Tag Archives: New Zealand wine

Mini-reviews 164: The woe to availability edition – and just in time for Christmas

empty grocery store shelves
“The WC wasn’t kidding — nary a bottle to be found.”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four interesting wines, but good luck finding three of them (two of which I bought).

• Vins El Cep Xarello 2020 ($12, purchased, 11.5%): This Spanish white is made with a cava grape, xarello. From my tasting notes: “Surprisingly amazing,” given that xarello doesn’t often make quality still wine. But there is structure, lemon and a bit of apple fruit, and quite clean. Limited availability. by Fine Estates from Spain

• El Tuerto Tempranillo Blanco 2021 ($18, purchased, 13%): This Spanish white, made with the red tempranillo grape, is a floral, almost pretty wine, with a blend of tropical and citrus fruits. Impeccably balanced. Highly recommended, if you can find any. Imported by Classic Wines

• Satellite Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%) I still don’t understand why we’re still hearing that there isn’t any New Zealand sauvignon blanc; this is an older past vintage and it’s still for sale. The wine sits midway between the always fine Spy Valley (which makes it) and all those supermarket Bay wines. So less overtly grapefruit, but still citrusy, but a little softer and more tropical in the middle. Imported by Broadbent Wines

• Gillmore Mariposa 2020 ($14, sample, 14%): Rich and full red blend (half cabernet franc, and the rest merlot and syrah) from Chile. So dark fruit, refined tannins and surprising acidity. Too much syrah for my taste but well made. And, of course, not much for sale in the U.S. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Photo: “Empty grocery store shelves in Austin during the 2021 Texas energy crisis” by Jno.skinner is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.

Wine of the week: Ant Moore Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Ant Moore sauvingon blanc bottle
Ant Moore Sauvignon Blanc 2021/$10-$17

So far, New Zealand’s sauvignon blanc Armageddon seems to be less Armageddon-y than thought

There are certain things you can count on hearing all the time in the wine business – each harvest, despite challenges, is going to produce an excellent vintage, for example, or that bad weather will cause devastating shortages and higher prices in a region’s wine production.

And no, I have never been able to figure out why they aren’t mutually exclusive conditions. But that’s wine for you.

I mention this to note that the Ant Moore is the third New Zealand sauvignon blanc to appear as a wine of the week since forecasts of the New Zealand sauvignon blanc Armageddon last fall. So maybe, just maybe, the devastating shortages weren’t quite so devastating?

The Ant Moore 2021 ($10, purchased, 12.5%) is the kind of wine that represents the strength of the country’s production: Professional, varietally correct, and a step up from supermarket quality. There isn’t too much grapefruit, the finish is almost minerally, and something that sort of resembles tropical fruit in the middle – always a sign of a well-crafted Kiwi sauvignon blanc.

And all for $10. No wonder this is exactly the kind of kind of wine that if you like, you buy a case.

Imported by USA Wine West

Wine of the week: Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Kono sauvignon blanc bottle
Kono Sauvignon Blanc 2021/$10-$19

This New Zealand white is one more example of the failings of wine availability

In 2013 – yes, 2013 — I reviewed this wine and wrote: The Kono is more than just another one-note grapefruit effort, and offers quality at a terrific price.

So why did it take almost 10 years to review the wine again?

We all know the answer to that, don’t we? The three-tier system and how it screws up wine availability. As I told the PR person who sent me the wine: I haven’t seen it Dallas for so long that I figured that no one made it any more.

Fortunately, I was wrong. The 2021 Kono ($12, sample, 13%) offers the same value and quality that it did almost a decade ago. It remains more than just another New Zealand supermarket sauvignon blanc, one of those cute label “Bay” wines that costs $8 and tastes like it.

Yes. there’s plenty of grapefruit, but it’s more white than pink. And, as all well-made Kiwi sauvignon blancs, there’s a hint of something tropical in the middle, as well as that wonderful crisp finish.

If it’s not a candidate for the Hall of Fame next year, it’s something almost as rare: A quality, dependable supermarket white wine that hasn’t been sugared up.

Imported by Total Beverage Solutions

Mini-reviews 152: The night before Christmas Eve Edition

rudolph
Not even the WC is clever enough to turn wine shipping holders into Rudolph — and I certainly get enough of them.

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. This month, a day early because of Christmas.

• Cline Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($14, purchased, 14%): I’m not sure what this tastes like (Italian pinot grigio, maybe?), but it certainly doesn’t taste like California sauvignon blanc. Plus, the higher alcohol is noticeable and the bottle is way too heavy — 22 ounces, or about one-third more than it needs to be. And Cline was once a top-notch $10 wine producer.

• Ricardo Santos El Malbec 2019 ($20, sample, 13.5%): Interesting approach to Argentine malbec — some oak, some spice, much less fruity and made to age, more in the style of Bordeaux. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Textbook Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($30, sample, 13.3%): This, I suppose, is what passes for entry-level Napa cabernet these days. Professionally made, hitting all the notes it’s supposed to hit (rich, dark berries, some oak, some spice, leaning toward fruit over acid and tannins), and made with quality grapes. But a value? Only if you really like Napa cabernet.

• Satellite Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($13, purchased, 13$): New Zealand white is the second label from highly-regarded Spy Valley, and it sits about halfway between that and all those supermarket “Bay” sauvignon blancs. That means less overtly grapefruit, but still citrusy, but a little softer and more tropical in the middle. Imported by Broadbent Wines

Photo: “Rudolph the Wine Holder” by edenpictures is licensed under CC BY 2.0

Mini-reviews 149: Naia, Milagro, Luberri, Sunshine Bay

geeky wine
Let’s see — which geeky wine do I want to taste?

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, three interesting wines and something from Aldi.

• Naia S-naia 2018 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): Spanish sauvignon blanc, which I bought my mistake. Thought it was the Naia verdejo, one of my favorites. Having said that, it’s more subtle than New Zealand or French sauvignon blanc. Look for some stoniness, not much fruit (tropical?), and Naia’s trademark finish. A wine geek wine. Imported by Aviva Vino

• Milagro Corrales Red NV ($18, sample, 12.5%): Pleasant New Mexico red blend (black fruit, soft tannins, decent acidity, and more oak than I expected) and a little of that regional wine funkiness. Which is a good thing.

• Luberri Seis de Luberri 2018 ($18, purchased, 13.5%): Interesting and not very traditional red from Spain’s Rioja, made with a form of carbonic maceration and lots of oak for a wine at this price. Hence, less acid, more round and full, and almost tastes like it has merlot in it. Even geekier than the Naia. Imported by De Maison Selections

• Sunshine Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($7, purchased, 12.5%): This New Zealand white, only available at Aldi, isn’t nearly as one note as past vintages. That means less citrus and an almost grassy thing. Certainly $7 worth of sauvignon blanc. Imported by GK Skaggs

Photo: Ana Itonishvili on Unsplash

Mini-reviews 146: AIX, Marques de Caceres, Ponga, Clean Slate

summer wine
“What does the WC suggest for summer wine drinking?”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four summer wines.

• AIX Rose 2020 ($20, purchased, 12.5%): Hugely popular Provencal pink made for the U.S. wine drinker who wants all wine to taste like it came from California. So this is softer and fruitier (watermelon and strawberry), with less minerality. Nothing wrong with it if that’s what you think Provencal should taste like — and if you think that’s what rose should cost. Imported by Kobrand

• Marques de Cáceres Verdejo 2020 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): This Spanish white is much more supermarket in style than the 2018, which was terrific. It’s just tart (lemon?) and not much else. Not badly made — just not as nicely done as the 2018. Imported by Vineyard Brands

• Ponga Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($14, sample, 12.5%): Well-made supermarket sauvignon blanc from New Zealand. Yes, lots of grapefruit, but hints of one or two other things stashed in the middle that make it more than it should be. Sadly, this wine would cost $9.99 in a perfect world. Imported by Winebow

• Clean Slate Riesling 2019 ($10, sample, 10,5%): Disappointing German riesling made in the “focus group” style. That means appreciably and annoyingly sweet and devoid of almost all riesling character save for some sort of peach something or other. This is the kind of $10 wine the industry gives us because they assume we don’t know any better. Imported by Mondovino

Photo:“Glass of White Wine” by Smabs Sputzer (1956-2017) is licensed under CC BY 2.0

Father’s Day wine 2021

Father's Day wine 2021
Yes, I know I’ve used this picture before. But it’s just so Father’s Day.

Father’s Day wine 2021: Four wines for Dad to enjoy

This year’s Father’s Day wine post finds wine not nearly as bad off as it was a year ago. So celebrate with the blog’s Father’s Day wine 2021. And don’t forget the blog’s wine gift-giving guidelines — don’t buy someone wine that you think they should like; buy them what they will like.

Father’s Day wine 2021 suggestions:

• Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Rose 2020 ($20, sample, 14%): This Italian pink intimidated me, what with its price and alcohol content. Fortunately, I tasted it with the Italian Wine Guy, who told me to just shut up and enjoy it. And he was correct: Almost savory, with strawberry and raspberry fruit — a very sophisticated rose. Highly recommended. Imported by Vintus

• Prophecy Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): Spot-on supermarket sauvignon blanc from New Zealand (and E&J Gallo) that reminds me why these wines offer so much value. Simple, but well made and clean, with a bit of lemon to go with the not too tart grapefruit. Much better than I expected, given the blather on the back label: “aromas of cool sea air.” Imported by Prophecy Wines

• Citra Sangiovese 2019 ($12, sample, 13%): Not quite as well done as the 2017, but still a simple, enjoyable Italian red wine and just the thing for burgers on the grill. Look for cherry fruit, a little acidity, and some spice. Imported by Winebow

• Juvé y Camps Brut Rose NV ($17, purchased, 12%): This Spanish pink sparkler is known for including pinot noir instead of the more traditional trepat, so it’s always a little less tart than other cavas. But always well done — soft strawberry fruit and lots and lots of tight, tiny bubbles. Imported by Vintus

More Father’s Day wine:
• Father’s Day wine 2020
• Father’s Day wine 2019
• Father’s Day wine 2018
• Expensive wine 144: Pio Cesare Cortese di Gavi 2018