde 2020Vinho verde 2021: Shortages abound, especially for the least expensive wines, but quality remains high

Two important things to note for the blog’s annual vinho verde post: First, the wines are in short supply in many parts of the country, and especially in Dallas. This, no doubt, is just one more example of pandemic-related supply chain problems.

Second, quality remains high, an impressive achievement given everything going on in wine that works against that these days. I didn’t really taste a poorly made wine this year; that’s the opposite of what happened when I started writing about vinho verde in 2009.

So what do you need to know about vinho verde? It’s a Portuguese white wine (sometimes rose) with a greenish tint that usually doesn’t cost more than $8 (the blog’s vinho verde primer is here). It has a slightly sweet lemon lime flavor, low alcohol, and a little fizz — all of which makes it ideal for hot weather. Most of the cheapest wines, like Santola, Famega, Casal Garcia, and Gazela (and that often have a crab on the label), are made by the same couple of companies but sold under different names to different retailers.

Check out these vinho verde 2021 suggestions:

• Broadbent Vinho Verde NV ($9, purchased, 9%): I’ve been drinking this three or four times a month over the past year, and why not? It’s cheap, well made, and refreshing. Still the vinho that sets the standard — a little sweeter in this version, and more subdued green apple fruit. Imported by Broadbent Selections

• Quinta da Lixa Pouco Comun 2018 ($15, purchased, 13%): This is an example of how much vinho has changed. It’s made with alvarinho, the Portuguese version of Spain’s albarino, instead of the typical blend. In this, it’s less savory than a quality Spanish albarino, but with more soft lemon fruit. Highly recommended. Imported by Grape2Glass

• Vera Vinho Verde 2019 ($10, purchased, 12.5%): This vintage vinho verde has a little more polish and a more refined sweetness than most (sort of lime fruit). It’s a step up from most riesling at that price. Imported by Ole & Obrigado

• Gazela Vinho Verde NV ($8, purchased, 9%): Solid, typical vinho — fizzy lime with a bit of sweetness. If all ordinary vinho was made this well, the wine world would be cheaper and more enjoyable. Imported by Evaton

• Santola Vinho Verde NV ($7, purchased, 9%): The quintessential crab label vinho verde — a bit sweet, lots of sour fruit, and some beer fizz. Make sure it’s chilled, and you’ll drink it until the bottle is gone and and then open another one. Imported by Direct Wine Imports

• Faisao Vinho Verde NV ($7/1-liter bottle, purchased, 10%): No, this isn’t as well done as the rose. But it remains quality wine, and especially for the price and in a liter bottle — sour lime fruit, fizzy, with just enough sweetness. Keep well chilled. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.

For more about vinho verde:
• Vinho verde review 2020
• Vinho verde review 2019
• Vinho verde review 2018
• Winecast 45: DCanter’s Michael Warner and wine retail trends during the durationVinho verde review 2018

Father’s Day wine 2021

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Father's Day wine 2021
Yes, I know I’ve used this picture before. But it’s just so Father’s Day.

Father’s Day wine 2021: Four wines for Dad to enjoy

This year’s Father’s Day wine post finds wine not nearly as bad off as it was a year ago. So celebrate with the blog’s Father’s Day wine 2021. And don’t forget the blog’s wine gift-giving guidelines — don’t buy someone wine that you think they should like; buy them what they will like.

Father’s Day wine 2021 suggestions:

• Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Rose 2020 ($20, sample, 14%): This Italian pink intimidated me, what with its price and alcohol content. Fortunately, I tasted it with the Italian Wine Guy, who told me to just shut up and enjoy it. And he was correct: Almost savory, with strawberry and raspberry fruit — a very sophisticated rose. Highly recommended. Imported by Vintus

• Prophecy Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): Spot-on supermarket sauvignon blanc from New Zealand (and E&J Gallo) that reminds me why these wines offer so much value. Simple, but well made and clean, with a bit of lemon to go with the not too tart grapefruit. Much better than I expected, given the blather on the back label: “aromas of cool sea air.” Imported by Prophecy Wines

• Citra Sangiovese 2019 ($12, sample, 13%): Not quite as well done as the 2017, but still a simple, enjoyable Italian red wine and just the thing for burgers on the grill. Look for cherry fruit, a little acidity, and some spice. Imported by Winebow

• Juvé y Camps Brut Rose NV ($17, purchased, 12%): This Spanish pink sparkler is known for including pinot noir instead of the more traditional trepat, so it’s always a little less tart than other cavas. But always well done — soft strawberry fruit and lots and lots of tight, tiny bubbles. Imported by Vintus

More Father’s Day wine:
• Father’s Day wine 2020
• Father’s Day wine 2019
• Father’s Day wine 2018
• Expensive wine 144: Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi 2018

Wine of the week: Vision Gruner Veltliner 2019

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Vision Gruner Veltliner
Vision Gruner Veltliner 2019/$12-$15

The Vision Gruner Veltliner offers a quality Austrian white wine at a fair price

Doug Caskey, one of the finest people in the wine business, is always giving me a hard time about my aversion to gruner veltliner, the Austrian white wine. So this wine of the week is for you, Doug.

The Vision Gruner Veltliner 2019 ($13, purchased, 12.5%) doesn’t suffer from the things that make me wince when the subject of gruner comes up. It hasn’t been overhyped, it’s not overpriced, and and it tastes like gruner and not a riesling knockoff.

Would I prefer that it was a couple of bucks less? Of course. But it’s still worth buying at $13, because it’s a fine example of gruner. There’s a little riesling oiliness (though it’s not a sweet wine); there’s lots of fresh tart fruit (one tasting note says barely ripe pear, though I get more lime zest); an almost spicy quality; and a clean, minerally finish.

So something for Doug and I to drink the next time we get together – which, given the optimism in the news these days, might be sooner rather than later. We can sit on the porch, sip the wine, and be glad about the optimism in the news.

Imported by Broadbent Selections

Wine of the week: Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap White 2019

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Ah, to drink chenin blanc now that summer is here – The Wolftrap White

Chenin blanc probably isn’t the most unappreciated white grape in the world – that’s likely riesling – but chenin is unappreciated enough. So when the Wine Curmudgeon can recommend a wine with chenin blanc – and especially at this price – how can I can pass up the opportunity?

The Wolftrap White 2019 ($10, sample, 13.5%) is a South African white blend; chenin (32 percent) is only the second grape after vigonier (38 percent) and ahead of grenache blanc (30 percent). But the chenin gives it backbone and structure; there’s a little spice from the grenache blanc and a bit of stone fruit (peach?) from the viognier. Refreshing and just the thing as the weather warms up.

This is a simple wine, which probably accounts for the surprising number of meh reviews elsewhere. But it’s not stupid, and to criticize it for not being something that it’s not supposed to be seems counterproductive.

One other note: The back label waxes poetic about oak, but this wine has seen about as much oak as my morning coffee.

Imported by Vineyard Brands

Mother’s Day wine 2021

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

mother's day 2021
“Remember — buy me what you think I’ll like, and not what you think I should drink.”

Four suggestions — white, sparkling, rose, and red — for Mother’s Day 2021

The blog’s 15th annual Mother’s Day wine post reminds me of a couple of things, but mostly that I always need to write about wines that my mom will enjoy (and won’t have too much trouble finding in a store near her).

So, as always, the emphasis is on valuer and quality, with the reminder that we should buy Mom something she will enjoy and not something we think she should drink. These Mother’s Day wine suggestions should get you started:

• Balletto Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20, sample, 13.1%): This is classic California sauvignon blanc, which isn’t easy to find any more. That means a wonderful aroma of grassiness with a hint of melon, lemon fruit but not particularly tart, and a long, minerally finish. Highly recommended (and even worth doing a Zoom tasting to sample).

• Ackerman Marquis de la Tour Brut NV ($10, purchased, 11%): Terrific cheap bubbly from France’s Loire that’s made with chardonnay, chenin blanc, and – believe it or not – ugni blanc. It’s soft, a little sweet (honey?), with lemon and apple fruit. But the bubbles are tight, even though it’s charmat. Very nicely done. Imported by Palm Bay International

• Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare 2020 ($15, sample, 13.5%): This California pink, always one of my favorites, was a little less Doonish last vintage. But this is as it should be: Stony, almost austere, with a hint of barely ripe strawberry fruit to remind you it’s rose, as well as a very long and very clean finish. Highly recommended.

• Tinto Negro Malbec 2019 ($10, sample, 13.5%): I’ve probably tasted more Argentine malbecs during the pandemic than the past couple of years combined; the quality, as with this wine, has been much better than expected. It’s a bright, fresh and not too jammy red, with lots of blueberry fruit. But it’s not overdone and there is plenty of acidity and even a little spice to back it up. Very professional rendering of this style. Imported by Vineyard Brands

Photo: Thiago Cerqueira, via Unsplash

More about Mother’s Day wine:
• Mother’s Day wine 2020
• Mother’s Day wine 2019
• Mother’s Day wine 2018
• Expensive wine 140: WillaKenzie Estate Chardonnay 2018
• Wine of the week: Garofoli Macrina 2019

Expensive wine 144: Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi 2018

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi 2018
Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi 2018/$19-$25

The Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi is a reminder that great wine doesn’t have to be ridiculously expensive

The last time I reviewed this wine it cost one-third less and was a wine of the week. Nevertheless, it was a value then and it remains a value today.

That’s because quality wines made by a top-notch producer may cost more than they used to. But they still deliver value when too many other wines cost more for no reason other than they should. The Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi ($22, purchased, 13.5%) is firmly of the first category.

It’s an Italian white made with the less-known cortese grape. This vintage, though already three years old, could use a little more time in the bottle to come together. Still, it’s well worth drinking, and especially well worth buying for a Mother’s Day brunch next week.

Look for green herbs, barely ripe pear fruit, and even the kind of grassiness usually found in traditional California sauvignon blanc. Plus, it’s wonderfully flinty and almost savory in a way certain Italian white wines can be when they don’t try to be something other than Italian white wines.

Highly recommended. It’s the kind of wine the late Pia Boffa would have tasted with a wine writer and then expounded on, telling the writer why it’s the best example of its kind of wine possible.

And he might have been right.

Imported by Maisons Marques & Domaines USA