The Corvezzo Prosecco is a step up from the usual fizzy Italian sparkler
The Wine Curmudgeon has long had an indifferent relationship with Prosecco, the inexpensive Italian sparkling wine. On the one hand, quality has improved greatly over the past decade. On the other, not enough producers seem much interested in improving it past where it is – decently fizzy, sometimes not quite too sweet, and just enough fruit so that it tastes like wine.
So when I find a Prosecco that is more than that, I want to write about it.
Such is the Corvezzo Prosecco Extra Dry NV ($13, sample, 11.5%).
It’s noticeably sweet, but there’s enough acidity in the back so it’s mostly balanced. Again, sweetness itself isn’t necessarily a problem. There is also some sort of citrusy fruit, and the bubbles are very well done — almost creamy, which is rare for a Prosecco.
Just the thing for sipping this weekend, whether to bring in the New Year or for a holiday brunch. One note: You may see this with a variety of names, including an organic designation. As near as I can tell, they’re all the same wine.
“Wow! The WC has found some value in those sparkling wines.”
New Year’s sparkling wine 2021 recommendations, where the focus is on value
This is not a great year for sparkling wine — lots of spot shortages, lots of too high prices thanks to the sport shortages, and so on and so forth. But never fear: the WC’s focus is on value with these four wines. Keep in mind the blog’s annual wine gift guidelines and our sparkling wine primer.
• Lucien Albrecht Crémant Brut NV ($23, sample, 12.5%): This French bubbly was once one of the world’s great wine values, but the price has increased by almost one-half since then. Having said that, it’s still worth buying — a bit soft (apples and stone fruit instead of citrus), but that’s a terroir and grape thing, given the wine is made mostly with pinot blanc in Alsace. Highly recommended. Imported by Foley Family Wines
• Dr. Loosen Riesling Extra Dry Sekt NV ($23, sample, 12%): Very well done riesling sparkling from Germany, with wonderful balance and those tight, delicious bubbles. Quite fresh, with tart green apple fruit and not especially sweet even though it’s extra dry. Imported by Loosen Bros USA
• Bouvet Brut NV ($12, purchased, 12%): Once again, the French Bouvet is a stunning value — zippy mouth feel and lemon apple fruit in a wine that puts other $12 sparklers to shame. Buy a case! Imported by Kobrand
• Bruno Paillard Champagne Brut Premiere Cuvée NV ($56, sample, 12%): Classic Champagne, made in the crisp, fresh, and less yeasty style, and a tremendous value given what Champagne costs. Look for citrus and green apple fruit and maybe some caramel in the back. Imported by Serendipity Imports
But there are several other styles of sparkling made in Italy, with Franciacorta perhaps the best known (and yes, I know most of us still haven’t heard of it). I’ve never quite been able to figure out Franciacorta; why would anyone want to make Champagne-style bubbly with the same grapes used in France in Italy?
Having said that, I’ve tasted some terrific Franciacorta wines over the years. Typically, they’re pricey, though well-made, and they’ve shown up once or twice on the blog. The Bellavista ($35, sample, 12.5%) is also well-made and much less pricey – just the thing for the holidays.
Look for tight, Champagne-style bubbles, the traditional green apple fruit, not too much French-style yeastiness, and a very nice finish and back end that with surprisingly minerality. Considering its price as well as the cost of Champagne, the Bellavista is a tremendous value.
A word about vintages and availability. I tasted the 2008, which is long gone (and no doubt why I got the sample). But the wine is widely available in a variety of vintages, as well as a non-vintage wine. Most should be similar to what I tasted.
“Yes, I know he used this picture last year. But it still does the job, yes? And maybe I can finally get a royalty.”
Four recommendations for Christmas wine 2021
Once again, the blog’s Christmas wine suggestions — whether for a last minute gift, something to drink when you just want a glass, or a holiday dinner. As always, keep our wine gift giving tips in mind — and don’t overlook the blog’s 2021 holiday gift guide (blog subscriptions, hint, hint).
These wines will get you started:
• Domaine Bousquet Brut Rose NV ($13, sample, 12%): This isn’t quite the stunner that the previous version was, but it’s still a fine value sparkling wine. Look for quality bubbles, some red fruit and a bit of citrus. The finish is a bit tart. Imported by Origins Organic Imports
• Domaine du Séminaire Côtes du Rhône 2019 ($17, purchased, 14.5%): This red is a balanced, structured and almost subtle Cote du Rhone from France. That means lots of berry fruit and some spice (licorice?) and maybe even some garrigue. Plus, of course, since we’re hipsters here, it uses concrete tanks. Imported by Martine’s Wines
• Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rosé 2020 ($10, purchased, 12.5%): This is the rose from this French producer, and is almost as impressive. Look for more fruit tan expected (strawberries), plus a touch savory, and almost stony on the back. Imported by Polaner Selections
• Château Boisson Blanc 2018 ($12, purchased, 13%): Dependable white Bordeaux — fresh, lots of citrus, some minerality on the back. It’s not subtle, but it is professionally made and won’t disappoint if you’re looking for something white that tastes French. Imported by Virtuoso Selections
Let’s quote Shakespeare this year, as we give thanks for a holiday that hopefully marks the end of a long journey: “The web of our life is of a mingled yarn, good and ill together.” What better sentiments to keep in mind this year?
• Loess Gruüner Veltliner 2020 ($14/1-liter, sample, 12%): This Austrian white — a varietal that I usually find much overrated — is a Hall of Fame candidate. It’s very fresh and almost spritzy, with lime zest, a hint of oiliness, some pepper, and a juicy finish. Highly recommended; the catch is that it might be difficult to find. Imported by Gonzalez Byass
• Mionetto Rose Extra Dry NV ($12, sample, 11.5%): A fine example of Prosecco — not too sweet and with a surprising amount of berry fruit. The bubbles are a bit soft, but that isn’t a problem. Serve will chilled. Imported by Freixenet Mionetto USA
• Silk & Spice 2018 ($12, sample, 13%): This Portuguese red blend is one more fine value from that country. Yes, there may be a little winemaking going on, but it otherwise tastes as it should — fresh, but Portuguese, with very noticeable acidity in the back and lots of juicy black fruit . Imported by Evaton
• Chateau de Campuget Rose 2020 ($11, purchased, 13%): This French pink has long been one of the WC’s favorites, and the 2020 is equally spot on. It’s fresh and fruity (red berries), with a bit of garrigue, and very French. Well worth the extra couple of dollars compared to the La Viellie. Imported by Dreyfus Ashby
Who knew there was a t-shirt to pair with these wines?
The calls, texts, and emails are crazy – and I don’t even have granite counter tops
The Wine Curmudgeon is not ashamed to admit he knows nothing about real estate. Hence, Dallas’ pandemic-fueled housing boom has left me especially baffled. Yes, my 1950s-style ranch has lots of trees and is more than comfortable, but there are no granite counter tops, double kitchen sinks, or master suites.
Nevertheless, the emails keep coming. The texts keep coming. The phone calls keep coming – in English, an Asian language, and Spanish. There’s even someone who keeps sending postcards with a color photo of my house.
And the message is the same: “We want to buy your home!”
These four wines have made it much easier to keep all that is going on in perspective. The housing market will eventually crash, but I’ll still have a place to live:
• Joseph Drouhin Mâcon-Villages 2019 ($15, purchased, 13%): This is chardonnay from Macon in France’s Burgundy region, and as such offers tremendous value. It’s bright, fresh, and lemony, truly tasting of chardonnay. I drank this one afternoon when I got six texts in a row about the house – so sip, block, delete; sip, block, delete; and repeat, repeat, repeat, and repeat. Imported by Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.
• Capezzana Carmignano Vin Ruspo 2020 ($15, purchased, 12.5%): The Italian Wine Guy has pointed me in the direction of several top-notch Italian roses this summer, including this one. It’s almost pretty – full of berry fruit, sort of rich in the mouth, but also quite fresh. A fine example of this particular Italian style, and just the sort of thing to drink on the porch when the phone is inside the house. Imported by Dallas Terra
• Calcu Pinot Noir Escarlata 2020 ($12, sample, 13%): This Chilean red fits firmly in what passes for pinot noir these days – pleasant and drinkable, even if it isn’t especially varietal. There’s not too much red fruit, some sort of oak thing, and soft tannins. It’s dinner wine with leftovers – meat loan sandwiches, perhaps, and with the phone on mute. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers
• Bouvet Brut Signature NV ($12, purchased, 12%): This French bubbly was outstanding, and not just because I drank it to celebrate a Sunday afternoon bereft of anyone asking about the house. It’s softer than Champagne, since it’s made with chenin blanc. But the bubbles are still tight, there’s a zingy mouth feel, and nicely done lemon apple fruit. Highly recommended. Imported by Kobrand
Yes, you can pair wine with grilled vegetables. It’s one reason that rose exists.
Labor Day wine 2021 — four wines to mark the end of summer
Labor Day marks the traditional end of summer, so why not pour a glass of wine, grill something worth enjoying, and know we’ve made it this far after a not easy past 16 months? Churro, the blog’s associate editor, and the Wine Curmudgeon will be doing just that, though if Dallas’ 100-degree temperatures hold up, it will be indoor grilling. A little chicken marinated in lemon juices, garlic, and olive oil, perhaps?
• Cave de Lugny Les Charmes 2018 ($12, purchased, 13%): This was once a fine, affordable French white wine from Macon in Burgundy, and then the past three years happened. So when I saw it at this price, I snapped it up — should have bought a case. Crisp apple fruit, a little more body than I was expecting, and very clean. Imported by Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits
• Zardetto Prosecco Brut NV ($13, sample, 11%): I’ve never been able to figure out Zardetto’s Italian sparkling wines. Sometimes, they taste like no one cares; at other times, like this, they’re a step up from supermarket Prosecco. This one is hardly sweet at all, has much tighter bubbles, and more citrus fruit (some orange, in fact?). There’s even a little structure. Imported by Winebow
• Mont Gravet Rose 2020 ($10, purchased, 12%): This French pink is one of the blog’s favorite roses. It’s much more Rhone in style this vintage, with more fruit (strawberry?) and a bit less tart. So it’s a fine cheap wine — just in a different way. Imported by Winesellers, Ltd.
• Two Birds One Stone Rouge 2018 ($10, purchased, 12%): I didn’t think this kind of simple, enjoyable French table wine existed any more. It has more more fruit than I would have thought (lots of red berries), but also soft tannins, and balance in the back. This is the kind of wine to buy a case of, pull out when you want wine with dinner, and not worry about. Imported by Wine-Circle
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