Wine of the week: Flaco Tempranillo 2020

flaco wine bottle
Flaco Tempranillo 2020/$4-$12

An enjoyable cheap Spanish red wine – a holiday gift for all of us

One of the first rules in this business – any kind of journalism, in fact – is not to get too friendly with the people you write about. What happens when you have to say something they won’t like?

But that’s really hard to keep in mind with Patrick Mata of importer Ole & Obrigador. Patrick is just not a nice guy, but polite and professional and I’ve quoted him in my wine writing, here and elsewhere, and he has made several podcast appearances.

Fortunately, his wines are usually so well made that there is rarely any need for harsh words. One of my favorites is the Flaco ($11, purchased, 14.5%). It has been featured here three previous times, and this vintage shows again that it offers quality and value.

In fact, the 2020 Flaco is terrific even though the listed alcohol is higher than usual. I suspect that’s a tariff maneuver; the wine doesn’t taste too hot or alcoholic. A friend of mine, who is even more alter to alcohol for the sake of marketing than I am, was shocked when I told her how high it was.

Otherwise, the Flaco is as it always is — simple, enjoyable and varietal. That means some spice, some black cherry fruit, and minimal tannins. It doesn’t taste like a fine, aged Rioja, but – all together now – “it’s not supposed to.”

You can even chill this a little; serve it with winter beef dishes.

Imported by Ole & Obrigado