Tag Archives: Chilean wine

Expensive wine 174: Vina Maquis Lien 2019

Vina Maquis Lien bottle
Vina Maquis Lien 2019/$30-$45

Chilean red blend offers interest and value

Carmenere has long been the grape that Chile wants to be known for, and there have have certainly been some successes. But it’s not like you see much of it on the shelf at the local retailer, and when I checked the blog’s unofficial high-end wine shop, there was only one (and it wasn’t one of the famous brands).

So it was with more than a little trepidation that I tasted the Vina Maquis Lien 2019 ($38, sample, 14.1%). Carmenere, for several reasons, does not lend itself easily to winemaking; it can be unripe and tannic, even in blends like this one (46% cabernet franc, 36% cabernet sauvignon, and 18% carmenere).

But the Lien offered much more than I expected — not just in the way it tasted, but in how it was put together. The fruit is quite cabernet franc, which is to say there’s just enough in the way of dark berries to be noticeable, but not so much as to be fruity. There are lots of herbs (from the franc and the carmenere) and a little graphite, while the cabernet sauvignon holds it all together.

In other words, the kind of red wine that will not only age, but change and get more interesting as it does.

Pair this with red meat or sausages; it would be an interesting choice to serve someone who is used to California’s much more fruity and softer red wines.

Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Wine of the week: Quintay Clava Coastal Reserve Pinot Noir 2022

Quintay Clava Coastal Reserve Pinot Noir bottle
Quintay Clava Coastal Reserve Pinot Noir 2022/$12-$17

Chilean pinot noir stands on its own — and tastes like pinot noir

I once wrote a trade piece about trends in pinot noir, and quoted a supermarket-style winemaker who said quality pinot could be made pretty much anywhere in the world, and by blending pretty much any grape with the required 75 percent of pinot noir.

Which explains why pinot noir that costs less than $40 so rarely tastes like pinot noir anymore, but more like a red blend – and sometimes sweet. (That so much pinot that costs more than $40 is also lacking is a post for another day.)

Which is also why I was so pleased to taste the Quintay Clava Coastal Reserve Pinot Noir 2022 ($15, sample, 13%). It’s Chilean pinot noir that tastes like pinot noir, with the understanding that the Chilean style is not the same as the French. And that this is pinot and not a sweet red blend stripped of acidity and tannins.

As my tasting notes ask: “Who knew anyone did this sort of wine any more?”

The Clava differs from France’s red Burgundy in that it tastes fresher and isn’t funky – none of that forest floor or mushroom stuff that pinot lovers geek out about. Instead, it has berry fruit (raspberries?), soft tannins, and just enough acidity. It is simple, but it’s not stupid by any means.

All in all, and even including the price, it’s very well done and highly recommended. Pair this with fall red meats, as well as roast chicken.

Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Mini-reviews 164: The woe to availability edition – and just in time for Christmas

empty grocery store shelves
“The WC wasn’t kidding — nary a bottle to be found.”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four interesting wines, but good luck finding three of them (two of which I bought).

• Vins El Cep Xarello 2020 ($12, purchased, 11.5%): This Spanish white is made with a cava grape, xarello. From my tasting notes: “Surprisingly amazing,” given that xarello doesn’t often make quality still wine. But there is structure, lemon and a bit of apple fruit, and quite clean. Limited availability. by Fine Estates from Spain

• El Tuerto Tempranillo Blanco 2021 ($18, purchased, 13%): This Spanish white, made with the red tempranillo grape, is a floral, almost pretty wine, with a blend of tropical and citrus fruits. Impeccably balanced. Highly recommended, if you can find any. Imported by Classic Wines

• Satellite Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%) I still don’t understand why we’re still hearing that there isn’t any New Zealand sauvignon blanc; this is an older past vintage and it’s still for sale. The wine sits midway between the always fine Spy Valley (which makes it) and all those supermarket Bay wines. So less overtly grapefruit, but still citrusy, but a little softer and more tropical in the middle. Imported by Broadbent Wines

• Gillmore Mariposa 2020 ($14, sample, 14%): Rich and full red blend (half cabernet franc, and the rest merlot and syrah) from Chile. So dark fruit, refined tannins and surprising acidity. Too much syrah for my taste but well made. And, of course, not much for sale in the U.S. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Photo: “Empty grocery store shelves in Austin during the 2021 Texas energy crisis” by Jno.skinner is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.

Expensive wine 163: Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon label
Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon 2019/$65-$90

This Chilean red speaks to tradition and Chile’s history of top-notch wine

Twice in my career, wine experts have told me that Chilean cabernet sauvignon could be the best in the world. It would combine the traditions of France with the technology of California to produce wine that outdid both.

This never really happened. Chalk it up to market trends, consolidation in Chile, or just the fickleness of the wine business. But the Peña family’s Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($80, sample, 14.9%) shows what might have been possible.

This is a top-notch red wine, layered and subtle and complex. And though it’s certainly drinkable now, it’s nowhere near close to its potential; maybe a decade left of aging?

Since it’s more traditional in style, it leans more toward red Bordeaux than Napa cabernet. That means lots of green herbs, a bit of black pepper, and the tannins pushed back but still doing their job. Meanwhile, the acidity is in balance with the barely ripe black fruit, and the alcohol doesn’t get in the way. It’s a surprisingly nuanced wine given that the alcohol is almost 15 percent.

This is holiday prime rib wine, as well as a gift for someone who likes cabernet but understands that it doesn’t always have to rich and fruity. And though I’m not sure an $80 wine can be a value, its price compares favorably to similar labels from France and California.

Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Wine to drink while you’re waiting for the avocado pits to sprout

avocado pits in glasses
Will Dallas water lend terroir to my guacamole?

Because the WC isn’t going to be caught short of guacamole

Yes, an avocado shortage.

But the Wine Curmudgeon is undeterred. I got a couple of shot glasses, a handful of toothpicks, and my last two avocado pits. So, in six months or so, I should have a couple of avocado plants. Now, the shortage may be over by then, but one shouldn’t take any chances with guacamole.

Which leads us to the next step in my urban farming experiment: What wines to drink while I’m waiting for the pits to sprout? Roses and light whites, of course:

• Albamar Chardonnay 2021 ($12, sample, 13.5%): This Chilean white is stunning — clean, crisp, and refreshing, with green apple and pear fruit. The bad news? Only 1,000 cases were imported. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Laurent Miquel Cinsault Syrah Rose 2021 ($11, purchased, 12.5%) One more reason why there’s no need to spend $20 on rose. This French pink has berry fruit, a bit of stoniness, and a clean finish. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons

• Amalaya Esperanza por un Milagro Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 13%): Well-done Argentine-style rose, so more fruit (ripe red berries), less acidity (but not sweet), and more full in the mouth. The little bit of torrontes in the blend is a nice touch to round out the wine. Imported by The Hess Collection

Mini-reviews 158: Cleaning out the wine closet

man and woman drinking wineReviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. This month, four wines after cleaning out the wine closet

• Fancy Flock 2020 ($4, purchased, 13%): Is this Spanish red from Aldi worth $4? Probably not — tart, not especially ripe, and rustic in a bad way. The pandemic has not been kind to Aldi’s wine selection. Imported by Mack & Schule

• Signaterra / Benziger Sunny Slope Red 2016 ($49, sample, 14.8%): I’ve been getting a lot of samples lately that aren’t available. Like you can’t buy them at all. No, I don’t understand that approach, either. This is terrific wine, save for that — fruity, rich. herbal, and with soft tannins.

• Tortoise Creek Mission Grove Pinot Noir 2019 ($12, sample, 14.2%): This red is $15 supermarket-style California pinot noir, with all that means — some heat, not much pinot character, and more rich and fruity than it needs to be.

• Apaltagua Envero Gran Reserva Carmenere 2019 ($16, sample, 14%): Solid, professional carmenere, a red from Chile, with all that means — very herbal (almost bell pepper) and not all that much fruit. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Photo: Couple drinking wine, Pavel Danilyuk via Pexels

Mother’s Day wine 2022

mother's day
“Yes, honey. We’ll buy some of the WC’s Mother’s Day wine suggestions.”

Four suggestions — white, sparkling, rose, and red — for Mother’s Day 2022

The blog’s 16th annual Mother’s Day wine post speaks to how far we’ve come in making it OK to buy cheap wine, despite all the obstacles over the years.  So, as always, the emphasis is on value and quality — and with the reminder that we should buy Mom something she will enjoy and not something we think she should drink.

These Mother’s Day wine suggestions should get you started:

• Calcu Rosé Reserva Especial 2021 ($13, sample, 12.5%): Much more going on with this Chilean pink (a blend of malbec and petit verdot) than it would seem. Crisp, tart, stony, and barely ripe berry fruit. Highly recommended. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Duquesa de Valladolid Verdejo 2020 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): Solid, professional Spanish white from the Rueda region. That means very bright lemon fruit, as well as very fresh and very crisp. What more can one ask for in $10 wine? Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections

• Paula Kornell Brut NV ($18, purchased, 12%): Quality California bubbly for less than $20 is almost unheard of, so the Kornell has gotten a lot of attention. Look for some sweet stone fruit, maybe some lemon, and lots and lots of bubbles.

• Castillo del Barón Monastrell 2019 ($9, purchased, 14.2%): I’ve been buying this Spanish red for several years, and it has never disappointed. It’s not too big and not too rough, as some can be, and it has not too noticeable tannins and just enough black fruit —  drink with a hearty weeknight dinner or Mother’s Day barbecue. Imported by Europvin

Photo: CarolinaJG, via MorgueFile

More about Mother’s Day wine:
• Mother’s Day wine 2021
• Mother’s Day wine 2020
• Mother’s Day wine 2019
• Expensive wine 151: Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvee Brut
• Wine of the week: Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Petit 2019