Wine of the week: Naia Verdejo 2020

This Spanish white reminds us that cheap wine doesn’t have to be stupid

Verdejo has long been a workhorse grape, used to make lots and lots of Spanish white wine of indifferent quality. But in the last 10 or 15 years, a funny thing happened: Cheap and well-made wines showed up on store shelves with verdejo.

The Naia has long been one of the best-made of these wines – professional, consistent, and enjoyable. I have not seen it at retail for a white, so was more than happy to pick up the 2020 ($13, purchased, 13.5%). And, for the most part, I was glad I did.

This vintage is not as bright as I remember it being, and it’s not quite as savory – a quality that the less tart wines sometimes had. Plus, the finish is a little heavier.

But who I am to complain when I tasted a bottle of a sweet cabernet sauvignon the other day that almost made me gag – and that cost $16? The Naia is still a fine wine, a fine example of the varietal, and a fine value. Look for not quite tart lemon fruit as well as some stone fruit and and interesting minerality on the finish.

A turkey wine? Of course, as well as something for all of those leftovers. Also, pricing is all over place — try not to pay more than $15.

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