This is the second of two parts focusing on porch wine — lighter wines, red and white (and of course, rose), that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. Today, Part II: reds and whites. Part I: Roses.
This is the second installment of this year’s porch wine post; I needed two parts because there is a surprising amount of quality cheap wine for porch sitting and drinking (wine glut!). Porch wine, as we have discussed before, is about lighter wines, red, white, and pink, that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. The idea with a porch wine is to drink something that won’t make the sweat bead on your forehead.
This red and thee whites are well worth trying:
• Frico Bianco 2020 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): More wine glut evidence, given that this vintage of the Italian white blend – so well-priced and so enjoyable – is still on store shelves. Some citrus, some spice, almost some almond. Imported by USA Wine West
• Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Red 2021 ($10, purchased, 14%): South African red blend is spot on yet again, though richer and with more syrah character. Yes, it means it has that Rhone-ish bacon fat thing. But not heavy, not cloying, and not hot. Highly recommended. Imported by Vineyard Brands
• Chereau-Carre Muscadet 2021 ($12, purchased, 12%): A delightful French white from the Muscadet region — almost creamy, with fresh red apple and even a bit of spice. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection
• Broadbent Dão 2020 ($13, sample, 13%): Pleasant and enjoyable Portuguese white blend (if a bit more rich in the mouth than many would expect). Stone fruit, maybe some tropical and a little spice. Imported by Broadbent Selections
“You know the only thing we’re missing?” “I know — the WC’s porch wine suggestions.”
Four roses for summer porch sipping
This is the first of two parts focusing on porch wine — lighter wines, red and white (and of course, rose), that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. Today, part I: Roses, and Monday, Part II: reds and whites.
This year’s porch wine installment comes in two parts, since I’ve found – and I know this is difficult to believe – lots of quality cheap wine for porch sitting and drinking. Porch wine, as we have discussed before, is about lighter wines, red, white, and pink, that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. The idea with a porch wine is to drink something that won’t make the sweat bead on your forehead.
These four roses are well worth trying:
• Val de Loire Touraine Vive La Liore! Rose NV ($12/1-liter, purchased, 12%): I wanted to dislike this wine for a couple of reasons – it’s a Whole Foods private label and it’s non-vintage, which is not the best way to do rose. So what do I know? It’s nicely done – gamay grape in the blend, so some barely ripe raspberries and a long, biggish sort of finish. Imported by Dropping Wines
• M. Chapoutier Rose Belleruche 2021 ($10, purchased, 13%): This rose from this producer is almost always well-made; the 2021 has held up well — dry, stony, and barely ripe red berries. Imported by Folio Fine Wine Partners
• Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 12.5%): The Guilhem wines, as a reader reminded me recently, are top-notch values. This pink has strawberry and red fruit, is full in the mouth, and quite refreshing. Imported by Polaner Selections
• Calcu Gran Reserva Rose 2022 ($15, sample, 12.5%): Professional pink blend (65 percent malbec, 35 percent petit verdot) from Chile that offers something between Provencal and California. So some berry fruit, but not too much, and a very nice stony finish. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers
“We can vouch for the WC’s excellent taste in rose.”
The blog’s 16th annual Memorial Day and rose celebration, in which we celebrate cheap, quality pink wine
The good news as we celebrate the blog’s 16th annual Memorial Day and rose extravaganza is that there is lots and lots of quality, inexpensive dry rose on store shelves. The bad news? Prices are higher, though not much more than last year. Plus, they’re all over the place, with some retailers charging twice as much as others for the same wine.
And perhaps the most interesting news? There may be a rose glut, with lots of older vintages — some as old as 2016 and 2017 — lurking in wait for unsuspecting wine drinkers. We’ve written about a potential wine glut before, and this is just another indication that lots of old wine is taking up space in warehouses. Know that most roses that are more than a couple of years old aren’t worth drinking, so buy that 2018 for $5 at your own risk. Hence, the the blog’s rose primer.
The roses here are each highly recommended, and tomorrow’s post will feature six more roses worth writing about. Many are 2021s; the 2022s have been slow to arrive. In fact, I still haven’t tasted blog favorites, Zestos, Charles & Charles, Scaia and La Vieille Ferme.
This year’s roses:
• Tenuta Fanti Rosato 2021 ($11, purchased, 13.5%): This Italian pink, made with sangiovese, was stunning — savory, yet almost fruit punch-like, in the Italian style that almost no one else does. Limited availability. Imported by Massanois
• Mont Gravet Rose 2022 ($10, sample, 12.5%): I tasted this French blog favorite before it was released to retail and it needed more time in the bottle. Having said that, it should evolve into what it always is — clean, bright Provencal-style rose (barely ripe berry fruit, minerality). There also a 3-liter box, non-vintage ($22, 12%), and it needs time, too. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.
• Funckenhausen Dry Rose 2022 ($16/1-liter, sample, 13%): Another stellar effort from a small Argentine producers — cherry fruit, but not sweet, clean, crisp, and all a rose should be. And a liter! Imported by Global Vineyard Importers
• Chateau Fage Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 13%): Unpretentious and professional French rose, made with cabernet franc, that is a bit heavier and fuller than a Provencal wine. The cab franc fruit (dark berries) shows through. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection
• La Chapelle du Seuil Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 13%): Provencal rose for $10. A little more ripe, so the strawberry fruit is more noticeable, but also clean, some minerality, and a hint of garrigue. Imported by Skurnik Wines
• Domaine du Tariquet Rose 2021 ($12, sample, 11%): This French effort may be difficult to find, and prices are all over the place. But it’s savory and fruity, with a wonderful, almost dark finish (and the blend includes tannat). How do they do it? Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons
Once again, why porch wine matters — and bring the ice cubes
I usually don’t update the porch wine post every year, but this year is special — and not just because of the 100-plus temperatures in Dallas. And those of you in Dallas who are angry at the blog’s unofficial weather forecaster — don’t you have something better to do?
Rather, I’m updating the post this year because Esther Mobley of the San Francisco Chronicle, of the most important members of the Winestream Media, says it’s OK to put ice cubes in your wine.
Welcome to the fight, Esther.
Porch wine is about lighter wines, red and white (and of course, rose), that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. The idea with a porch wine is to drink something that won’t make the sweat bead on your forehead. The blog’s original porch post is here, and there is even a porch wine terms post.
And keep the ice cubes handy. These four wines will get you started:
• Zestos Blanco 2020 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): This Spanish white is one of the all-time great cheap wines, and the 2020 vintage may be the best ever — subtle and interesting, with less tart white fruit and maybe even some spice. Sure to make the shortlist for the 2022 Cheap Wine of the Year. Highly recommended. Imported by Ole & Obrigador
• Librandi Segno Bianco 2020 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): Well-made, varietally correct Italian white that uses the little known greco bianco grape. That means some lemon fruit as well as very clean and very crisp, if a bit thin. Imported by Winebow
• Château Laulerie Bergerac Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 12%): Yummy cabernet sauvignon-based rose from southern France, with a little merlot to round it out. Almost raspberry fruit, some garrigue, and long on the finish, almost stony. Highly recommended. Imported by Skurnik Wines
• Brunellesco Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2019 ($10, purchased, 12%): This Italian red is much more savory and herbal than other wines from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo region. The cherry fruit isn’t the only selling point. Highly recommended. Imported by Monsieur Tonton Selections
Bring on the pink — it’s the WC’s rose season preview..
The blog’s 15th annual Memorial Day and rose celebration — bring on the pink, because we need value and quality more than ever
Let’s gloss over the bad rose news as the blog celebrates its 15th annual Memorial Day rose extravaganza. Forget about the trumped up $18 pinks, both domestic and foreign, that try to get by on a label aimed at younger wine drinkers, because they’re supposed to be too stupid to know what rose is. And don’t worry about the continuing and all too depressing trend of calling a rose dry when it is noticeably sweet. These wines are mostly domestic, but even some imports think this is smart business.
Instead, let’s focus on yet another vintage of delicious and affordable roses — maybe not quite as affordable as in past years (tariff and pandemic), but still not the $20 that the wine business considers the cutoff for “affordable.” (Honestly. They told us that at a seminar last week — $60 is expensive, but $20 is affordable.)
In fact, I tasted so many worthy roses this year that picking which to include today and tomorrow was more difficult than ever. Who would have expected that? Missing are blog favorites Scaia and Mont Gravet; have not seen the 2021 versions yet. And don’t forget the blog’s rose primer and the rose category (from the drop down menu on the lower right), which lists 15 years of rose reviews.
Today, six standout roses – each highly recommended. Tomorrow, six more roses worth writing about:
• Bielet Pere et Fils Sabine Rose 2021 ($13, sample, 12.5%): Prices are all over the place once again for this legendary French pink. Can you believe $18 at one national retailer? This vintage has a touch more fresh berry fruit (raspberry?), but otherwise all one can expect from a rose at this price — or costing twice as much. Imported by Bieler et Fils
• Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel 2021 ($15, sample, 13.9%): Rich, full, and balanced, with wonderful dark berry fruit from the zinfandel. This is not a razor-sharp, Provence style rose; rather, it’s much more California in style, and much welcome for that reason.
• Hecht & Bannier Rose 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%): I’m not the biggest fan of the Hecht, but the 2020 is a step up — more Provencal in style. That means almost stony, with wild strawberry fruit, and lots of garrigue. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons
• Zestos Rosado 2021 ($12, purchased, 12,5%): Maybe the best vintage ever of this always wonderful Spanish pink, taking garnacha where I didn’t think it could go. Almost an orange aroma, with subtle, barely ripe berry fruit, and stony finish that seems to go on forever. Imported by Ole & Obrigado
• Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 12.5%): This French pink is a tremendous value — strawberry and cherry fruit, full in the mouth, and quite refreshing. Imported by Polaner Selections
• Charles & Charles Rose 2021 ($12, sample, 12.5%): Fruitier this year, with an almost citrus zest aroma, followed with not quite tart cherry fruit. If the Sabine (made by one of the Charles’ here) is relatively consistent vintage to vintage, this Washington state pink changes every year. Which is a good thing.
“I found the porch — you bring the wine. What does the WC suggest?”
With record temperatures in much of the country this summer, it’s time to update the blog’s porch wine post
Over the years, I’ve gotten less than favorable comments about the idea of porch wine — because, of course, wine is entirely too serious for porch sipping. Sigh. Is it any wonder I worry about the future of the wine business?
Which is just more wine snobbery. Why should the pleasure of a shaded porch and the hint of a cool breeze be reserved for iced tea, beer, and whatever else is currently popular? I find the idea of porch wine especially relevant this summer, what with the record-breaking heat in much of the country, the pandemic, and all of the other foolishness we have had to endure. So, this porch wine update.
So know this about porch wine: It’s about lighter wines, red and white (and of course, rose), that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. The idea with a porch wine is to drink something that won’t make the sweat bead on your forehead. The blog’s original porch post is here, and there is even a porch wine terms post.
And it’s OK to add an ice cube. Honest.
• The Beachhouse Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($10, purchased, 13%): This white is a simple, not too grapefruit-y South African sauvignon blanc, which has an almost pleasant bitterness in the back. The minute I tasted it, I knew it was perfect for this post. Imported by Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits
• Moillard Chablis Coquillage 2018 ($25, purchased, 13%): Yes, this is expensive (though without the Trump tariff, the price may come down). But it’s also a perfect porch wine — well-made chardonnay from the Chablis region of France that is flinty, lemony, crisp. Imported by Advantage International
• Stemmari Sicilia Rose 2019 ($8, purchased, 12%): There’s nothing especially Italian about this pink; it’s just well-made rose in the international style — think Washington state. That means fresh, fruity (strawberry), and clean, but not much esle. Still, it is more than enjoyable. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports
• Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet 2019 ($16, purchased, 12%): Well-executed French white (made with the underrated melon de bourgogne grape) that is round in the mouth, but not soft. There’s a bit of structure and apple and pear fruit. Imported by LDM Wines
“Let’s see — which of these roses that the WC likes should I buy?”
The blog’s 14th annual Memorial Day and rose celebration reminds us how wonderful pink wine is — and how little it needs to cost
Yes, there’s lots of bad pink wine news as the blog celebrates its 14th annual Memorial Day rose extravaganza — too many so called dry roses that are actually sweet, too many $20 roses that aren’t appreciably better than $10 roses, and the lingering effects of the Trump wine tariff, which means higher prices and limited availability.
But who cares? Many of us can drink rose with our friends and family this weekend for the first time in more than a year, as the pandemic begins to loosen its grip. And the tariff, thanks to enlightened leadership in the U.S. and EU, looks like it will end sooner rather than later.
So nuts to the bad stuff, and let’s drink great, cheap, delicious — and honest — rose. And that means not sweet, not high in alcohol and not tannic. And don’t forget the blog’s rose primer and the rose category (from the dropdown menu on the lower right), which lists 14 years of rose reviews.
One note: I have not been to find the 2020 vintages of the Spanish Zestos and the French La Viellie Ferme and Mont Gravet roses, all of which are always worth buying. However, there is still lots of the 2019s, and they’re still top-notch.
Today, six standout roses – each highly recommended. Tomorrow, five more roses worth writing about:
• Bielet Pere et Fils Sabine Rose 2020 ($13, sample, 12.5%): Prices are all over the place for this French pink, which is one of the world’s best every year — as little as $10 or $11 to as much as $16 or $17. The 2020 is terrific again — pleasantly tart strawberry fruit and wonderfully fresh, if not quite what the 2019 was (maybe missing some garrigue?). Talk about setting a high bar. Imported by Bieler et Fils
• Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel 2020 ($13, sample, 13.7%): Each year, Pedroncelli turns out a rose that shows off a more traditional California style. That means heavier, but not heavy, and darker, deeper fruit (red berries and cherry), but still long and clean. So different and interesting and well worth buying.
• Faisao Vinho Verde Rose NV ($10/1 liter, purchased, 10.5%): How can vinho verde — and pink vinho at that — be made so well and taste like wine? A little spritzy, something akin to lemon strawberry fruit, and not so sweet you’d notice it if you weren’t looking for it. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.
• LaValentina Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Rose 2019 ($12, purchased, 13,5%): The Italian Wine Guy and I tasted a quite delicious $20 rose from the same region in Italy, which made me appreciate this one that much more. Fruity (cherries?) and almost savory. A fine example of a not too common style. Imported by Dallas Terra
• Apaltagua Carmenere Rose 2020 ($13, sample, 13.5%): This is a Chilean rose, made with a uniquely Chilean grape, but that resembles classic Spanish rose. That means almost orange-ish in color, barely ripe berry fruit, sort of savory, and very clean and crisp. Once again, an exampole that all roses aren’t alike. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers
• Charles & Charles Rose 2020 ($12, sample, 11.8%): Winemakers Charles Bieler and Charles Smith combine on this Washington state rose, which shows up on this list every year. This vintage displays its usual brilliance — very Provencal in the back, almost tart, and with terrific strawberry fruit from the syrah. This, too, is priced from $12 to $17.
