Category:French wine

Wine of the week: Chateau Bonnet Blanc 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Wine of the week: Chaeau Bonnet Blanc 2022
Chateau Bonnet Blanc 2022/$8-$20

This French white blend remains one of wine’s great values

The blog’s final wine of the week is a French white blend, Chateau Bonnet Blanc — one of the great cheap wines of all time. It has been a wine of the week five times and has been a regular in the Hall of Fame since the first hall appeared on the blog in 2008.

Of course, wine being wine, I haven’t reviewed the Bonnet Blanc for three years. For one thing. I haven’t seen it much on store shelves since the 2018 vintage. For another, when I have seen it, the price has been as high as $20, which is ridiculous. It’s a great cheap wine, not a mediocre supermarket wine.

So be glad I found the Chateau Bonnet Blanc 2022 ($12, purchased, 13%) in time for this post. This vintage is mostly what it has always been, a traditional white Bordeaux blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon. The semillon is still noticeable, and it adds some richness and a little spice.

But there’s also a touch more lemon fruit and less minerality than in previous years, so the wine tastes a bit less French in style and more like New Zealand. Still, that could be a vintage difference and not a deliberate attempt to focus group the wine.

Regardless, I bought six bottles of it (with a new label, even) before tasting it, and I haven’t been disappointed. You can’t offer higher praise than that, can you?

Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

Christmas wine 2023

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

christmas wine 2020
Yes, this is the last time you’ll have to see this picture in the Christmas wine post.

Four recommendations for Christmas wine 2023

For the final time, the blog’s Christmas wine suggestions, whether for a last minute gift, something to drink when you just want a glass over the next couple of weeks, or for a holiday dinner. Keep our wine gift giving tips in mind — and don’t overlook the blog’s 2023 holiday gift guide.

These wines will get you started:

• Riondo Prosecco NV ($10, purchased, 11%): Italian bubbly is simple but surprisingly enjoyable — much better than I thought it would be. Lots and lots of bubbles, some vaguely tropical fruit, and not especially sweet. Imported by Terlato Wines International

• Falesco Est! Est!! Est!!! 2021 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): This Italian white is a long-time blog favorite, and especially when it cost $8. It tasted has it always has — tart lemon fruit, one-note, and simple, but always fun. Imported by Heritage Collection 

• Perrin & Fils Côtes du Rhône Reserve 2020 ($12, purchased, 14%): This French red is a fairly typical inexpensive Cotes du Rhone (lots of syrah and heavier in the mouth), but mostly balanced with a bit of spice and the requisite amount of black fruit. Imported by Vineyard Brands

• Stemmari Rosato 2021 ($8, purchased, 12%): Italian pink from Sicily made with with the nero d’avola grape. Much going on here for $8; a bit savory, with a bit of berry fruit, and almost stony. Highly recommended. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports

More about Christmas wine:
• Christmas wine 2022
• Christmas wine 2021
• Christmas wine 2020
• Wine of the week: The Curator Red 2021
• Expensive wine 169: Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Photo: “guardian of wine” by marcostetter is marked with CC PDM 1.0

Expensive wine 175: Val de Mer Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc (No Dosage) NV

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Vale de Mer cremant bttle
Val de Mer Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc (No Dosage) NV/$21-$25

This French sparkler is about as different from the typical $60 bubbly as possible

What better bottle to use for the blog’s final expensive wine post than this one? It’s purposely made to taste unlike the typical, overpriced Champagne; it’s not especially expensive given sparkling prices; and it got a crummy score on the blog’s unofficial wine inventory app.

In other words, there’s more for the rest of us to enjoy.

The difference between the Val de Mer Cremant de Bourgogne Blanc (No Dosage) NV ($24, purchased, 12%) and Champagne (other than region) is that sugar (called the dosage) isn’t added to the fermented still wine to spur on the second fermentation and soften the bubbly’s acidity. There’s a more complete explanation here, though the subject can get past technical.

For our purposes, it’s enough to know that leaving the dosage out makes a tauter, more dry wine than even really nice $100 Champagnes, which can have a hint of residual sugar. Yes, even this one.

In the case of the Val de Mer, leaving out the dosage produces a wine where the chardonnay really shows off and that is oh so bone dry. So it tastes very little like this Champagne. Which, of course, is the point — and the reason for the crummy scores.

Not that it matters to the WC. This wine has gorgeous, tight bubbles, lots of apple fruit (with a bit of lemon tucked in the back), and what one tasting note calls chalky minerality. It’s an amazing wine; highly recommended and a steal at this price.

Imported by T. Elenteny Imports

 

Wine of the week: Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul bottle
Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul 2022/$8-$16

This vintage of the French wine is different from the last, but that doesn’t make it bad

Wine is not necessarily supposed to taste exactly the same every vintage, no matter how hard Big Wine tries to make it otherwise. Because, as I learned a long time ago, vintage differences are one of the things that make wine wine.

Case in point: The Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul 2022 ($12, purchased, 13%). Picpoul is a white grape that is known for the tart wine it makes — hence, lip-stinger. The 2022 is softer and not as tart as previous vintages of the Costieres de Pomerols, but that is neither good nor bad. It’s just different.

The 2022 has more golden delicious apple fruit (sort of geeky wine descriptor alert!) than the more typical lemon and citrus. But the other bits of a well-made picpoul are there, including a touch of green herbs and that classy, clean finish. Chill it and drink on its own, or with almost anything that isn’t big, red, meat.

It’s also worth noting that picpoul wines remains tremendous values, despite everything else going on in wine. I checked the Wine-Searcher list of most popular picpouls for this post, and 18 of the top 20 cost $15 or less.

A wine of the week doesn’t get much more curmudgeonly than that, does it?

Imported by Kysela Pere & Fils

Wine of the week: Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Grenache-Syrah 2019

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Bottle of Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Grenache-Syrah 2019
Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Grenache-Syrah 2019/$10-$15

A red Rhone that is both affordable and enjoyably rustic

The WC has often had a difficult time evaluating red wines from France’s Rhone region. Many of them have a quality that can be off-putting — an earthiness that can sometimes get out of hand, producing a rough and occasionally unpleasant wine. The catch is that earthiness is an important part of these wines, so how much is too much?

The Cellier des Dauphins Grenache-Syrah 2019 ($12, purchased, 14%) offers an example of the correct amount of earthiness. It’s just what one would expect from this sort of wine at this price — rustic and earthy, but not disagreeably so, and surprisingly balanced given its grenache-style red fruit, which can be too jammy. It’s not for all tastes — it’s hardly smoooth — but for those who want to see what the Rhone is like but don’t want to spend $40, this wine do the trick.

Which shouldn’t be surprising, since the Cellier des Dauphins wines usually provide value, and I’m especially fond of the rose.

The red is a food wine, and needs something substantial — takeout pizza perhaps, as the holidays get closer. Or even something beefy for an informal holiday dinner.

Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

Thanksgiving wine 2023

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Cartoon of turkey with wine glassFour Thanksgiving wine 2023 suggestions

The WC’s favorite holiday is Thanksgiving. I get to cook and share wine and food with the people I care about. How can that not be terrific?

So enjoy the holiday, and especially these Thanksgiving wine 2023 suggestions. The blog’s guidelines for holiday wine buying are here.

• La Fiera Pinot Grigio 2021 ($11, purchased, 12%): This Italian white is about as consistent as this kind of wine gets (though it’s more Kirkland in style this vintage). But its still well made, with a hint of lemon peel and very clean and dry. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.

• Althea Prosecco NV ($15, purchased, 11%): $15 Prosecco for people who like Prosecco — so a touch sweet, terrific fizzy bubbles, and a bit of lemon fruit. Very professional. Imported by La Cigale Wines

• Domaine Laroque Pinot Noir 2021 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): Simple, almost rustic French pinot noir that mostly tastes like pinot noir. Some dark red fruit, a bit more tannin than it should have, a surprisingly pinot noir aroma, and, overall, probably greater than the sum of its parts. Imported by Aquitane Wine USA

• Zestos Old Vine Rosado 2022 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): All of the Zestos Spanish wines are worth buying, and in large quantities. This vintage of the rose is more in the Provencal style, with barely ripe berry fruit and some minerality. Imported by Ole & Obrigado

More about Thanksgiving wine:
• Thanksgiving wine 2022
• Thanksgiving wine 2021
• Thanksgiving wine 2020
• Wine of the week: Santa Julia Malbec Organica 2022
• Expensive wine 167: Ameztoi Hondarrabi Zuri 2021

Wine of the week: La Vieille Ferme Blanc 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Once again, one of the world’s great cheap whites doesn’t disappoint – no matter what others think

La Vieille Ferme Blanc bottle
La Vieille Ferme Blanc 2022/$6-$12

The French La Vieille Ferme Blanc is annually one of the world’s great cheap white wines, and the 2022 version ($9, purchased, 13%) doesn’t disappoint – some lime, some stone fruit, and clean and fresh.

Nevertheless, someone gave it 69 points – which means it’s undrinkable — on CellarTracker, the blog’s unofficial wine inventory app.

Do I need to write any more? Or remind everyone why I’m so worried about the future of the wine business?

Imported by Vineyard Brands