Wine of the week: Bonny Doon Picpoul 2021

Would that more winemakers understood the joys of picpoul

The Wine Curmudgeon loves picpoul, an odd white grape grown almost exclusively in southern France. The grape makes fresh, crisp, herbal and tart wines, perfect for hot summer weather like that in Dallas.

This means, of course, that picpoul is not easily found in Dallas (though those of you on the East Coast should have better luck).

Which is where Randall Grahm comes in. He has made this wine since 2012, and even in semi-retirement, his legacy lives on with the Bonny Doon Picpoul 2021 ($15, sample, 11%). It’s another in a long line of fine picpouls from France and California that showcases what the grape can do at a more than fair price.

Picpoul’s meaning is loosely translated as “lip-stinger” because of its acidity. The Bonny Doon is a little softer, thanks to some grenache blanc in the blend, but it’s not oaky chardonnay by any means. Look for some lemon and minerality, and an almost savory character. It’s a light wine in style, but it’s not thin.

Buy a bottle, chill it, and sit on the back porch – with plenty of shade, of course – as summer gets even hotter.