Tag Archives: Washington state wine

Wine of the week: Charles & Charles Rose 2022

Quality wins out, year after year

Charles & Charles rose bottle
Charles & Charles Rose 2022/$9-$16

Yes, the wine business makes me crazy. And then I get to taste a terrific cheap wine that reminds me why it’s worth all the aggravation.

In this case, it’s the Charles & Charles Rose 2022 ($12, sample, 11.5%). This pink from Washington state is terrific every vintage, doesn’t cost a lot of money, can be found in some supermarkets, and my Mom likes it. What more do we want from wine?

The blend for the 2022 is more typical of a rose than usual – about one-half syrah, one-third grenache, and the rest mourvedre. This puts it squarely in the Provencal style camp, though – as the tasting notes point out – it’s a lot cooler in Washington state.

That combination makes the wine just enough different from the 2021 so that any wine geeks paying attention can taste it and wonder how Charles & Charles does it at this price. It’s Provencal-like with barely ripe berry fruit, but there is an almost orange thing in the middle and a sort of savory finish. So yes, buy a case and keep it handy for Labor Day weekend.

Highly recommended and certain to return to the Hall of Fame next year, and perhaps show up on the short list for the 2024 Turner cheap wine award. Surprisingly – or not, given what’s going on with wine these days – there is still a fair amount of 2021 left. So don’t be afraid to get a bottle of each and do your own tasting. Why should the geeks have all the fun?

 

Memorial Day and rose 2022

Drinking rose
Bring on the pink — it’s the WC’s rose season preview..

The blog’s 15th annual Memorial Day and rose celebration — bring on the pink, because we need value and quality more than ever

Let’s gloss over the bad rose news as the blog celebrates its 15th annual Memorial Day rose extravaganza. Forget about the trumped up $18 pinks, both domestic and foreign, that try to get by on a label aimed at younger wine drinkers, because they’re supposed to be too stupid to know what rose is. And don’t worry about the continuing and all too depressing trend of calling a rose dry when it is noticeably sweet. These wines are mostly domestic, but even some imports think this is smart business.

Instead, let’s focus on yet another vintage of delicious and affordable roses — maybe not quite as affordable as in past years (tariff and pandemic), but still not the $20 that the wine business considers the cutoff for “affordable.” (Honestly. They told us that at a seminar last week — $60 is expensive, but $20 is affordable.)

In fact, I tasted so many worthy roses this year that picking which to include today and tomorrow was more difficult than ever. Who would have expected that? Missing are blog favorites Scaia and Mont Gravet; have not seen the 2021 versions yet. And don’t forget the blog’s rose primer and the rose category (from the drop down menu on the lower right), which lists 15 years of rose reviews.

Today, six standout roses – each highly recommended. Tomorrow, six more roses worth writing about:

• Bielet Pere et Fils Sabine Rose 2021 ($13, sample, 12.5%): Prices are all over the place once again for this legendary French pink. Can you believe $18 at one national retailer? This vintage has a touch more fresh berry fruit (raspberry?), but otherwise all one can expect from a rose at this price — or costing twice as much. Imported by Bieler et Fils

• Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel 2021 ($15, sample, 13.9%): Rich, full, and balanced, with wonderful dark berry fruit from the zinfandel. This is not a razor-sharp, Provence style rose; rather, it’s much more California in style, and much welcome for that reason.

• Hecht & Bannier Rose 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%): I’m not the biggest fan of the Hecht, but the 2020 is a step up — more Provencal in style. That means almost stony, with wild strawberry fruit, and lots of garrigue. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons

• Zestos Rosado 2021 ($12, purchased, 12,5%): Maybe the best vintage ever of this always wonderful Spanish pink, taking garnacha where I didn’t think it could go. Almost an orange aroma, with subtle, barely ripe berry fruit, and stony finish that seems to go on forever. Imported by Ole & Obrigado

• Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 12.5%): This French pink is a tremendous value — strawberry and cherry fruit, full in the mouth, and quite refreshing. Imported by Polaner Selections

• Charles & Charles Rose 2021 ($12, sample, 12.5%): Fruitier this year, with an almost citrus zest aroma, followed with not quite tart cherry fruit. If the Sabine (made by one of the Charles’ here) is relatively consistent vintage to vintage, this Washington state pink changes every year. Which is a good thing.

More about Memorial Day and rose:
• Memorial Day and rose 2021
• Memorial Day and rose 2020
• Memorial Day and rose 2019
• Wine of the week: Les Dauphins Reserve Rose 2020

Photo: Taha Samet Arslan from Pexels

Mini-reviews 151: Black Friday edition 2021

black friday wine
“Who knew there would be such a line to buy those two roses the WC likes?”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month: two roses and two reds for Black Friday 2021

• Les Deux Moulins Rose 2020 ($17, purchased, 12.5%): This French pink is one of the best roses I’ve tasted in years, which means a couple of things. First, availability may be a problem. Second, it may cost as much as $20. But it’s worth it — fruity (strawberry), not quite tart,  and a long finish that’s not quite crisp. It’s a weird blend to boot, with gamay, cabernet franc, and something called grolleau. Highly recommended. Imported by Paris Wine Co.

• Cellier des Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Reserve 2018 ($11, purchased, 14.5%): The French red is a little disappointing, given the quality of the white. The syrah in the blend, though only 40 percent, seems to overpower the grenache. Not badly done, just not what I was hoping for. Black fruit, heavy in the mouth. Imported by Plume Ridge

• Castle Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($11, sample, 13.5%): This Washington state red is solid, supermarket-quality cabernet — some green herbs, some dark fruit, and sturdy tannins. If it’s not especially Washington state, it’s not soft and gooey, either.

• Capezzana Vin Ruspo 2020 ($15, purchased, 12.5%): An Italian rose that is oh so pretty, full of berries and almost rich — yet somehow also fresh. A fine example of the Italian style. And, of course, availability may be limited. Imported by Dalla Terra

Memorial Day and rose 2021

rose 2021
“Let’s see — which of these roses that the WC likes should I buy?”

The blog’s 14th annual Memorial Day and rose celebration reminds us how wonderful pink wine is — and how little it needs to cost

Yes, there’s lots of bad pink wine news as the blog celebrates its 14th annual Memorial Day rose extravaganza — too many so called dry roses that are actually sweet, too many $20 roses that aren’t appreciably better than $10 roses, and the lingering effects of the Trump wine tariff, which means higher prices and limited availability.

But who cares? Many of us can drink rose with our friends and family this weekend for the first time in more than a year, as the pandemic begins to loosen its grip. And the tariff, thanks to enlightened leadership in the U.S. and EU, looks like it will end sooner rather than later.

So nuts to the bad stuff, and let’s drink great, cheap, delicious — and honest — rose. And that means not sweet, not high in alcohol and not tannic. And don’t forget the blog’s rose primer and the rose category (from the dropdown menu on the lower right), which lists 14 years of rose reviews.

One note: I have not been to find the 2020 vintages of the Spanish Zestos and the French La Viellie Ferme and Mont Gravet roses, all of which are always worth buying. However, there is still lots of the 2019s, and they’re still top-notch.

Today, six standout roses – each highly recommended. Tomorrow, five more roses worth writing about:

• Bielet Pere et Fils Sabine Rose 2020 ($13, sample, 12.5%): Prices are all over the place for this French pink, which is one of the world’s best every year — as little as $10 or $11 to as much as $16 or $17. The 2020 is terrific again — pleasantly tart strawberry fruit and wonderfully fresh, if not  quite what the 2019 was (maybe missing some garrigue?). Talk about setting a high bar. Imported by Bieler et Fils

• Pedroncelli Dry Rose of Zinfandel 2020 ($13, sample, 13.7%): Each year, Pedroncelli turns out a rose that shows off a more traditional California style. That means heavier, but not heavy, and darker, deeper fruit (red berries and cherry), but still long and clean. So different and interesting and well worth buying.

• Faisao Vinho Verde Rose NV ($10/1 liter, purchased, 10.5%): How can vinho verde — and pink vinho at that — be made so well and taste like wine? A little spritzy, something akin to lemon strawberry fruit, and not so sweet you’d notice it if you weren’t looking for it. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.

• LaValentina Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Rose 2019 ($12, purchased, 13,5%): The Italian Wine Guy and I tasted a quite delicious $20 rose from the same region in Italy, which made me appreciate this one that much more. Fruity (cherries?) and almost savory. A fine example of a not too common style. Imported by Dallas Terra

• Apaltagua Carmenere Rose 2020 ($13, sample, 13.5%): This is a Chilean rose, made with a uniquely Chilean grape, but that resembles classic Spanish rose. That means almost orange-ish in color, barely ripe berry fruit, sort of savory, and very clean and crisp. Once again, an exampole that all roses aren’t alike. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Charles & Charles Rose 2020 ($12, sample, 11.8%): Winemakers Charles Bieler and Charles Smith combine on this Washington state rose, which shows up on this list every year. This vintage displays its usual brilliance — very Provencal in the back, almost tart, and with terrific strawberry fruit from the syrah. This, too, is priced from $12 to $17.

More about Memorial Day and rose:
• Memorial Day and rose 2020
• Memorial Day and rose 2019
• Memorial Day and rose 2018
• Wine of the week: Chateau de Campuget Rose 2019

Photo: Justin Aikin, via Unsplash

Mini-reviews 141: Be Human, Carmel Road, Brancott, Mulderbosch

Be HumanReviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, bring on the residual sugar!

• Be Human Merlot 2018 ($17, sample, 14.5%): Slightly sweet Washington red, with lots of fake chocolate and fake cherry. Somehow, one review described this as a dry, cheap wine. Sigh.

• Carmel Road Chardonnay 2019 ($15, sample, 13.%): A California white that is about as typical a $15 supermarket wine as you’ll find: Pleasant and a touch sweet, the kind of wine that will leave you wondering what you saw in it after you finish the bottle.

• Brancott Flight Song Pinot Grigio 2019 ($12, purchased, 9%): This New Zealand white gives new meaning to the term post-modern. It’s a riesling-style pinot grigio, so it’s sweet – and its selling point is that it’s lower in calories than “regular” pinot grigio. Not so much gross as just annoying. Imported by Pernod Ricard USA

• Mulderbosch Cabernet Franc 2017 ($39, sample, 13%): South Africa’s Mulderbosch has found a way to add sweetness to a pricey red wine. Who knew? Otherwise, it’s a sort of New World cabernet franc, which means less graphite and more red fruit, and not much else. Imported by Third Leaf Wines

Photo: “A couple drinking wine” by freestocks.org is marked with CC0 1.0

Mini-reviews 140: Christmas Eve edition 2020

christmas eve 2020Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. This month, a special Christmas Eve 2020 edition.

• Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rose 2020 ($15, sample, 12.5%): The South African Mulderbosch was once one of the world’s great cheap roses. This isn’t it — there has been a price hike and the wine is softer, without the edge the cabernet used to give it. Plus, there’s a touch of sweetness. Very disappointing. Imported by Third Leaf Wines

• Petra Zingari 2015 ($13, purchased, 14%): This red blend is made in the popular post-modern Italian style, so that the sangiovese is surrounded by three international grapes — merlot, syrah, and petite verdot. Notice I wrote surrounded, and not complemented. It is well made and professional, and spot on if you like this style. Imported by TMT USA

• Calcu Escarlata 2019 ($12, sample, 14%): This Chilean red blend is exactly the kind of supermarket wine that focus groups like — lots of dark fruit, no tannins, and very little acidity. It does what it does well enough, but there are hundreds of wines exactly like it. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Chasing Rain Merlot 2018 ($24, sample, 14.5%): A very dark merlot from Washinton state that tastes like it has lots of winemaking going on. It’s more heavy and tannic, more like a caberent, with less soft merlot character.

Mini-reviews 139: Black Friday edition 2020

Black Friday 2020Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month: two reds, a white, and a rose for Black Friday 2020

• La Vieille Ferme Rouge 2019 ($8, purchased, 13%): Long-time reader Rich Liebman always insisted I was too hard on this French red blend, which I’ve been drinking off and on for longer than I care to remember. And he was correct — it’s nowhere near as old-fashioned as it used to be. It’s less harsh, there’s more dark fruit, and there might even be something that could be oak. But I’m still not sure it should be part of my regular wine rotation. Imported by Vineyard Brands

• CK Mondavi Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($6, sample, 12.6%): This California white is notoriously inconsistent, so the good news is that this vintage tastes like $6 sauvignon blanc — more sauvignon blanc in character (some grass, some citrus fruit) and less cheap tasting.

• Dixie & Bass Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($18, sample, 14.5%): There’s nothing very subtle about this Washington state red. It’s a standard big, fruity (black cherry?), over-the-top cabernet (though it tastes more Lodi than Washington state). If this is your style of wine, it’s a fair value.

• Notre Vue GSM Rose 2019 ($29, sample, 12.7%): This California pink is a pretty, well-made, and enjoyable wine. Look for crisp berryish fruit, and a long, clean, mineral-driven finish. But is really three times better than a top-notch $10 rose?