Mini-reviews 175: Black Friday edition 2023

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month: a red, two whites, and a sparkler for Black Friday 2023

• Famille Bougrier Anjou 2021 ($10, purchased, 12%): French white is Hall of Fame quality; the catch is that it’s a Total Wine private label. Otherwise, impeccable chenin blanc from the Loire — a bit of stoniness, a bit of green apple, well balanced, not tart, and refreshing. Imported by Saranty Imports

• Excelsior Syrah 2020 ($10, purchased, 14%): This is the most ordinary of the Excelsior South African wines, which are otherwise terrific values. It’s mostly a supermarket effort, with tar instead of bacon fat and very simple. Imported by Cape Classics

• Fazi Battaglia Verdicchio 2021 ($12, purchased, 12.5%): This Italian white is sort of available — big surprise, huh? Surprisingly creamy for verdicchio; more green apple than citrus, with some almond and lots of minerality. Nicely done. Imported by Palm Bay International

• Wycliff Sparkling Rose NV ($6, purchased, 10.5%): Once more, the WC takes one for the team. This California sparkler is flat, sweet,and flabby, and I’m not sure I’d buy it again even if I wanted a flat, sweet, and flabby sparkler.

Photo: “Black Friday at the mall” by Lars Plougmann is licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0.