Tag Archives: California wine

Mini-reviews 160: Elena Walch, Spanish monastrell, Jaboulet 45, Titus

woman holding wine bottles
“Quick — grab these wines. The WC didn’t hate everything.”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four reds – three of which the WC liked

• Elena Walch Ludwig Pinot Nero 2018 ($40, sample, 13.5%): Earthy, savory Italian pinot noir that bears more than a passing resemblance to red Burgundy – go figure. The fruit is sort of raspberry and the tannins are very reserved. Intriguing wine, but not easy to find (in addition to parsing the cost). Imported by Walch USA

• Castillo del Barón Monastrell 2019 ($9, purchased, 14.2%): This Spanish red, made with monstrell, is reliable from vintage to vintage – not too big or too rough, the tannins aren’t too noticeable, and the black fruit fits in nicely. Just the thing for a hearty weeknight dinner. Imported by Europvin

• Paul Jaboulet Aîné Parallèle “45” 2018 ($15, sample, 14.5%): French Rhone red is legendary for its reliability. So spicy and full with very syrah-driven dark rich fruit. But it’s not too heavy or too ripe, and the alcohol doesn’t show. Needs food. Imported by Fruit of the Vines

• Titus Cabernet Franc 2019 ($52, sample, 14.5%): Gorgeous Napa fruit in this California wine that has been turned into a dark, sweetish, very fruity red that isn’t particularly cabernet franc in style and, as two reviewers noted on Cellar Tracjer (the blogs unofficial wine inventory app), is “smooth.” I want more for $52 than smooth.

Mini-reviews 159: The “Four wines that are popular, but I’m not sure why” edition

Angry man pointing at police
“Yes, you! I want to know why these wines are popular.”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month. This month, four wines that are popular for reasons I can’t figure out.

• Viña Robles The Arborist 2019 ($17, sample, 14.5%): California red blend is noticeably sweet — think chocolate cherry cough syrup. Which, apparently, lots of people like.

• Pasqua 11 Minutes Rose 2020 ($17, sample, 12.5%): Focus group-style Italian rose that is overpriced, underwhelming, and fairly bland — maybe a hint of stone fruit. And the bottle weighs 21 1/2 ounces, much too much. Imported by Pasqua USA

• Stel + Mar Rose NV ($13, sample, 12.7%): Bulk California rose with hipster label, berry fruit, and a touch of sweetness for those who like that. Taste this next to something from a quality producer, and you can tell the difference. And did you know that non-vintage dating is super cool these days?

• Be Human Red Blend 2018 ($15, sample, 14,5%): See the first review. That they taste so much alike, but come from different wine regions (this is Washington state), is just one more reason to worry about the future of the wine business.

Photo: “angry man 1” by Chris Gallagher1 is licensed under CC BY-ND 2.0.

 

Wine of the week: Shannon Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2021

Shannon Ridge sauvignon blanc bottle
Shannon Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2021/$10-$14

Sauvignon blanc offers value and quality – so, yes, it can be done in California

Every once in a while, someone emails to ask why there aren’t more California wines on the blog. The reason, of course, is price – there just aren’t many $15 or less from the Golden State that offer the kind of value and quality that readers here expect.

A very pleasant exception is the Shannon Ridge Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($11, sample, 13.8%). It’s classic California sauvignon blanc at a more than fair price.

That’s possible for a couple of reasons. First, the grapes come from Lake County, where the land is less expensive and allows producers more leeway with pricing. Second, the producer has a history of terrific cheap wine, including the sometimes hard-to-find Wrangler Red.

So let’s count our blessings. The sauvignon blanc features some lemongrass, some lemon zest, some stoniness, and even a little tropical fruit in the middle that doesn’t get in the way. In other words, there’s a lot more going on than most supermarket whites at this price, and no one has sugared it up (another problem with California wine at this price).

Highly recommended, and a candidate for the 2023 Hall of Fame. This is summer wine, chilled, either on its own or with any number of summer salads (grain bowls, even, for younger wine drinkers) or grilled poultry.

 

Wine of the week: Our Daily Cab 2020

Our Daily cab bottle
Our Daily Cab 2020/$7.50-$13

How about a $10 California cabernet sauvignon that tastes like cabernet sauvignon?

A blog reader told me about the Our Daily Wines several years ago, and its red blend has appeared as the wine of the week a couple of times. Somehow, the winery does something that the experts say is impossible in California — it makes quality cheap wine that tastes like wine.

No, these are not high-end Napa or Bordeaux reds, and no one will wax poetic about them in the Winestream Media. But those of us who want an honest, professionally made red wine for dinner will be more than happy.

The 2020 version of Our Daily Cab ($10, purchased, 12.5%) does exactly that – and is much more interesting that I thought it would be, given how difficult it is to make drinkable caberent sauvignon at this price.

It’s a little softer than the red blend, which was surprising, but that’s an advantage. And, save for the fake oak, which it doesn’t need quite so much of, it’s a fine wine (even organic and sulfite-free). There’s some cabernet fruit (plum? cassis?), plus soft tannins and acidity. In this, it’s mostly balanced, something else that’s not easy to do with cabernet at this price.

In this, the wine is much better than it has a right to be. This is summer grilling wine, and just the thing for burgers and brats.

A couple of notes: the 2021 has been released, with a different label, and this is also available in a 1.5 liter box.

Mini-reviews 158: Cleaning out the wine closet

man and woman drinking wineReviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. This month, four wines after cleaning out the wine closet

• Fancy Flock 2020 ($4, purchased, 13%): Is this Spanish red from Aldi worth $4? Probably not — tart, not especially ripe, and rustic in a bad way. The pandemic has not been kind to Aldi’s wine selection. Imported by Mack & Schule

• Signaterra / Benziger Sunny Slope Red 2016 ($49, sample, 14.8%): I’ve been getting a lot of samples lately that aren’t available. Like you can’t buy them at all. No, I don’t understand that approach, either. This is terrific wine, save for that — fruity, rich. herbal, and with soft tannins.

• Tortoise Creek Mission Grove Pinot Noir 2019 ($12, sample, 14.2%): This red is $15 supermarket-style California pinot noir, with all that means — some heat, not much pinot character, and more rich and fruity than it needs to be.

• Apaltagua Envero Gran Reserva Carmenere 2019 ($16, sample, 14%): Solid, professional carmenere, a red from Chile, with all that means — very herbal (almost bell pepper) and not all that much fruit. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Photo: Couple drinking wine, Pavel Danilyuk via Pexels

Father’s Day wine 2022

Father's Day ties
Once more, the Father’s Day tie picture — call me corny, but I love it.

Father’s Day wine 2022: Bring on the well-made and value-oriented wine for Dad

Yes, despite economic uncertainty and all the rest, we found wine for Dad for Father’s Day that fits what we do here — price and value, and not silliness. And don’t forget the blog’s wine gift-giving guidelines — don’t buy someone wine that you think they should like; buy them what they will like.

Father’s Day wine 2022 suggestions:

• Carol Shelton Wild Thing Zinfandel 2018 ($18, purchased, 14.5%): Spot-on California old vine zinfandel (60 years at least) that is somehow jammy (berries and berries and more berries), but not heavy or hot. Having said that it’s a big wine and a mouthful, and needs lots of red meat. Highly recommended.

• Domaine Bousquet Brut NV ($13, sample, 12%): Argentine bubbly with surprising structure, tight-ish bubbles, not too sweet, and apple and lemon fruit. Imported by Origins Organic

• Jean-Pierre Boisson Rose Domaine du Pere Caboche ($11, purchased, 12.5%): Full, rich and surprisingly complex $10 French rose, with almost cranberry fruit and what one tasting note calls grenadine. Highly recommended. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selection

• Chateau La Maroutine Blanc 2020 ($13, purchased, 13%): French white Bordeaux blends sauvignon blanc and semillion; the latter, though only 20 percent, is noticeable, and gives the wine a rounder, less citrsusy feel. Lots of stone and minerality. Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons

More Father’s Day wine:
• Father’s Day wine 2021
• Father’s Day wine 2020
• Father’s Day wine 2019
• Expensive wine 154: Frank Family Merlot 2018

Expensive wine 157: Ridge Geyserville 2018

Ridge Geyserville 2018 bottle
Ridge Geyserville 2018/ $34-$60

One more reason why Ridge may be the best red wine producer in the U.S.

Has it been three years since a Ridge review appeared on the blog?

There’s really no excuse for that, given how much regard I have for Ridge and that it may be the finest U.S. red wine house. Which is even more impressive given that Ridge mostly makes zinfandel and red blends with zinfandel. (Yes, and Monte Bello.)

Case in point: The Ridge Geyserville 2018 ($47, purchased, 14.7%).

The Geyserville is not my favorite Ridge; that’s either the Lytton Springs or the Three Valleys. The former is usually a bit more restrained, while the latter is less expensive (though still a fine wine). I bought this because it’s all that was available in Dallas at the height of the pandemic.

And, of course, I was not disappointed. The wine is a blend of about two-thirds zinfandel, fleshed out with carignane, petite sirah, and alicante bouschet. It was very young when I tasted it last year, but was also very rich — and the two don’t usually go with each other.

Needless to say, there is lots and lots of black fruit — plums, an odd descriptor for zinfandel – as well as blackberries, plus so much else. Maybe some spice, maybe some cedar, maybe some herbs, certainly refined tannins. And even a savory thing.

This is a very pretty wine that should age well, getting more savory as it does. One review said to let it rest for 10 years; if you do, you’re more patient than I am. This is Father’s Day wine, either as a gift or for a holiday dinner or barbecue. Highly recommended.