Category:Sparkling wine

Mini-reviews 161: The “even more wines that make me cranky” edition

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

women drinking wine
“How can a wine taste like berry-ish 7Up?”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four wines that made the WC even crankier than usual

• Segura Viudas Brut Rosada NV ($10, purchased, 12%): This Spanish sparkling wine was once among the greatest of cheap wines. Now, thanks to consolidation, it tastes like poorly made Prosecco, too sweet, too soft, and with flabby red fruit. Can someone tell me what the point of that is? Imported by Freixenet USA

• Montes Sauvignon Blanc Limited Selection 2021 ($15, sample, 13.5%): This Chilean white doesn’t hearken to the country’s great days of sauvignon blanc. It’s a one-note wine (lots and lots of lemongrass) that doesn’t taste especially Chilean. Imported by Kobrand

• TerraNoble Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva 2018 ($18, sample, 14%): Chilean cab that tastes more like California — which, if the tasting notes are correct, is supposed to be the case. Sweet dark fruit and very rich, but not much else going on. Why do producers take the tannins out of cabernet? Imported by Winebow

• Borgo San Michele Mariage Brut NV ($18, sample, 11.5%): The multi-decorated bottle is more interesting than the wine, which is berry-ish 7Up – soft and boring, even for this style of Prosecco. Imported by Taub Family Selections

Labor Day wine 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

plates of marinated olives
A porch, chilled white wine, and plates of marinated olives. Yes, Labor Day.

Four wines to help celebrate Labor Day wine 2022

The Wine Curmudgeon pitched a Labor Day wine freelance story recently, and the editor was unimpressed. Her loss.

How could anyone not be ready for chilled wine — even the reds! — and sipped on a shaded place on the porch. And maybe some brats?

These four bottles will begin the holiday, but don’t be afraid to find your own — and don’t overlook the blog’s porch wine guidelines:

• Cantina Cellaro Luma 2019 ($12, purchased, 13%): Easily one of the best Sicilian nero d’avolas I’ve tasted in years — varietally correct, with dark, fresh, and almost plummy fruit, and even some substance and body. An honest wine, and not made to be smooth. Bring on the brats. Imported by Gonzalez Byass

• Trinennes Rose 2021  ($18, purchased, 12.5%): Yes, more money than I’d usually pay for rose, but well worth it. This is classic Provencal-stye rose — not much fruit (“wild strawberry”) and long and clean and stony. Missing garrigue, the herbal aroma, but that’s the only disappointment. Highly recommended. Imported by Sorting Table

• Garofoli Macrina 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%): This vintage of the Italian white isn’t as well rounded as the 2019, but there is still plenty of almonds, light citrus, and minerality on the finish. Bring on the olives. Imported by Garofoli USA

• Bellussi Prosecco NV ($13, purchased, 11%):  Soft but surprisingly structured extra dry Prosecco, the Italian sparkling wine (so sweet). There is appealing candied lemon fruit, lots and lots of almost creamy bubbles, and a clean finish. Much better than I expected. Imported by Misa Imports

Photo: v2osk on Unsplash

For more about Labor Day wine:
• Labor Day wine 2021
• Labor Day wine 2020
• Labor Day wine 2019
• Wine of the week: Shannon Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Expensive wine 158: Sektkellerei Szigeti Brut NV

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Bottle of Sektkellerei Szigeti Grüner Veltliner Brut NV
Sektkellerei Szigeti Brut NV/$18-$28

Yes, Austrian sparkling wine, and well made and tasty

The Wine Curmudgeon may be one of the few people who gets paid to drink wine who doesn’t shout hosannas every time Austrian wine comes around. This is not to denigrate Austrian wine, which can be delightful. Rather, it’s to note that Austrian wine has long been a favorite of sommeliers and the Winestream Media, and you can imagine how that wears me out.

So what is the Sektkellerei Szigeti Brut doing here? Because, as cranky as I can be, remember the WC’s first rule of wine criticism: “Taste the wine before you write about it.” And, upon tasting, the Sektkellerei Szigeti Brut ($22, sample, 12.5%) is worth writing about.

Know that it’s made with gruner vetliner, the much respected Austrian white grape, but doesn’t seem to be very gruner-ish. Know, also, that that isn’t necessarily a problem, since gruner can get a bt bland if the winemaker isn’t paying attention.

Finally, know that it’s a quality, professional sparkler, much better than I thought it would be (see, thinking before tasting again). There is lots and lots of acidity that somehow isn’t a problem, as well as quality bubbles and almost a sort of creaminess. The fruit flavors are some sort of unripe pear and almost green apple thing, which again is not what I expected. Some tasting notes get a spiciness, which I didn’t, but it wouldn’t surprise me if it was there.

Drink this, well chilled, on its own – porch wine, in fact – or pair it with richer seafood.

Imported by Winebow

Fourth of July wine 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

super hero miniatures
“Quick — to the retailer before premiumization destroys all the quality cheap wine.”

Fourth of July wine 2022: Four bottles offering value and quality for Independence Day

This year, the U.S. is 246 years old — so here are wines worthy of that birthday. As always, keep our summer and porch wine guidelines in mind for this time of year.

Here are four wines to start with:

• Tormaresca Calafuria 2020 ($10, purchased, 12%): Once, the Italian Tormaresca Neprica was the blog’s favorite cheap red wine. Then, it went the way of the rest. So imagine my surprise to taste this Tormaresca pink —  a little fizzy, dark berry fruit, and a touch not light. Nicely done. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estate

• Pedroncelli Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($15, sample, 13.9%): Classic California sauvignon blanc — grassy, a bit of citrus, not too tart, and almost flinty. A three-generation family producer shows how it’s done.

• Trivento Malbec Reserve 2020 ($11, sample, 13.8%): Solid, professional Argentine red, made in the supermarket style — lots of sweet black fruit, but not a sweet wine and one that is mostly balanced. Previous vintages have been a little darker and earthier, but this is fine for what if tries to do. Barbecue? Indeed. Imported by Eagle Peak Estates

• Charles LaFitte Brut Prestige NV ($12, purchased, 12%): Entry-level French Methode Champenoise sparkling from a prestigious producer, but made far from Champagne. Yes, there is a bit of the 7-Up feel to it, but otherwise well-made cheap bubbly — some green apples, tight bubbles, and almost zesty. Imported by Vranken Pommery America

Photo: TFNY18_074c” by BAS Photog is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0.

More Fourth of July wine:
• Fourth of July wine 2021
• Fourth of July wine 2020
• Fourth of July wine 2019
• Wine of the week: Bonny Doon Picpoul 2021

Father’s Day wine 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Father's Day ties
Once more, the Father’s Day tie picture — call me corny, but I love it.

Father’s Day wine 2022: Bring on the well-made and value-oriented wine for Dad

Yes, despite economic uncertainty and all the rest, we found wine for Dad for Father’s Day that fits what we do here — price and value, and not silliness. And don’t forget the blog’s wine gift-giving guidelines — don’t buy someone wine that you think they should like; buy them what they will like.

Father’s Day wine 2022 suggestions:

• Carol Shelton Wild Thing Zinfandel 2018 ($18, purchased, 14.5%): Spot-on California old vine zinfandel (60 years at least) that is somehow jammy (berries and berries and more berries), but not heavy or hot. Having said that it’s a big wine and a mouthful, and needs lots of red meat. Highly recommended.

• Domaine Bousquet Brut NV ($13, sample, 12%): Argentine bubbly with surprising structure, tight-ish bubbles, not too sweet, and apple and lemon fruit. Imported by Origins Organic

• Jean-Pierre Boisson Rose Domaine du Pere Caboche ($11, purchased, 12.5%): Full, rich and surprisingly complex $10 French rose, with almost cranberry fruit and what one tasting note calls grenadine. Highly recommended. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

• Chateau La Maroutine Blanc 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%): French white Bordeaux blends sauvignon blanc and semillion; the latter, though only 20 percent, is noticeable, and gives the wine a rounder, less citrsusy feel. Lots of stone and minerality. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons

More Father’s Day wine:
• Father’s Day wine 2021
• Father’s Day wine 2020
• Father’s Day wine 2019
• Expensive wine 154: Frank Family Merlot 2018

Mother’s Day wine 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

mother's day
“Yes, honey. We’ll buy some of the WC’s Mother’s Day wine suggestions.”

Four suggestions — white, sparkling, rose, and red — for Mother’s Day 2022

The blog’s 16th annual Mother’s Day wine post speaks to how far we’ve come in making it OK to buy cheap wine, despite all the obstacles over the years.  So, as always, the emphasis is on value and quality — and with the reminder that we should buy Mom something she will enjoy and not something we think she should drink.

These Mother’s Day wine suggestions should get you started:

• Calcu Rosé Reserva Especial 2021 ($13, sample, 12.5%): Much more going on with this Chilean pink (a blend of malbec and petit verdot) than it would seem. Crisp, tart, stony, and barely ripe berry fruit. Highly recommended. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Duquesa de Valladolid Verdejo 2020 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): Solid, professional Spanish white from the Rueda region. That means very bright lemon fruit, as well as very fresh and very crisp. What more can one ask for in $10 wine? Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections

• Paula Kornell Brut NV ($18, purchased, 12%): Quality California bubbly for less than $20 is almost unheard of, so the Kornell has gotten a lot of attention. Look for some sweet stone fruit, maybe some lemon, and lots and lots of bubbles.

• Castillo del Barón Monastrell 2019 ($9, purchased, 14.2%): I’ve been buying this Spanish red for several years, and it has never disappointed. It’s not too big and not too rough, as some can be, and it has not too noticeable tannins and just enough black fruit —  drink with a hearty weeknight dinner or Mother’s Day barbecue. Imported by Europvin

Photo: CarolinaJG, via MorgueFile

More about Mother’s Day wine:
• Mother’s Day wine 2021
• Mother’s Day wine 2020
• Mother’s Day wine 2019
• Expensive wine 151: Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvee Brut
• Wine of the week: Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Petit 2019

Mini-reviews 155: Two Sicilian grillos and two sweet wines

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

pop culture winesReviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. This month, two grillos from Sicily and two sweet wines

• Stemmari Grillo 2020 ($8, purchased, 13%): Simple, not stupid, and professionally made Sicilian white. There’s some citrus (not too tart) and very refreshing. It just doesn’t taste like an Italian wine or like grillo. Imported by Prestige Wine Group

• Corvo Irmana 2020 ($18, sample, 12.5%): Fresh and fruity Sicilian white that doesn’t especially taste like grillo, either, and costs $6 more than it should. Imported by Disaronno International

• Villa Wolf Dry Riesling 2020 ($15, purchased, 11%): Overpriced and not especially dry German white. Some stone fruit; the sweetness hangs around as if the producer couldn’t decide whether to make a focus group wine or a German wine. Imported by Loosen Bros.

• Viticoltori Acquesi Brachetto d’Acqui NV ($18, sample, 65%): This fizzy Italian red is very sweet and almost creamy. Whether you want to pay $18 for this style of wine is up to you. Imported by Mack & Schuhle