Category:Spanish wine

Expensive wine 167: Ameztoi Hondarrabi Zuri 2021

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Ameztoi Hondarrabi Zuri bottle
Ameztoi Hondarrabi Zuri 2021/$18-$32

Calling all wine geeks – a sweetish, fizzy Basque white

Regular readers know – for all of my wine practicality – that there are a couple of grapes and regions that make the Wine Curmudgeon geek out.

One of which is Basque wine from northern Spain and a region called Getariako Txakolina, featuring the hondarrabi zuri grape. It’s used to make whites and roses, but it’s not for all tastes. Anyone who likes lots of oak or lots of too ripe fruit or lots of smoooth will probably find these wines lacking. But that’s OK; that’s the way wine works.

The Ameztoi Hondarrabi Zuri 2021 ($22, purchased, 11%) is from one of what seems to be a number of smallish producers, in this case Ameztoi (which I’ve not seen before). Having said that, the wine does everything it’s supposed to do – a bit of spritz, a bit of citrus, a bit of sweetness, and maybe even a bit of savory. Because that’s how these geeky wines work – a bottle of contradictions. My only complaint is the price; if you pay much more than $20, you may be disappointed.

I suppose, if one is looking for a comparison, it would be the Portuguese vinho verde. But wines from Getariako Txakolina are more complex and more interesting, in the way cru Beaujolais is more interesting than the supermarket versions.

This is warm weather wine, perfect as spring starts to unfold. Highly recommended, and especially for anyone who aspires to wine geek-dom.

Imported by De Maison Selections

 

Wine of the week: Protocolo Tinto 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

protocolo tinto label
Protocolo Tinto 2019/$6-$8

Spend $7, get quality wine for dinner — what a revolutionary concept

An Italian wine that I paid $10 for in September cost $14 when I bought it a couple of weeks ago – same wine, same vintage, same retailer, and likely sitting in the same warehouse since the middle of last year.

So raise its price 40 percent!

Which is a roundabout way to sing – once again – the praises of the Spanish Protocolo wines, which come in red, white, and pink, as well as organic. Consistent, fair price, fair value, and enjoyable – without any mysterious 40 percent price increases.

The Protocolo Tinto 2020 ($7, purchased, 14%) is one more example of how this works. It tastes much like the 2019, though a bit more rustic. That means it’s far from smoooth and certainly not sweet; rather, it tastes like tempranillo from Spain — maybe some dark berry fruit, and enough acidity but not so much in the way of tannins so that it doesn’t taste like a focus group wine.

Yes, simple, but what’s wrong with simple for dinner on Monday night with the leftover pot roast from the weekend? Or one of those Jacques Pepin tortilla pizzas? And, believe it or not, two of the wine magazines like this wine, too, naming it a best value.

In fact, I wouldn’t be surprised if this guy is the only person who doesn’t know what a great deal the Protocolo is.

Imported by Fine Wines of Spain

Wine of the week: Azul y Garanza Tempranillo 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

azul y garanza tempranillo
Azul y Garanza Tempranillo 2020/$12-$18

Neither the pandemic nor the supply chain can stop this Spanish red from offering quality and value

There are many things to like about the Azul y Garanza tempranillo. For one, it comes in a 1-liter bottle, so you get an extra glass for more or less the same price as a 750 ml. It’s made with organic grapes, for those who follow those things. And its importer, Valkyrie Selections, has a portfolio of terrific, inexpensive wines.

But the most important thing to like? This vintage of the wine ($15, purchased, 14.1%) continues the producer’s commitment to everyday wine that we can afford to drink and that won’t insult our sensibilities. The 2020 is a little more rustic and less fruity than previous vintages, while the alcohol is a touch higher than usual (no doubt an attempt to get around the Trump tariff’s 14 percent cutoff).

But the rest is as it should be. The wine opened up after about 20 minutes, showing dark cherry fruit and an almost peppery spiciness. The tannins are more upfront than usual, but they don’t get in the way. Serve it with anything meaty or Spanish, even a chickpea stew or lentils and sausages.

I’m not sure it will return to the Hall of Fame in 2024. Pricing has been all over the place, while availability has been spotty. But it’s still well worth drinking.

Imported by Valkyrie Selections

Mini-reviews 164: The woe to availability edition – and just in time for Christmas

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

empty grocery store shelves
“The WC wasn’t kidding — nary a bottle to be found.”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four interesting wines, but good luck finding three of them (two of which I bought).

• Vins El Cep Xarello 2020 ($12, purchased, 11.5%): This Spanish white is made with a cava grape, xarello. From my tasting notes: “Surprisingly amazing,” given that xarello doesn’t often make quality still wine. But there is structure, lemon and a bit of apple fruit, and quite clean. Limited availability. by Fine Estates from Spain

• El Tuerto Tempranillo Blanco 2021 ($18, purchased, 13%): This Spanish white, made with the red tempranillo grape, is a floral, almost pretty wine, with a blend of tropical and citrus fruits. Impeccably balanced. Highly recommended, if you can find any. Imported by Classic Wines

• Satellite Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%) I still don’t understand why we’re still hearing that there isn’t any New Zealand sauvignon blanc; this is an older past vintage and it’s still for sale. The wine sits midway between the always fine Spy Valley (which makes it) and all those supermarket Bay wines. So less overtly grapefruit, but still citrusy, but a little softer and more tropical in the middle. Imported by Broadbent Wines

• Gillmore Mariposa 2020 ($14, sample, 14%): Rich and full red blend (half cabernet franc, and the rest merlot and syrah) from Chile. So dark fruit, refined tannins and surprising acidity. Too much syrah for my taste but well made. And, of course, not much for sale in the U.S. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Photo: “Empty grocery store shelves in Austin during the 2021 Texas energy crisis” by Jno.skinner is licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0.

Wine of the week: Naia Verdejo 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Naia Verdejo bottle
Naia Verdejo 2020/$10-$25

This Spanish white reminds us that cheap wine doesn’t have to be stupid

Verdejo has long been a workhorse grape, used to make lots and lots of Spanish white wine of indifferent quality. But in the last 10 or 15 years, a funny thing happened: Cheap and well-made wines showed up on store shelves with verdejo.

The Naia has long been one of the best-made of these wines – professional, consistent, and enjoyable. I have not seen it at retail for a white, so was more than happy to pick up the 2020 ($13, purchased, 13.5%). And, for the most part, I was glad I did.

This vintage is not as bright as I remember it being, and it’s not quite as savory – a quality that the less tart wines sometimes had. Plus, the finish is a little heavier.

But who I am to complain when I tasted a bottle of a sweet cabernet sauvignon the other day that almost made me gag – and that cost $16? The Naia is still a fine wine, a fine example of the varietal, and a fine value. Look for not quite tart lemon fruit as well as some stone fruit and and interesting minerality on the finish.

A turkey wine? Of course, as well as something for all of those leftovers. Also, pricing is all over place — try not to pay more than $15.

Imported by Aviva Vino

 

Wine of the week: Flaco Tempranillo 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

flaco wine bottle
Flaco Tempranillo 2020/$4-$12

An enjoyable cheap Spanish red wine – a holiday gift for all of us

One of the first rules in this business – any kind of journalism, in fact – is not to get too friendly with the people you write about. What happens when you have to say something they won’t like?

But that’s really hard to keep in mind with Patrick Mata of importer Ole & Obrigador. Patrick is just not a nice guy, but polite and professional and I’ve quoted him in my wine writing, here and elsewhere, and he has made several podcast appearances.

Fortunately, his wines are usually so well made that there is rarely any need for harsh words. One of my favorites is the Flaco ($11, purchased, 14.5%). It has been featured here three previous times, and this vintage shows again that it offers quality and value.

In fact, the 2020 Flaco is terrific even though the listed alcohol is higher than usual. I suspect that’s a tariff maneuver; the wine doesn’t taste too hot or alcoholic. A friend of mine, who is even more alter to alcohol for the sake of marketing than I am, was shocked when I told her how high it was.

Otherwise, the Flaco is as it always is — simple, enjoyable and varietal. That means some spice, some black cherry fruit, and minimal tannins. It doesn’t taste like a fine, aged Rioja, but – all together now – “it’s not supposed to.”

You can even chill this a little; serve it with winter beef dishes.

Imported by Ole & Obrigado

Wine of the week: Honoro Vera Verdejo 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Honoro Vera Verdejo 2020 bottle
Honoro Vera Verdejo 2020/$7-$12

$10 – or even less – delivers a Spanish white that offers quality and value

Those of us who drink a lot of cheap wine will see Honoro Vera on store shelves a lot. Sometimes, when we buy it, it’s a fine wine and great value. Sometimes, not nearly as much.

I’ve never been able to figure out this inconsistency, but I’ve accepted I need to take my chances with the brand. Fortunately, the Honoro Vera Verdejo 2020 ($9, purchased, 13.5%) is firmly in the first group – not just value and quality, but a wonderful example of verdejo, a Spanish white grape.

In fact, the wine does this even though it’s blended with sauvignon blanc, which is usually a sign in Spanish wine that the producer is trying do a little winemaking, either to nudge the wine in a cheaper or more smoooth direction.

But not in this case. The wine is little less tart than some verdejos, and there is a little more tropical fruit in the middle, courtesy of warm climate sauvignon blanc. But it still has that crisp and fresh lemon fruit that verdejo is known for, and sort of pithy finish is interesting.

So simple, but not stupid, and varietally correct. And just the thing for a busy holiday season when it’s time for dinner, even if dinner is only takeout chicken.

Imported by RTM Imports