Category:Wine reviews

Wine of the week: Monte Antico Toscana 2019

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

monte_antico_bottle
Monte Antico Toscana 2019/$9-$16

This Italian red blend offers quality and value for just $10

This Italian red wine used to show up around Dallas for as little as $5 a bottle, and though it’s not that cheap anymore, it’s still $10 in much of the country.

In other words, just kind of quality cheap wine we have celebrated for almost 17 years on the blog,

This vintage of the Monte Antico Toscana ($10, purchased, 13%) remains an example of the classic, everyday bottle of Italian red wine. About the only thing missing from this sangiovese blend (for those of us of a certain age, of course) is the wicker basket.

Look for sour cherry fruit, but it’s also a bright, almost fresh wine, despite its age, and the tannins are pushed way, way back. This vintage, which is the current one, seems to have a bit more depth than the last one I tasted, which was likely the 2016. There was also a 2018, though I didn’t see it in Dallas.

Highly recommended, and just the thing for takeout pizza when the holiday crush gets overwhelming.

Imported by Empson USA

 

Wine of the week: Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul bottle
Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul 2022/$8-$16

This vintage of the French wine is different from the last, but that doesn’t make it bad

Wine is not necessarily supposed to taste exactly the same every vintage, no matter how hard Big Wine tries to make it otherwise. Because, as I learned a long time ago, vintage differences are one of the things that make wine wine.

Case in point: The Les Costières de Pomérols Picpoul 2022 ($12, purchased, 13%). Picpoul is a white grape that is known for the tart wine it makes — hence, lip-stinger. The 2022 is softer and not as tart as previous vintages of the Costieres de Pomerols, but that is neither good nor bad. It’s just different.

The 2022 has more golden delicious apple fruit (sort of geeky wine descriptor alert!) than the more typical lemon and citrus. But the other bits of a well-made picpoul are there, including a touch of green herbs and that classy, clean finish. Chill it and drink on its own, or with almost anything that isn’t big, red, meat.

It’s also worth noting that picpoul wines remains tremendous values, despite everything else going on in wine. I checked the Wine-Searcher list of most popular picpouls for this post, and 18 of the top 20 cost $15 or less.

A wine of the week doesn’t get much more curmudgeonly than that, does it?

Imported by Kysela Pere & Fils

Wine of the week: Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Grenache-Syrah 2019

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Bottle of Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Grenache-Syrah 2019
Cellier des Dauphins Reserve Grenache-Syrah 2019/$10-$15

A red Rhone that is both affordable and enjoyably rustic

The WC has often had a difficult time evaluating red wines from France’s Rhone region. Many of them have a quality that can be off-putting — an earthiness that can sometimes get out of hand, producing a rough and occasionally unpleasant wine. The catch is that earthiness is an important part of these wines, so how much is too much?

The Cellier des Dauphins Grenache-Syrah 2019 ($12, purchased, 14%) offers an example of the correct amount of earthiness. It’s just what one would expect from this sort of wine at this price — rustic and earthy, but not disagreeably so, and surprisingly balanced given its grenache-style red fruit, which can be too jammy. It’s not for all tastes — it’s hardly smoooth — but for those who want to see what the Rhone is like but don’t want to spend $40, this wine do the trick.

Which shouldn’t be surprising, since the Cellier des Dauphins wines usually provide value, and I’m especially fond of the rose.

The red is a food wine, and needs something substantial — takeout pizza perhaps, as the holidays get closer. Or even something beefy for an informal holiday dinner.

Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

Wine of the week: Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo 2022

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Marqués de Cáceres Verdejo bottle
Marques de Caceres Verdejo 2022/$7-$15

Spanish white is cheap, available, and enjoyable — what more do we need?

The Marques de Caceres verdejo is a long-time blog favorite; three times a wine of the week before this, and always consistent, well-made and a value. Yes, it’s a supermarket wine, but that describes its availability and is not meant as a slight to its quality.

The 2022 ($10, purchased, $13.5%) isn’t quite as impressive as previous vintages, but that there are vintage differences in a $10 wine sold at supermarkets says a lot about the wine, the producer, and the importer (another WC favorite, Vineyard Brands). It means everyone involved understands cheap wine is about more than just being cheap.

This vintage is clean, simple, and enjoyable. There isn’t much going on but tart lemon fruit from the veredejo grape, but there really doesn’t need to be. This is wine for dinner in the middle of the week, whether with takeout chicken or if you want to use up the can of tuna in the pantry with some leftover couscous. Or, even, if you just want a glass during all of the holiday bustle.

No muss, no fuss — because that’s what we really want from wine, don’t we?

Imported by Vineyard Brands

Mini-reviews 175: Black Friday edition 2023

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Black Friday at the mall
“I hope we can find that verdicchio the WC has in this review.”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month: a red, two whites, and a sparkler for Black Friday 2023

• Famille Bougrier Anjou 2021 ($10, purchased, 12%): French white is Hall of Fame quality; the catch is that it’s a Total Wine private label. Otherwise, impeccable chenin blanc from the Loire — a bit of stoniness, a bit of green apple, well balanced, not tart, and refreshing. Imported by Saranty Imports

• Excelsior Syrah 2020 ($10, purchased, 14%): This is the most ordinary of the Excelsior South African wines, which are otherwise terrific values. It’s mostly a supermarket effort, with tar instead of bacon fat and very simple. Imported by Cape Classics

• Fazi Battaglia Verdicchio 2021 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): This Italian white is sort of available — big surprise, huh? Surprisingly creamy for verdicchio; more green apple than citrus, with some almond and lots of minerality. Nicely done. Imported by Palm Bay International

• Wycliff Sparkling Rose NV ($6, purchased, 10.5%): Once more, the WC takes one for the team. This California sparkler is flat, sweet,and flabby, and I’m not sure I’d buy it again even if I wanted a flat, sweet, and flabby sparkler.

Photo: “Black Friday at the mall” by Lars Plougmann is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.

Wine of the week: Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red 2020

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red bottle
Shannon Ridge Wrangler Red 2020/$11-$15

California red blend speaks to the state’s great cheap wine history — and the scourge of availability

This California red blend first appeared on the blog in 2015, but has only been the wine of the week once since then.

Its absence has nothing to do with its quality, of course. It’s a classic California red blend, the kind that used to be quite common before everything had to be cabernet sauvignon or pinot noir or the new au courant varietal.

Its absence? Though I bought it in Dallas in 2015, I rarely saw it on store shelves after that. Because wine availability isn’t supposed to make any sense, is it?

Which is too bad, because the 2020 version of the Wrangler Red ($12, purchased, 13.9%) is even better than the last two — Hall of Fame quality, in fact.

It does all that this style of wine — once known as a field blend — should do. That means fruity but not sweet, balanced, and even more going on than just the fruit. Some herbs maybe? Some mocha? And not too tannic, either. That’s even more impressive since the six-grape blend (zinfandel, syrah, petite sirah, merlot, mourvedre, and cabernet franc) could be overwhelming. It’s not like the first two are especially subtle.

Highly recommended, and just the thing for almost any holiday dinner that isn’t fish (and I’m not so sure that it wouldn’t work with salmon).

Thanksgiving wine 2023

by Wine Curmudgeon Posted On

Cartoon of turkey with wine glassFour Thanksgiving wine 2023 suggestions

The WC’s favorite holiday is Thanksgiving. I get to cook and share wine and food with the people I care about. How can that not be terrific?

So enjoy the holiday, and especially these Thanksgiving wine 2023 suggestions. The blog’s guidelines for holiday wine buying are here.

• La Fiera Pinot Grigio 2021 ($11, purchased, 12%): This Italian white is about as consistent as this kind of wine gets (though it’s more Kirkland in style this vintage). But its still well made, with a hint of lemon peel and very clean and dry. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.

• Althea Prosecco NV ($15, purchased, 11%): $15 Prosecco for people who like Prosecco — so a touch sweet, terrific fizzy bubbles, and a bit of lemon fruit. Very professional. Imported by La Cigale Wines

• Domaine Laroque Pinot Noir 2021 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): Simple, almost rustic French pinot noir that mostly tastes like pinot noir. Some dark red fruit, a bit more tannin than it should have, a surprisingly pinot noir aroma, and, overall, probably greater than the sum of its parts. Imported by Aquitane Wine USA

• Zestos Old Vine Rosado 2022 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): All of the Zestos Spanish wines are worth buying, and in large quantities. This vintage of the rose is more in the Provencal style, with barely ripe berry fruit and some minerality. Imported by Ole & Obrigado

More about Thanksgiving wine:
• Thanksgiving wine 2022
• Thanksgiving wine 2021
• Thanksgiving wine 2020
• Wine of the week: Santa Julia Malbec Organica 2022
• Expensive wine 167: Ameztoi Hondarrabi Zuri 2021