Category:Wine reviews

Expensive wine 107: L’Enclos de Carbonnieux Blanc 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

L'Enclos de Carbonnieux Blanc label
L’Enclos de Carbonnieux Blanc 2020/$23-$30

When it’s worth paying more than $10 for white Bordeaux

One of the most difficult parts of this job is not letting my prejudices and preconceptions about wines and wine styles that I don’t like get in the way of an honest assessment of what I taste. I do a decent job of that for merlot, but not as good for rose (or, as one tasting note for a $30 French pink said, “No, this isn’t three times better than the Bieler.”)

Hence, my biggest problem with this wine is that I was hamstrung by the idea that white Bordeaux doesn’t need to cost more than $10 (save for Chateau d’Yquem, of course). Which, if I had allowed that attitude to get in the way, would have meant I missed a fine wine.

Because the L’Enclos de Carbonnieux Blanc 2020 ($26, purchased, 13%) is a fine wine and well worth drinking: “Classic white Bordeaux — green, flinty, a bit of richness from the semillon,” said my tasting notes.

So, yes, it’s probably twice as good as the $10 or $12 white blends from that region in France that I drink all the time. It’s certainly more complex; there’s a lot more going on than the one-note citrus that so many $10 and $12 and even $15 white Bordeaux opt for these days. That means some herbal notes, as well as an almost chalky minerality.

It’s also worth noting that this is the second label from a top white Bordeaux producer, Chateau Carbonnieux, whose wines run around $50. Which, in the way wine works today, makes the L’Enclos a value.

Highly recommended; break out the poulet roti, or, if you’re feeling Hemingway-esque, chilled oysters.

Imported by Misa Imports

Wine of the week: La Vieille Ferme Rose 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

La Vieille Ferme Rose bottle
La Vieille Ferme Rose 2022/$7-$12

Once again, my mom’s rooster wine reminds us that great wine doesn’t require lots of money

Do a quick Google search, and there are lots of nasty things that show up about the La Vieille Ferme rose, including a demeaning score or two on Cellar Tracker, the blog’s unofficial wine inventory app.

Is it any wonder I worry about the future of the wine business?

When wine drinkers, wine critics, and wine geeks can’t see the value – let alone the joy – in a terrific $8 French rose, then we’ve lost one of the things that makes wine so much fun.

So nuts to them, and let the WC recount why this vintage of the La Vieille Ferme Rose ($8, purchased, 13%) is once again one of the great cheap bottles on the market today. The wine, a blend of cinsault, grenache, and syrah, is a touch fruitier this year (red berries) than last year, but there is also an almost orangish citrus note and even some garrigue (the French term for an herbal character some roses pick up). And I love this bit from the producer’s tasting notes: “Well balanced by a slight bitterness on the finish. …” Now that’s $8 winemaking.

Highly recommended, as always, as well as my mom’s favorite wine; it’s sure to take its place in the Hall of Fame next year. My only regret? That the no one in Dallas sells this in the 3-liter box, which would allow me to save even more money – as well as to sip and smile and feel just a little sorry for everyone who thinks the wine isn’t worth drinking.

Imported by Vineyard Brands

Porch wine 2023: Red and white

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

woman relaxing in chair
“The only thing missing is a WC wine suggestion.”

A red and three whites for summer porch sipping

This is the second of two parts focusing on porch wine — lighter wines, red and white (and of course, rose), that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. Today, Part II: reds and whites. Part I: Roses.

This is the second installment of this year’s porch wine post; I needed two parts because there is a surprising amount of quality cheap wine for porch sitting and drinking (wine glut!). Porch wine, as we have discussed before, is about lighter wines, red, white, and pink, that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. The idea with a porch wine is to drink something that won’t make the sweat bead on your forehead.

This red and thee whites are well worth trying:

• Frico Bianco 2020 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): More wine glut evidence, given that this vintage of the Italian white blend – so well-priced and so enjoyable – is still on store shelves. Some citrus, some spice, almost some almond. Imported by USA Wine West

• Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Red 2021 ($10, purchased, 14%): South African red blend is spot on yet again, though richer and with more syrah character. Yes, it means it has that Rhone-ish bacon fat thing. But not heavy, not cloying, and not hot. Highly recommended. Imported by Vineyard Brands

• Chereau-Carre Muscadet 2021 ($12, purchased, 12%): A delightful French white from the Muscadet region — almost creamy, with fresh red apple and even a bit of spice. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

• Broadbent Dão 2020 ($13, sample, 13%): Pleasant and enjoyable Portuguese white blend (if a bit more rich in the mouth than many would expect). Stone fruit, maybe some tropical and a little spice. Imported by Broadbent Selections

Photo: “Laid Back” by downing.amanda is licensed under CC BY 2.0.

Porch wine 2023: Roses

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Two women sitting on chairs on a prch
“You know the only thing we’re missing?” “I know — the WC’s porch wine suggestions.”

Four roses for summer porch sipping

This is the first of two parts focusing on porch wine — lighter wines, red and white (and of course, rose), that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. Today, part I: Roses, and Monday, Part II: reds and whites.

This year’s porch wine installment comes in two parts, since I’ve found – and I know this is difficult to believe – lots of quality cheap wine for porch sitting and drinking. Porch wine, as we have discussed before, is about lighter wines, red, white, and pink, that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. The idea with a porch wine is to drink something that won’t make the sweat bead on your forehead.

These four roses are well worth trying:

• Val de Loire Touraine Vive La Liore! Rose NV ($12/1-liter, purchased, 12%): I wanted to dislike this wine for a couple of reasons – it’s a Whole Foods private label and it’s non-vintage, which is not the best way to do rose. So what do I know? It’s nicely done – gamay grape in the blend, so some barely ripe raspberries and a long, biggish sort of finish. Imported by Dropping Wines

• M. Chapoutier Rose Belleruche 2021 ($10, purchased, 13%): This rose from this producer is almost always well-made; the 2021 has held up well — dry, stony, and barely ripe red berries. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners

• Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 12.5%): The Guilhem wines, as a reader reminded me recently, are top-notch values. This pink has strawberry and red fruit, is full in the mouth, and quite refreshing. Imported by Polaner Selections

• Calcu Gran Reserva Rose 2022 ($15, sample, 12.5%): Professional pink blend (65 percent malbec, 35 percent petit verdot) from Chile that offers something between Provencal and California. So some berry fruit, but not too much, and a very nice stony finish. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

More about porch wine:
• Memorial Day and rose 2023
• Update: Porch wine for the long, hot summer
• Wine of the week: Vinho verde 2023

Photo: “Lake Lodge, visitors sitting in rocking chairs on the porch” by YellowstoneNPS is marked with Public Domain Mark 1.0.

Wine of the week: Chateau Fage Blanc 2021

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Chateau Fage Blanc bottle
Chateau Fage Blanc 2021/$9-$13

This French white Bordeaux is cheap wine of the finest caliber

The best thing to know about this white Bordeaux blend, which is as well-made a cheap wine of this style that I’ve tasted in years? It’s widely available.

Yep – 25 retailers listed in the free version of Wine-Searcher (and 150 listed in the paid). In other words, it’s buy a case time.

So how about the rest of the good stuff for the Château Fage Blanc 2021 ($12, purchased, 12.5%)? Because it does things at this price that don’t happen much any more.

• It’s a blend of 40 percent sauvignon blanc and 60 percent semillon; typically, these wines have mostly sauvignon blanc with a bit of semillon.

• Even so, it’s fresh and crisp, But it’s not a one-note, New Zealand style sauvignon blanc, which is – again – typical of these wines at this price.

• The semillion adds body and lift, balancing the crispness of the sauvignon blanc. That means some citrus, but also an almost floral, tropical middle from the semillion.

Highly recommended, and a candidate for Hall of Fame and the 2024 Turner award as cheap wine of the year.

Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

Fourth of July wine 2023

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

super hero miniatures
Yes, using this picture again — how could I not, what with superheroes battling premiumization?

Fourth of July wine 2023: Four bottles offering value and quality for Independence Day

It will be a hot Fourth o July in Dallas this year, and not just because of the holiday. We’re in one of our 100 degree stretches as I write this. So enjoy these selections, as well as the blog’s summer and porch wine guidelines in mind since it’s so hot.

These four wines will get you started:

• Castello di Gabbiano Chianti 2020 ($8, purchased, 13%): Old-fashioned Italian red —  both in style and price — that is heavy in the mouth with sour cherry fruit and dry tannins? What more does one need for smoking pork? (And a tip o’ the WC’s fedora to Frankie Celenza, who reminded me about this wine. Imported by TWE Imports

• Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($13, purchased, 13%): if you can find this French sauvignon blanc for $10 or $12, buy a case. It’s a classic everyday wine — crisp, fresh, and stony. Highly recommended. Imported by Virtuoso Selections

• Cote Mas Aurore Rose 2021 ($9/1-liter, purchased, 12.5%): This French pink is past inconsistent; some vintages taste like bad red wine, and some are as terrific as this one. Provencal in style, so barely ripe berries, stony, and crisp. Highly recommended. Imported by Taub Family Selections

• Charles de Fère Cuvée Jean Louise NV ($9, purchased, 11%): Simple, enjoyable French charmat bubbly that offers tremendous value. Given the silly prices for even the most ordinary sparkling wine, this is a tremendous value. Decent bubbles, some stone fruit and lemon. Imported by Boisset America

Photo: TFNY18_074c” by BAS Photog is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0.

More Fourth of July wine:
• Fourth of July wine 2022
• Fourth of July wine 2021
• Fourth of July wine 2020
• Wine of the week: Bieler Père et Fils Rose 2022

Wine of the week: Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rouge 2021

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rouge bottle
Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rouge 2021/$9-$15

This French red blend illustrates what weeknight dinner wine should be

Moulin de Gassac makes a red, white, and rose. All are especially impressive — $10 or so, varietally correct, and decent availability

The red, though, has always impressed me the most. That’s because it does something seldom seen in red wines at this price – it tastes like it’s supposed to taste.

Consider the 2021 vintage ($12, purchased, 13%): It’s a Rhone-style blend from southern France (50 percent syrah, 30 percent grenache, and 20 percent carignan), but it’s not too jammy or too soft despite all that syrah and grenache. Even more impressive: The three wines are made for export, and could have tried to appeal to the so-called American palate. Instead, they taste like wine.

That means the red has some spice, some berry fruit, and soft tannins — all in balance. It’s dry and not smoooth; rather, it’s the kind of wine for a summer barbecue (or a pot roast in the winter). In this, it’s weeknight dinner wine, a concept Europeans have understood for more than a century but which Americans have always struggled with.

Highly recommended, and a candidate for the 2024 Turner award for cheap wine of the year.

Imported by Palomar Imports