Category:White wine

Wine of the week: Naia Verdejo 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Naia Verdejo bottle
Naia Verdejo 2020/$10-$25

This Spanish white reminds us that cheap wine doesn’t have to be stupid

Verdejo has long been a workhorse grape, used to make lots and lots of Spanish white wine of indifferent quality. But in the last 10 or 15 years, a funny thing happened: Cheap and well-made wines showed up on store shelves with verdejo.

The Naia has long been one of the best-made of these wines – professional, consistent, and enjoyable. I have not seen it at retail for a white, so was more than happy to pick up the 2020 ($13, purchased, 13.5%). And, for the most part, I was glad I did.

This vintage is not as bright as I remember it being, and it’s not quite as savory – a quality that the less tart wines sometimes had. Plus, the finish is a little heavier.

But who I am to complain when I tasted a bottle of a sweet cabernet sauvignon the other day that almost made me gag – and that cost $16? The Naia is still a fine wine, a fine example of the varietal, and a fine value. Look for not quite tart lemon fruit as well as some stone fruit and and interesting minerality on the finish.

A turkey wine? Of course, as well as something for all of those leftovers. Also, pricing is all over place — try not to pay more than $15.

Imported by Aviva Vino

 

Wine of the week: Honoro Vera Verdejo 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Honoro Vera Verdejo 2020 bottle
Honoro Vera Verdejo 2020/$7-$12

$10 – or even less – delivers a Spanish white that offers quality and value

Those of us who drink a lot of cheap wine will see Honoro Vera on store shelves a lot. Sometimes, when we buy it, it’s a fine wine and great value. Sometimes, not nearly as much.

I’ve never been able to figure out this inconsistency, but I’ve accepted I need to take my chances with the brand. Fortunately, the Honoro Vera Verdejo 2020 ($9, purchased, 13.5%) is firmly in the first group – not just value and quality, but a wonderful example of verdejo, a Spanish white grape.

In fact, the wine does this even though it’s blended with sauvignon blanc, which is usually a sign in Spanish wine that the producer is trying do a little winemaking, either to nudge the wine in a cheaper or more smoooth direction.

But not in this case. The wine is little less tart than some verdejos, and there is a little more tropical fruit in the middle, courtesy of warm climate sauvignon blanc. But it still has that crisp and fresh lemon fruit that verdejo is known for, and sort of pithy finish is interesting.

So simple, but not stupid, and varietally correct. And just the thing for a busy holiday season when it’s time for dinner, even if dinner is only takeout chicken.

Imported by RTM Imports

Mini-reviews 163: Black Friday edition 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

People waiting in line for Black Friday
“Why does the WC keep reviewing wines that are hard to find?”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month: four whites for Black Friday 2022

• Bodega Marichal Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($12, sample, 12.7%): Uruguayan sauvignon blanc that is spot on and resembles the old Chilean style (some lemon, maybe some minerality). Simple and not stupid. Availability may be a problem. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Adega de Portalegre Conventual Reserva Branco 2018 ($11, sample, 12%): Why would I get a sample for a wine that isn’t available in the U.S.? Your guess is as good as mine. Too bad it isn’t: this Portuguese white blend is subtle and interesting, with some stone fruit and spice.  Imported by Wines of Portugal

• Bodegas Godelia Blanco 2020 ($12, purchased, 13.5%): One more label with little U.S. distribution, but find it for $15 or less and you have a terrific buy. Spanish white is subtle — almost stone fruit, but more crisp than viognier and not as rich as chardonnay. A fine food wine. Imported by Europvin USA

• Pavette Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($12, purchased, 12.2%): The California white (though the link says it’s from Washington state) gets points for effort. Not many are still bothering to make quality wine at this price in California. It’s a bit too tart, though, and needs a little more fruit other than the grassy aroma.

Wine of the week: The Wolftrap White 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

The Wolftrap White bottle
The Wolftrap White 2020/$9-$12

South African white blend reminds us how wonderful $10 wine can be

Once, in those long ago days when quality $10 wine was not an exception, white blends made with less common grapes were not unusual. Today, of course, in the age of sweet $25 supermarket chardonnay, one has to look long and hard to find those kinds of white blends.

Unless one knows to look in South Africa.

The blog has featured a number of these wines, several from Boekenhoutskloof, a producer in the Western Cape. The 2020 vintage of their The Wolftrap White ($10, purchased, 13.5%) is another excellent example of what can be with these kinds of grapes and quality winemaking.

I tasted the wine twice – once, shortly after it was released, and about a year later. The difference was quite intriguing. At first, it was a little heavy with less fruit (and mostly from the viognier). It was still balanced and enjoyable, but not what I expected.

But the year’s age gave it more fruit (apricots, maybe some citrus), and more of that wonderful viognier-driven oiliness, Plus, it was less heavy and more fresh. All in all, a lot more than I expected for $10.

Highly recommended, and a Hall of Fame quality wine. Chill this, serve it for Thanksgiving, or just keep it around the house because it’s so enjoyable.

Imported by Vineyard Brands

 

Thanksgiving wine 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

turkey holding a wine glassFour Thanksgiving wine 2022 suggestions

How about another Shakespeare quote this year? Or, more exactly, not quite a Shakespeare quote? “Gnarly, dude.” Because, after the past couple of years, it’s time for a good laugh.

So enjoy the holiday, and especially these Thanksgiving wine 2022 suggestions. The blog’s guidelines for holiday wine buying are here.

• McManis Pinot Noir 2020 ($12, sample, 13,5%): Lots of nits to pick with this California red — too much oak, it doesn’t need all that vanilla, and the acidity seems a bit out of whack. Having said that that, this is about as close to legitimate pinot noir from California at this price as you’re going to find. It’s fruity (berries and cherry), but not overblown, and the tannins are soft. It is wine, and not smoooth.

• Anne Amie Pinot Gris 2021 ($20, purchased, 13.9%): Would that all wine at this price was this well made and this true to its variety and terroir. This Oregon white has lots of lime, but is also balanced — a bit of mineral and some zippy acidity. Highly recommended from one of the WC’s favorite producers.

• Veuve du Vernay Brut NV ($9, purchased, 11%): There are, apparently, warehouses and warehouses jammed with inexpensive French sparkling wine, made with methode Champenoise for $10 or so and that are well worth drinking. This is one of them, soft but more than just fizzy, with some lemon and apple fruit and a longish finish. Imported by Patriarche USA

• Les Maitres Vignerons de la Vidaubanaise Le Provencal Rose 2021 ($15, purchased, 13%): Well-made and spot on Provencal rose, so there is garrigue, barely ripe berry fruit, and oh so stony. If you can find it for $13, buy a couple of bottles. Imported by Michael Corso Selections

More about Thanksgiving wine:
• Thanksgiving wine 2021
• Thanksgiving wine 2020
• Thanksgiving wine 2019
• Wine of the week: Cantina Cellaro Luma 2019
• Wine review: Patricia Green Dollar Bills Only Pinot Noir 2020

Wine of the week: Les Deux Moulins 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Les Deux Moulins wine label
Les Deux Moulins 2020/$10-$18

Yes, sauvignon blanc from France’s Loire can cost less than $15

One of the great joys  of wine is tasting sauvignon blanc from the Loire in France for the first time. Even these days, when most sauvignon blanc takes after New Zealand, there’s still something deliciously different in a Loire wine.

The catch, of course, is price (and yes, I’m as tired of writing that as you are of reading it). These are everyday wines in France, where paying less than $7 a bottle is common. But the same wines can cost $15 or more in the states.

Which brings us to the Les Deux Moulins 2020 ($17, purchased, 12%). Why is a $17 wine the wine of the week? Because it costs as little as $10 in some parts of the country, and I’m not going to pass up the chance to review a top-notch Loire because a Dallas retailer wanted extra margin.

The Les Deux Moulins is a well-made Loire sauvignon blanc with a little more citrus fruit and a little less flintiness than I expected. Having said that, it’s professional and quite drinkable, and doesn’t taste of grapefruit. There is some lemon zest and an enjoyable, almost pithy quality, on the end. It’s not big and powerful, but it’s not supposed to be.

This is seafood wine – simple grilled fish (even fried catfish) as well as chicken breasts marinated with lemon juice, olive oil, herbs, and garlic.

Imported by Paris Wine Company

Mini-reviews 162: Tabali, Torre de Palma, Amayna, Richard Bocking

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

women drinking wine
“Wow. Those wines are interesting. Thanks, WC.”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month; this month, four interesting whites.

• Tabalí Talinay Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($24, sample, 13%): This Chilean whiteis well made, featuring lemongrass and minerality, But it’s heavier and much more substantial in style than the typical Chilean sauvignon blanc. This seems to be an emerging trend; I’ve received a half dozen or so of these kinds of wine. Needs food. Imported by Biagio Cru and Estate Wines

• Torre de Palma Branco 2021 ($30, sample, 13.5%): Nicely done Portuguese white blend (includes the Portuguese version of albarino) with some lime, decent minerality, and even some savory notes. But $30 will still buy quality white Burgundy or Napa chardonnay. Limited availability. Imported by Brands of Portugal

• Amayna Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($25, sample, 13.9%) Pleasant, if not overwhelming (and especially for $25) Chilean sauvignon blanc. Lime fruit and some minerality but sort of one note. Imported by Vine Connections

• Richard Bocking Riesling 2019 ($18, sample, 11.5%): Delicious and well-made off-dry riesling — just the kind of thing we need more of in the U.S. Some stone fruit and citrus, a hint of petrol and minerality, and almost refreshing sweetness. Highly recommended, though limited availablity. Imported by Kindred Vines

Photo: Kelsey Chance on Unsplash