Wine of the week: Henry Fessy Gamay Noir 2019

Not even the Trump tariff and almost surreal availability have stopped this wine from offering quality, terroir, and value

The Henry Fessy wines have a long and odd history on the blog. The 2016 vintage of this Frenvh red was on closeout for about six months at a Dallas retailer and I drank a lot of it.

Then it disappeared, and that was the only time I’ve seen Henry Fessy wines for sale in Dallas – even though the importer and Texas wholesaler have national reach.

So on-line retailers, where I got this and the 2019 Fessy old vines Beaujolais — which was undrinkable. That’s what 14.5 percent alcohol, to get around the Trump tariff, did for the wine.

So when I bought the Fessy Gamay Noir 2019 ($12, purchased, 13.5%), I didn’t expect much. That’s the way of the wine world these days, isn’t it?

Turns out that I had no reason to worry. The Gamay Noir is made from the gamay grape that’s used in Beaujolais But the gamay in this wine comes from throughout France. In this, all was as it should be. That means a bright, fresh wine with berry fruit that wasn’t especially ripe, plus soft tannins and refreshing acidity. Yes, it was a touch thin in the back, but after the Beaujolais, who’s complaining?

Chill this ever so slightly and drink it on its own or with anything that used to be called bistro cuisine – steak frites, roast chicken, or even pizza.

Imported by Louis Latour