Wine of the week: Vinho verde 2022

There’s lots and lots of vinho verde available, but prices have gone up and quality is inconsistent

Vinho verde, the much maligned Portuguese white wine (and sometimes rose) with a little sweetness that usually doesn’t cost more than $8 or $9, has made the big time. How do I know this?

First, my local Total Wine carries eight private label vinhos. Say what you will about Total, the chain knows what sells. And if it has eight private labels, it must be selling lots and lots of vinho verde.

Second, this year’s version of the Casal Garcia got 90 points from a big-time member of the Winestream Media. It almost doesn’t matter if the wine is that well-made (it isn’t); what matters is that the Winestream Media is taking vinho seriously after years of lumping it with the rest of the cheap wine they ignore.

Neither of those, unfortunately, is good news. All that attention means prices are higher – I’ve seen $15 vinho verde, which would have been unheard of before the pandemic. And this year’s quality was disappointingly inconsistent. There was some old-fashioned 7Up fizz wine out there, something I haven’t tasted in several years.

The blog’s vinho verde primer is here. The wines are usually non-vintage, with slightly sweet lemon-lime or apple fruit, low alcohol, and a little fizz — all of which makes it ideal for hot weather. Most of the cheapest wines, like Santola, Famega, Casal Garcia, and Gazela (and that often have a crab on the label), are made by the same couple of companies but sold under different names to different retailers.

The three most dependable vinho verdes are the Broadbent ($9, 9%), which has been a little softer the past couple of years but still sets the standard; and the Faisao white and rose ($8/1-liter bottle, 10%). The rose remains Hall of Fame quality, somehow sweet, tart, and refreshing at the same time, while the white is only slightly less impressive.

Check out these other vinho verdes:

• Nobilis Vinho Verde NV ($9, purchased, 9%): Total Wine knockoff of the Broadbent (but that may be available elsewhere) that isn’t as full or as interesting. Having said that, still enjoyable (spritzy, lemon-lime fruit). And it comes with a nutrition facts label – just 87 calories and 2 grams of carbs. Who knew? Worth buying just for that. Imported by Evaton

• Vera Vinho Verde Rose 2021 ($12, sample, 12.5%): More complex pink vinho verde, with fresh strawberry fruit and almost pleasing sweetness. Would that California wines that pass themselves off as dry (and you know who you are) handle sweetness this well. Highly recommended. Imported by Ole & Obrigado

• Casal Garcia Vinho Verde NV ($6, purchased, 9.5%): This is as old-fashioned as vinho gets – the 7Up fizz, obviously sweet, and a hint of citrus fruit. Bring on the 100-degree days. Imported by Avelada

More about vinho verde:
• Vinho verde review 2021
• Vinho verde review 2020
• Vinho verde review 2019
• Why aren’t we drinking more Portuguese wine?

Photo: “21 Leaders 2012 Honoree Robin Read and Women’s eNews Board Member June Cross” by WeNews is licensed under CC BY 2.0