Have Portuguese blends become the best value in red wine?

Spend $15 – or even less – and you’ll be more than pleasantly surprised

James McFayden, a long-time friend of the blog and a top wine aficionado, always tried to interest me in Portuguese red wines. I’d taste a couple, shake my head, and move on – too heavy, too old-fashioned, and not especially interesting.

Now, though, it looks more and more like James was right.

The Trump wine tariff pushed French and many Spanish reds out of the value range. Italian wine, though not subject to the tariff, offers great value in some areas (Chianti, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo), but not nearly as much elsewhere.

So Portuguese.

I’ve taken James’ advice during the pandemic and been surprised – actually, probably closer to stunned – at how quality has improved over the past decade. Yes, some reds are still ponderous and dull, but many more are fresher, livelier, and much more intriguing. Best yet, they still taste Portuguese and not like a Spanish or California knockoff. In this, they may offer the best value among red blends in the blog’s price range in the world.

Portuguese reds use many of the same grapes as in Spain, though with different names – tempranillo is known as tinto roriz, for example. But some, like touriga nacional and touriga franca, are especially Portuguese. Most Portuguese reds are blends, and it’s not uncommon to see wines made with three, four, or even five grapes. And, for whatever reason, even the least expensive wines age well and often improve.

In addition, these wines are more available than in the past — I’ve enjoyed these over the past 18 months or so:

• Herdade do Esporão Murcas Minas 2018 ($15, sample, 13%): So well-crafted that the wine is rich and intense, but not so heavy and overwhelming that you have to reach for a glass of water after each sip. There’s red fruit (berries and cherries?) and nary a lick of oak to get in the way. Imported by Now Wine Imports

• Herdade de São Miguel Colheita Seleccionada Tinto 2017 ($15, sample, 13.5%): Stunning, fairly priced and just the ticket for a red meat dinner — dark berries, some plum, some pepper, and rich mouth feel. A little heavy, in the Portuguese style, but something to be appreciated and not avoided. Highly recommended. Imported by Quintessential

• Adega Cooperativa de Borba Alentejo Reserva “The Cork Label” 2015 ($18, sample, 13.5%): Tremendous value, even at this price, offering Portuguese style and terroir, but also with fresh red fruit, some green herbs, surprising brightness, and soft tannins. Highly recommended. Imported by L&B Beverage

• Broadbent Douro Red 2019 ($13, purchased, 13%): Quality wine, but in a more traditional style so that it needs food. Lots of dark fruit (blackberries? cherries?) and maybe even some plum. Yes, it’s heavy-ish in the mouth, but not in an unpleasant way. Imported by Broadbent Selections

• Aplanta Red Blend 2019 ($11, purchased, 13.5%): This blend offers value and Portuguese style, so fresh red fruit and a little of the Portuguese heaviness in the mouth. If the 2018 is any indication, the wine will age gracefully, getting softer and becoming more enjoyable. Needs food. Imported by Ole & Obrigador

• Ferreirinha Papa Figos Red 2018 ($13, sample, 13.5%): Ignore the cute birds on the label and focus on the wine — lots of red fruit, but so much that it’s the only thing going on. Surprisingly balanced. Let it sit open for 20 minutes before drinking. Needs food. Imported by Evaton