Category:Wine reviews

Expensive wine 172: 10000 Hours Cabernet Sauvignon 2018

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

10000 Hours Cabernet Sauvignon bottle
10000 Hours Cabernet Sauvignon 2018/$27-$40

Washington state red is a classic example of the region’s approach

The wine business has not been kind to Washington state over the past several years, with the recent Ste. Michelle Wine Estates production cuts just one more kick in the teeth. But none of this has anything to do with Washington state wine quality, as the 10000 Hours Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates.

We’ve reviewed several 10000 Hours wines on the blog, and not because they were samples. As regular readers know, too many of the samples I get tend to make me stare skyward existentially.

But not in this case. The 10000 Hours Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($32, sample, 14.5%) is classic Washington state cabernet sauvignon, which means a bit eucalyptus aroma and a very rich and very very full wine that needs food.

But, as with the best of these kinds of wines, it’s not hot despite the high alcohol, there isn’t too much vanilla or too much oak, and it’s eminently balanced. The tasting notes talk about some coffee flavors, and that may be there, but there is certainly lots and lots of deep red fruit. The age helped to make the wine rounder and more agreeable (and there is still a fair amount of this wine on store shelves, despite the age).

This is a wine to to think about when as the weather cools (which may actually be happening here). Serve it with red meat and let it open for a bit before drinking.

Wine of the week: Two Vinos de Arganza Mencias

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Vinos de Arganza wine bottle and glass
This is one of the wines, anyway.

Once again, wine availability is a wonderful thing

These wines are made by the same Spanish producer from the same mencia grape and come from the same vintage and the same region. They’re mostly the same price and they taste mostly the same.

In this, they’re both fine $10 red wines and worthy of the blog. My question: Why are they both on sale at the same time from the same retailer?

Chalk it up to the mysteries of wine availability.

Because, like the Rapitala Grillo a couple of weeks ago, none of this makes much sense otherwise. Just know there is a lot of wine on the market (“Shh, don’t call it a glut”), and producers, importers, wholesalers, and retailers are doing all they can to sell it.

Hence, the Arganza Flavium Premium 2020 ($10, purchased, 13%) and the Arganza Flavium Seleccion ($10, purchased, 13%).

The Premium is the more interesting of the two — earthy, some tart berry fruit, and just enough tannins to have some, but not enough to get the way. Call it highly recommended and a candidate for next year’s Hall of Fame. The Seleccion isn’t as deep or as layered as the Premium, but still a fine bottle of $10 Spanish red wine. There’s a little smokiness on the back that I didn’t expect; otherwise, some not too ripe berry fruit and even some herbs.

So, like the Rapitala Grillo, buy either or both if you can find them. Just don’t try to figure out why all of this is going on. Trust me — it’s not worth it.

Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

Labor Day wine 2023

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

people sitting in front of table talking and eating
“I told you the WC’s wine recommendations were super good.”

Enjoy these four bottles for Labor Day wine 2023

Labor Day traditionally marks the end of the summer in the U.S., which will be most welcome this year. Even the WC, who vowed never to shovel snow again, was getting overwhelmed by 105-degree temperatures. And then some more. And then some more.

So bring on fall, cooler weather, some chilled reds, and relaxing on a shaded place on the porch. And maybe some lemon roasted chicken?

These four bottles will give you a start — and don’t forget the blog’s porch wine guidelines:

• Jolie Folle Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($13/1-liter, purchased, 11.5%): This French white is more New Zealand in style this vintage, with grapefruit instead of lime and less minerality. But it’s still a fine value. Imported by T. Elenteny Imports

• Umani Ronchi Podere 2021  ($13, purchased, 13%): A surprisingly fresh and berryish Italian red from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, though it’s not as light as some. But that doesn’t mean it can’t be chilled slightly and served with bacon cheeseburgers.  Imported by Vineyard Brands

• Castle Rock Rose 2022 ($12, sample, 13%): A California pink that is crisp, fresh, and enjoyable — and dry, dry, dry. Look for rose petals on the nose (honest), plus barely ripe berry fruit and a very pleasant stony finish. I’m told it’s available, so its Wine-Searcher entry is probably wrong.

• Campo Viejo Cava Brut Rose NV ($11, purchased, 11.5%): This Spanish bubbly is made with trepat, which is a good thing. But it’s a little less crisp than it could be and it’s not quite up to the standards of what great cheap Cava once was. But it has nice wild berry fruit with decent bubbles, so it will do. Imported by Pernod Richard USA

Photo: Priscillia Du Preez on Unsplash

More about Labor Day wine:
• Labor Day wine 2022
• Labor Day wine 2021
• Labor Day wine 2020
• Wine of the week: Zestos Blanco 2021

Wine of the week: Charles & Charles Rose 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Quality wins out, year after year

Charles & Charles rose bottle
Charles & Charles Rose 2022/$9-$16

Yes, the wine business makes me crazy. And then I get to taste a terrific cheap wine that reminds me why it’s worth all the aggravation.

In this case, it’s the Charles & Charles Rose 2022 ($12, sample, 11.5%). This pink from Washington state is terrific every vintage, doesn’t cost a lot of money, can be found in some supermarkets, and my Mom likes it. What more do we want from wine?

The blend for the 2022 is more typical of a rose than usual – about one-half syrah, one-third grenache, and the rest mourvedre. This puts it squarely in the Provencal style camp, though – as the tasting notes point out – it’s a lot cooler in Washington state.

That combination makes the wine just enough different from the 2021 so that any wine geeks paying attention can taste it and wonder how Charles & Charles does it at this price. It’s Provencal-like with barely ripe berry fruit, but there is an almost orange thing in the middle and a sort of savory finish. So yes, buy a case and keep it handy for Labor Day weekend.

Highly recommended and certain to return to the Hall of Fame next year, and perhaps show up on the short list for the 2024 Turner cheap wine award. Surprisingly – or not, given what’s going on with wine these days – there is still a fair amount of 2021 left. So don’t be afraid to get a bottle of each and do your own tasting. Why should the geeks have all the fun?

 

Mini-reviews 172: Four red wines – sort of

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

man showing woman a bottle of wine
“This isn’t one of those wines the WC doesn’t like, is it?”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four reds – sort of.

• Gillmore Mariposa 2021 ($16, sample, 13%): This wine geek favorite, made with the Chilean equivalent of the mission grape, is much improved this vintage. There’s more cherry fruit, less stemminess, and more balance. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Château Pascaud 2020 ($10, purchased, 14.5%): This French red blend is described as a “round wine with great aromatic purity and smoothness on the palate.” Hardly. Hot and unpleasant. Imported by Europvin USA

• Trivento Malbec Reserve 2021 ($11, sample, 13%) The PR person reassured me this wildly popular Argentine red had not been sweetened, but it sure tasted sugared up. It’s not necessarily bad, but if I wanted sweet wine, I’d buy sweet wine.

• Bodega Aniello Blanco de Pinot Noir 2021 ($18, sample, 14%): White pinot noir – so it’s fermented without the skins — that tastes sort of like the base for a sparkling wine. That means some red fruit and a little sweetness. Interesting, but very geeky. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Wine of the week: Tenuta Rapitala Grillo

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Tenuta Rapitalà Grillo Sicilia Viviri label
Tenuta Rapitala Grillo /Pricing? Vintage? Who knows?

Wine availability is a wonderful thing, isn’t it?

You’ll notice there’s no vintage for the Rapitala Grillo in the headline for this post. That’s because this Sicilian white has three vintages currently available – which is a lot, even for the wine business.

Ain’t availability a wonderful thing?

I tasted the 2020, which I bought for $12 at the end of last year. I bought another bottle at the end of winter, same vintage, but it cost $14. And that’s not the end of the fun: Wine-searcher reports that the 2021 and 2022 can cost as much as $17.

Huh?

Yes, I know about pandemic supply chain issues and the war in Ukraine and glass bottle inflation. But how did a simple – albeit delicious – white wine made by the tanker load that seems to be widely available increase in price by almost 50 percent in less than a year? And with three vintages on store shelves?

Is it any wonder I worry about the future of the wine business?

Hence, this post. Look for the Rapitala Grillo, and buy it — any of the three vintages should be fine — if you can find it for less than $13 or $14. The WC has long appreciated the grillo grape, and this is a fine effort — well-made and interesting, since it’s more subtle and rounder than others, which is complemented with some almond and stone fruit.

Jut don’t try to figure out availability and pricing. It will make your head hurt – something I know first hand.

Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons

Wine to drink when it’s 107 degrees

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

tire tracks in desert soil
The WC’s backyard doesn’t look like this — yet.

Because even the WC — who never wants to shovel snow again — is almost worn out

Dallas’ record heat this summer (including a brutal weekend) has been wearing, so I keep telling myself that at least I’m not in Phoenix and that I put up with this because I never want to go through a Chicago winter again. So, as long as the Texas electricity grid holds out, I’m OK.

Meanwhile, three wines to drink while I’m waiting for fall:

• Bonny Doon Vineyard Vin Gris de Cigare 2022 ($18, sample, 13.6%): Prices for this are all over the place — as little as $12.  This year’s vintage isn’t as stony and as French-like as in the past, so more ripish strawberry fruit and richer in the mouth.

• Bodegas La Cana Albarino 2021 ($16, purchased, 13%) Professional and competent Spanish albarino that’s more savory than fruity and almost salty. Some floral aroma and light citrus and very clean on the back. Imported Fine Estates from Spain

• Apaltagua Pinot Noir Reserva 2019 ($14, sample, 13.5%): Well-made and pinot noir-like Chilean effort. Soft tannins, reserved berry fruit, and balanced. Not complex, but that’s not the goal here. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Photo: Dennis Kralik via Pexels

More wine to drink. …
• … when you’ve had quite enough of spam phone calls
• … when you’re waiting for an ice storm
• … when everyone (and it does seem like everyone) wants to buy your house