Category:White wine

Fourth of July wine 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

super hero miniatures
“Quick — to the retailer before premiumization destroys all the quality cheap wine.”

Fourth of July wine 2022: Four bottles offering value and quality for Independence Day

This year, the U.S. is 246 years old — so here are wines worthy of that birthday. As always, keep our summer and porch wine guidelines in mind for this time of year.

Here are four wines to start with:

• Tormaresca Calafuria 2020 ($10, purchased, 12%): Once, the Italian Tormaresca Neprica was the blog’s favorite cheap red wine. Then, it went the way of the rest. So imagine my surprise to taste this Tormaresca pink —  a little fizzy, dark berry fruit, and a touch not light. Nicely done. Imported by Ste. Michelle Wine Estate

• Pedroncelli Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($15, sample, 13.9%): Classic California sauvignon blanc — grassy, a bit of citrus, not too tart, and almost flinty. A three-generation family producer shows how it’s done.

• Trivento Malbec Reserve 2020 ($11, sample, 13.8%): Solid, professional Argentine red, made in the supermarket style — lots of sweet black fruit, but not a sweet wine and one that is mostly balanced. Previous vintages have been a little darker and earthier, but this is fine for what if tries to do. Barbecue? Indeed. Imported by Eagle Peak Estates

• Charles LaFitte Brut Prestige NV ($12, purchased, 12%): Entry-level French Methode Champenoise sparkling from a prestigious producer, but made far from Champagne. Yes, there is a bit of the 7-Up feel to it, but otherwise well-made cheap bubbly — some green apples, tight bubbles, and almost zesty. Imported by Vranken Pommery America

Photo: TFNY18_074c” by BAS Photog is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0.

More Fourth of July wine:
• Fourth of July wine 2021
• Fourth of July wine 2020
• Fourth of July wine 2019
• Wine of the week: Bonny Doon Picpoul 2021

Wine to drink while you’re waiting for the avocado pits to sprout

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

avocado pits in glasses
Will Dallas water lend terroir to my guacamole?

Because the WC isn’t going to be caught short of guacamole

Yes, an avocado shortage.

But the Wine Curmudgeon is undeterred. I got a couple of shot glasses, a handful of toothpicks, and my last two avocado pits. So, in six months or so, I should have a couple of avocado plants. Now, the shortage may be over by then, but one shouldn’t take any chances with guacamole.

Which leads us to the next step in my urban farming experiment: What wines to drink while I’m waiting for the pits to sprout? Roses and light whites, of course:

• Albamar Chardonnay 2021 ($12, sample, 13.5%): This Chilean white is stunning — clean, crisp, and refreshing, with green apple and pear fruit. The bad news? Only 1,000 cases were imported. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Laurent Miquel Cinsault Syrah Rose 2021 ($11, purchased, 12.5%) One more reason why there’s no need to spend $20 on rose. This French pink has berry fruit, a bit of stoniness, and a clean finish. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons

• Amalaya Esperanza por un Milagro Rose 2021 ($10, purchased, 13%): Well-done Argentine-style rose, so more fruit (ripe red berries), less acidity (but not sweet), and more full in the mouth. The little bit of torrontes in the blend is a nice touch to round out the wine. Imported by The Hess Collection

Wine of the week: Vinho verde 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Four women drinking wine
“Did you see what the WC said about vinho verde? We need to get some.”

There’s lots and lots of vinho verde available, but prices have gone up and quality is inconsistent

Vinho verde, the much maligned Portuguese white wine (and sometimes rose) with a little sweetness that usually doesn’t cost more than $8 or $9, has made the big time. How do I know this?

First, my local Total Wine carries eight private label vinhos. Say what you will about Total, the chain knows what sells. And if it has eight private labels, it must be selling lots and lots of vinho verde.

Second, this year’s version of the Casal Garcia got 90 points from a big-time member of the Winestream Media. It almost doesn’t matter if the wine is that well-made (it isn’t); what matters is that the Winestream Media is taking vinho seriously after years of lumping it with the rest of the cheap wine they ignore.

Neither of those, unfortunately, is good news. All that attention means prices are higher – I’ve seen $15 vinho verde, which would have been unheard of before the pandemic. And this year’s quality was disappointingly inconsistent. There was some old-fashioned 7Up fizz wine out there, something I haven’t tasted in several years.

The blog’s vinho verde primer is here. The wines are usually non-vintage, with slightly sweet lemon-lime or apple fruit, low alcohol, and a little fizz — all of which makes it ideal for hot weather. Most of the cheapest wines, like Santola, Famega, Casal Garcia, and Gazela (and that often have a crab on the label), are made by the same couple of companies but sold under different names to different retailers.

The three most dependable vinho verdes are the Broadbent ($9, 9%), which has been a little softer the past couple of years but still sets the standard; and the Faisao white and rose ($8/1-liter bottle, 10%). The rose remains Hall of Fame quality, somehow sweet, tart, and refreshing at the same time, while the white is only slightly less impressive.

Check out these other vinho verdes:

• Nobilis Vinho Verde NV ($9, purchased, 9%): Total Wine knockoff of the Broadbent (but that may be available elsewhere) that isn’t as full or as interesting. Having said that, still enjoyable (spritzy, lemon-lime fruit). And it comes with a nutrition facts label – just 87 calories and 2 grams of carbs. Who knew? Worth buying just for that. Imported by Evaton

• Vera Vinho Verde Rose 2021 ($12, sample, 12.5%): More complex pink vinho verde, with fresh strawberry fruit and almost pleasing sweetness. Would that California wines that pass themselves off as dry (and you know who you are) handle sweetness this well. Highly recommended. Imported by Ole & Obrigado

• Casal Garcia Vinho Verde NV ($6, purchased, 9.5%): This is as old-fashioned as vinho gets – the 7Up fizz, obviously sweet, and a hint of citrus fruit. Bring on the 100-degree days. Imported by Avelada

More about vinho verde:
• Vinho verde review 2021
• Vinho verde review 2020
• Vinho verde review 2019
• Why aren’t we drinking more Portuguese wine?

Photo: “21 Leaders 2012 Honoree Robin Read and Women’s eNews Board Member June Cross” by WeNews is licensed under CC BY 2.0

Father’s Day wine 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Father's Day ties
Once more, the Father’s Day tie picture — call me corny, but I love it.

Father’s Day wine 2022: Bring on the well-made and value-oriented wine for Dad

Yes, despite economic uncertainty and all the rest, we found wine for Dad for Father’s Day that fits what we do here — price and value, and not silliness. And don’t forget the blog’s wine gift-giving guidelines — don’t buy someone wine that you think they should like; buy them what they will like.

Father’s Day wine 2022 suggestions:

• Carol Shelton Wild Thing Zinfandel 2018 ($18, purchased, 14.5%): Spot-on California old vine zinfandel (60 years at least) that is somehow jammy (berries and berries and more berries), but not heavy or hot. Having said that it’s a big wine and a mouthful, and needs lots of red meat. Highly recommended.

• Domaine Bousquet Brut NV ($13, sample, 12%): Argentine bubbly with surprising structure, tight-ish bubbles, not too sweet, and apple and lemon fruit. Imported by Origins Organic

• Jean-Pierre Boisson Rose Domaine du Pere Caboche ($11, purchased, 12.5%): Full, rich and surprisingly complex $10 French rose, with almost cranberry fruit and what one tasting note calls grenadine. Highly recommended. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

• Chateau La Maroutine Blanc 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%): French white Bordeaux blends sauvignon blanc and semillion; the latter, though only 20 percent, is noticeable, and gives the wine a rounder, less citrsusy feel. Lots of stone and minerality. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons

More Father’s Day wine:
• Father’s Day wine 2021
• Father’s Day wine 2020
• Father’s Day wine 2019
• Expensive wine 154: Frank Family Merlot 2018

Wine of the week: Bonny Doon Picpoul 2021

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Bonny Doon Picpoul bottle
Bonny Doon Picpoul 2021/$13-$20

Would that more winemakers understood the joys of picpoul

The Wine Curmudgeon loves picpoul, an odd white grape grown almost exclusively in southern France. The grape makes fresh, crisp, herbal and tart wines, perfect for hot summer weather like that in Dallas.

This means, of course, that picpoul is not easily found in Dallas (though those of you on the East Coast should have better luck).

Which is where Randall Grahm comes in. He has made this wine since 2012, and even in semi-retirement, his legacy lives on with the Bonny Doon Picpoul 2021 ($15, sample, 11%). It’s another in a long line of fine picpouls from France and California that showcases what the grape can do at a more than fair price.

Picpoul’s meaning is loosely translated as “lip-stinger” because of its acidity. The Bonny Doon is a little softer, thanks to some grenache blanc in the blend, but it’s not oaky chardonnay by any means. Look for some lemon and minerality, and an almost savory character. It’s a light wine in style, but it’s not thin.

Buy a bottle, chill it, and sit on the back porch – with plenty of shade, of course – as summer gets even hotter.

Wine of the week: Domaine de Bernier Chardonnay 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Domaine de Bernier Chardonnay
Domaine de Bernier Chardonnay 2020/$9-$15

This $10 French chardonnay is a revelation – even for those of us who have all but given up cheap chardonnay

The Wine Curmudgeon has all but given up on chardonnay that costs less than $15 a bottle. It’s either sweet or crammed full of fake oak or undergone the buttered popcorn treatment – or, shudder, features some combination of all three.

So know that the Domaine de Bernier chardonnay is a revelation, a stunning French wine that is a reminder of what cheap wine should be – professional, varietally correct, and devoid of focus group shenanigans.

That means the Domaine de Bernier Chardonnay 2020 ($10, purchased, 12%) combines the best the best qualities of French chardonnay (round and full and green apple and pear fruit) at an unbelievable price. It’s not even especially simple, which is usually about the best we can hope for in this kind of wine these days. There’s a fair amount of subtlety going on, if I can mix my adjectives, and the finish is especially long and crisp.

So how is this wine this cheap? The grapes come from the Loire, hardly known for chardonnay, which helps keep the price down. In addition, the producer and importer understand pricing in a way too many others don’t. Price it right, sell it out, and enjoy the results.

Highly recommended, and almost certain to show up in the 2023 Hall of Fame and to make the shortlist for the 2023 Cheap Wine of the Year.

Imported by Vineyard Brands

Mother’s Day wine 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

mother's day
“Yes, honey. We’ll buy some of the WC’s Mother’s Day wine suggestions.”

Four suggestions — white, sparkling, rose, and red — for Mother’s Day 2022

The blog’s 16th annual Mother’s Day wine post speaks to how far we’ve come in making it OK to buy cheap wine, despite all the obstacles over the years.  So, as always, the emphasis is on value and quality — and with the reminder that we should buy Mom something she will enjoy and not something we think she should drink.

These Mother’s Day wine suggestions should get you started:

• Calcu Rosé Reserva Especial 2021 ($13, sample, 12.5%): Much more going on with this Chilean pink (a blend of malbec and petit verdot) than it would seem. Crisp, tart, stony, and barely ripe berry fruit. Highly recommended. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Duquesa de Valladolid Verdejo 2020 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): Solid, professional Spanish white from the Rueda region. That means very bright lemon fruit, as well as very fresh and very crisp. What more can one ask for in $10 wine? Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections

• Paula Kornell Brut NV ($18, purchased, 12%): Quality California bubbly for less than $20 is almost unheard of, so the Kornell has gotten a lot of attention. Look for some sweet stone fruit, maybe some lemon, and lots and lots of bubbles.

• Castillo del Barón Monastrell 2019 ($9, purchased, 14.2%): I’ve been buying this Spanish red for several years, and it has never disappointed. It’s not too big and not too rough, as some can be, and it has not too noticeable tannins and just enough black fruit —  drink with a hearty weeknight dinner or Mother’s Day barbecue. Imported by Europvin

Photo: CarolinaJG, via MorgueFile

More about Mother’s Day wine:
• Mother’s Day wine 2021
• Mother’s Day wine 2020
• Mother’s Day wine 2019
• Expensive wine 151: Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvee Brut
• Wine of the week: Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc Petit 2019