Tag Archives: Argentine wine

Mini-reviews 156: The geeking out edition

drinking wine
“Yes, the WC is eight. These are geeky wines.”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. This month, four wines that remind us how geeky wine can be

• Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan Großes Gewächs Riesling 2016 ($85, sample, 12%): This German white, which is apparently one of the country’s great wines, showed by magically and mysteriously — maybe a sample from a German wine trade group? It certainly is stunning wine, complex and layered (stone fruit, minerality); frankly, much more than I’m used to tasting. And it should age for years and years. Imported by Banville Wine Merchants

• Gillmore País Mariposa 2019 ($17, sample, 13%): The pais grape — known as mission in the U.S. — is about as trendy as these things get. Having said that, this red wasn’t very interesting. It tasted more like supermarket Beaujolais — some cherry fruit, too tart, yet thin and watery. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Bodega Marichal Tannat 2019 ($16, sample, 13%): This Uruguayan red is adequate tannat — rough-ish and heavy-ish, but not heavy or rough, with some almost cherry fruit and surprising acidity. If you like tannat, you’ll like this. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Tercos Bonarda 2020 ($14, sample, 13.5%): Fine example of bonardo, a little known red grape from Argentina. It’s a little earthy, with some spice and dark fruit, but not heavy. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Photo:”Deya Drinking Wine at Four Point Winery” by nan palmero is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Mini-reviews 154: Funckenhausen, aligote, white pinot noir, Domaine Laroque

holiday giftsReviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. This month, more cleaning out the wine closet.

• Funckenhausen Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 ($15/1-liter, sample, 13.9%): Another in a series of 1-liter wines from this Argentine producer that mostly offer fine value but can be difficult to find. Because, of course, the wine business. A little brambly, soft, and fruity, but not flabby. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Roux Père & Fils Bourgogne-Aligoté 2020 ($18, purchased, 12.5%): Simple French white that is Macon-like, though aligote is a different grape than chardonnay. That means fresh, some citrus, and some minerality — and should cost $12. Imported by Monsieur Touton Selections

• Aniello Blanco de Pinot Noir 2021 ($17, sample, 13%): White pinot noir from Argentina, since white pinot noir is a very wine geeky things these says. Somehow, though, it has tannins — despite being made without the skins (that lend tannins) to make it white.  Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Domaine Laroque Cabernet Franc 2019 ($14, purchased, 13%): I expected this French red to be more stony and edgy (for lack of a better term). Instead, it was soft, with almost violet fruit (again, for lack of a better term).

Wine and food pairings 15: Southwestern-style stew with guacamole and pico de gallo

Artus Wolfaerts - Man Cooking Sausages
I’m cooking these sausages because the WC, once again, neglected to take a picture for this blog post.

The Wine Curmudgeon pairs wine with some of his favorite recipes in this occasional feature. This edition: three wines with a Southwestern-style stew, made with odd cuts of beef and pork.

The pandemic left me with some odd meat in the freezer – a package of beef short ribs with just three ribs, and what are you supposed to do with just three short ribs? There were also two of the saddest thinly sliced pork chops on record, maybe one-quarter of an inch thick at the thickest.

In other words, nothing I could make by itself that would actually be worth eating. So why not cook them together?

And the blog’s Southwestern-style stew was born.

Obviously, you can make this with just short ribs or just pork (shoulder, certainly) or even beef chuck, but it turned out exactly as I hoped. What makes this work is turning the pan drippings into a gravy with an immersion blender. You don’t lose any of the flavor and there’s no sauce-making aggravation.

I served the stew over Israeli couscous and topped each serving with a scoop of pico de gallo and guacamole. Store bought is OK, but it’s better and not that much work to make your own.

Click here to download or print a copy of the recipe. What wines to pair? Fruity reds to stand up to the spices, plus rose, because that’s one of the things rose does so well:

• Henry Fessy Gamay Noir 2020 ($12, purchased, 13.5%): I served this with the stew and it was spot on. This vintage is a little spicier and less ripe than the 2019, but still well done and enjoyable, with quality red fruit. Imported by Louis Latour

• Santa Julia Malbec Organica Rose 2020 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): This Argentine pink, a long-time blog favorite, is as it always is — crisp, a bit tart, a bit stony, and with strawberry fruit. Imported by Winesellers Ltd.

• Funckenhausen Red Blend 2020 ($15/1-liter, purchased, 13.9%): Funckenhausen, an Argentine producer, does several 1-liter wines made for everyday drinking. And it’s not damning with faint praise to say this wine, mostly malbec, is not the best; rather, it’s still professional and well made and perfect for this dish. Some berry fruit, a little tart, and not too soft. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

Blog associate editor Churro contributed to this post.

More about wine and food pairings:
• Wine and food pairings 14: Mom’s chicken parmigiana
• Wine and food pairings 13: Crawfish etouffee
• Wine and food pairings 12: Hot dogs

Photo: “Artus Wolfaerts – Man Cooking Sausages” by irinaraquel is licensed under CC PDM 1.0

Slider photo: “Rome Elite Event: wine, food and nice people” by Yelp.com is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Mini-reviews 152: The night before Christmas Eve Edition

rudolph
Not even the WC is clever enough to turn wine shipping holders into Rudolph — and I certainly get enough of them.

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. This month, a day early because of Christmas.

• Cline Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($14, purchased, 14%): I’m not sure what this tastes like (Italian pinot grigio, maybe?), but it certainly doesn’t taste like California sauvignon blanc. Plus, the higher alcohol is noticeable and the bottle is way too heavy — 22 ounces, or about one-third more than it needs to be. And Cline was once a top-notch $10 wine producer.

• Ricardo Santos El Malbec 2019 ($20, sample, 13.5%): Interesting approach to Argentine malbec — some oak, some spice, much less fruity and made to age, more in the style of Bordeaux. Imported by Global Vineyard Importers

• Textbook Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($30, sample, 13.3%): This, I suppose, is what passes for entry-level Napa cabernet these days. Professionally made, hitting all the notes it’s supposed to hit (rich, dark berries, some oak, some spice, leaning toward fruit over acid and tannins), and made with quality grapes. But a value? Only if you really like Napa cabernet.

• Satellite Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($13, purchased, 13$): New Zealand white is the second label from highly-regarded Spy Valley, and it sits about halfway between that and all those supermarket “Bay” sauvignon blancs. That means less overtly grapefruit, but still citrusy, but a little softer and more tropical in the middle. Imported by Broadbent Wines

Photo: “Rudolph the Wine Holder” by edenpictures is licensed under CC BY 2.0

Christmas wine 2021

christmas wine 2020
“Yes, I know he used this picture last year. But it still does the job, yes? And maybe I can finally get a royalty.”

Four recommendations for Christmas wine 2021

Once again, the blog’s Christmas wine suggestions — whether for a last minute gift, something to drink when you just want a glass, or a holiday dinner. As always, keep our wine gift giving tips in mind — and don’t overlook the blog’s 2021 holiday gift guide (blog subscriptions, hint, hint).

These wines will get you started:

• Domaine Bousquet Brut Rose NV ($13, sample, 12%): This isn’t quite the stunner that the previous version was, but it’s still a fine value sparkling wine. Look for quality bubbles, some red fruit and a bit of citrus. The finish is a bit tart. Imported by Origins Organic Imports

• Domaine du Séminaire Côtes du Rhône 2019 ($17, purchased, 14.5%): This red is a balanced, structured and almost subtle Cote du Rhone from France. That means lots of berry fruit and some spice (licorice?) and maybe even some garrigue. Plus, of course, since we’re hipsters here, it uses concrete tanks. Imported by Martine’s Wines

• Moulin de Gassac Guilhem Rosé 2020 ($10, purchased, 12.5%): This is the rose from this French producer, and is almost as impressive. Look for more fruit tan expected (strawberries), plus a touch savory, and almost stony on the back. Imported by Polaner Selections

• Château Boisson Blanc 2018 ($12, purchased, 13%): Dependable white Bordeaux — fresh, lots of citrus, some minerality on the back. It’s not subtle, but it is professionally made and won’t disappoint if you’re looking for something white that tastes French. Imported by Virtuoso Selections

More about Christmas wine:
• Christmas wine 2019
• Christmas wine 2018
• Christmas wine 2017
• Wine of the week: Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc 2021
• Expensive wine 149: Vina Maquis Viola 2014

Photo: “guardian of wine” by marcostetter is marked with CC PDM 1.0

Wine of the week: Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV

Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut/$10-$13

The Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose is a first-rate Argentine bubbly — and a terrific value

Know two things about this wine: First, it’s difficult to find quality dry sparkling wine made with the charmat method, and especially at this price. Second, I should have reviewed it months ago – it’s that well done.

So consider this a wholehearted endorsement of the Argentine Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose NV ($12, sample, 12%). In fact, I didn’t expect to like it, and I couldn’t have been more wrong. Which is why the first rule of wine criticism (as I always remind myself) is to taste the wine before judging it.

Too much charmat sparkling is soft, has flabby bubbles, and doesn’t have enough acidity or fruit to balance its sweetness. None of that is the case here. Even more remarkable is that the wine is made with two grapes – pinot noir (75 percent) and chardonnay (25 percent) – that don’t necessarily do well in Argentina.

Nevertheless, it works here. Look for lots of fresh red berry fruit from the pinot noir as well as a pleasant, almost citrus aroma. The chardonnay adds body and acidity; the residual sugar is as high as some sweeter tasting sparklers, but the sweetness isn’t obvious here. And the bubbles are first-rate, tight and small.

Highly recommended, and almost certain to enter the $10 Hall of Fame in January. Chill this and drink it on its own, or pair it with almost anything you’d drink rose still wine with. And be glad I finally remembered to review it.

Imported by Origins Organic Imports

Mother’s Day wine 2021

mother's day 2021
“Remember — buy me what you think I’ll like, and not what you think I should drink.”

Four suggestions — white, sparkling, rose, and red — for Mother’s Day 2021

The blog’s 15th annual Mother’s Day wine post reminds me of a couple of things, but mostly that I always need to write about wines that my mom will enjoy (and won’t have too much trouble finding in a store near her).

So, as always, the emphasis is on valuer and quality, with the reminder that we should buy Mom something she will enjoy and not something we think she should drink. These Mother’s Day wine suggestions should get you started:

• Balletto Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($20, sample, 13.1%): This is classic California sauvignon blanc, which isn’t easy to find any more. That means a wonderful aroma of grassiness with a hint of melon, lemon fruit but not particularly tart, and a long, minerally finish. Highly recommended (and even worth doing a Zoom tasting to sample).

• Ackerman Marquis de la Tour Brut NV ($10, purchased, 11%): Terrific cheap bubbly from France’s Loire that’s made with chardonnay, chenin blanc, and – believe it or not – ugni blanc. It’s soft, a little sweet (honey?), with lemon and apple fruit. But the bubbles are tight, even though it’s charmat. Very nicely done. Imported by Palm Bay International

• Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare 2020 ($15, sample, 13.5%): This California pink, always one of my favorites, was a little less Doonish last vintage. But this is as it should be: Stony, almost austere, with a hint of barely ripe strawberry fruit to remind you it’s rose, as well as a very long and very clean finish. Highly recommended.

• Tinto Negro Malbec 2019 ($10, sample, 13.5%): I’ve probably tasted more Argentine malbecs during the pandemic than the past couple of years combined; the quality, as with this wine, has been much better than expected. It’s a bright, fresh and not too jammy red, with lots of blueberry fruit. But it’s not overdone and there is plenty of acidity and even a little spice to back it up. Very professional rendering of this style. Imported by Vineyard Brands

Photo: Thiago Cerqueira, via Unsplash

More about Mother’s Day wine:
• Mother’s Day wine 2020
• Mother’s Day wine 2019
• Mother’s Day wine 2018
• Expensive wine 140: WillaKenzie Estate Chardonnay 2018
• Wine of the week: Garofoli Macrina 2019