Category:Uncategorized

Colorado Governor’s Judging

? What is it? The first year for a competition to select wines for a fund-raiser to help preserve the Colorado governor’s residence.

? When and where: July 31, 2010, Denver

? Biggest surprise: I’ve never judged a competition in its first year. It was kind of fun, as we picked our way through the process.

? What’s different: The scoring. Steve Menke, the state enologist, wanted to try and eliminate some of the bias that studies have found in judging. So, though we used a standard 20-point system, Steve did all sorts of mathematical thises and thats to arrive at a fair conclusion. It was quite fascinating, actually, and we briefly discussed doing a study to find the best way to judge wines at a competition. Grant money, anyone?

? Who I judged with: A rotating group that included Bill Musgnung, one of Colorado’s top winemakers.

? Compensation: An honorarium (have not received it yet), plus travel, meal and lodging expenses.

? Overall: The quality of Colorado wines has improved since I last judged in the state three or four years ago. It’s not so much that the wines tasted better; rather, that winemakers better understand how to deal with Colorado’s unique wine growing environment. They not only have to take into account high altitude, but odd weather. The cabernet francs, for example, seem fuller and less austere than those I had the last time, and that’s good to see.

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An Internet toast to Domaine du Tariquet

The Wine Curmudgeon loves wines from Gascony. They're cheap, well-made and use grapes that most people people have never heard of — in short, my kind of wine.

And Domaine du Tariquet is one of the best of those Gascon producers. So imagine my more than pleasant surprise when Tom Johnson at Louisville Juice featured Tariquet this week: "Domaine du Tariquet has developed, over the years, a reputation for innovation."

Thanks, Tom.

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Lone Star International Wine Competition 2010

Used to be, when the Wine Curmudgeon judged the Lone Star International Wine Competition, I judged Texas wines. Not anymore, as the event — still the preeminent wine competition for Texas wines — has truly become international. There were 577 wines from 17 states and 11 countries.

And some damned fine ones, as well, including an $80 syrah from Napa's Cakebread Cellars. And yes, it won a gold medal.

This was easily the best Lone Star competition since I started judging it five years ago. My report is here. What's important to note is that the Texas wines that won golds — which included a barbera from Becker Vineyards in the Hill Country and a tempranillo blend from Llano Estacado in west Texas — are excellent examples of what Texas can do with grapes that aren't cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay. That is the future of Texas wine, and it's good to see these wines rewarded for their efforts in helping Texas wine secure the future.

Lone Star International Wine Competition 2010

? What is it? The preeminent wine competition for Texas wines,
and one that has grown significantly in its 27 years. This year, we
judged 577 wines — up 30 percent from 2009 — and included wine from 17
states and 11 countries.

? When and where: June 7-8, 2010,
Grapevine, Texas

? Biggest surprise: The quality
of the entries, which included some well-known and even famous wines
from places other than Texas. That has almost never happened. Napa’s
Cakebread Cellars entered its 2007 Carneros syrah, an $80 wine, and we
were joking that it may have been the most expensive wine ever entered
in the Lone Star. (Yes, it won a gold medal.)

? What’s
different
: The same Texas wineries that usually dominate didn’t.
That wasn’t a reflection of a lack of quality; rather, that so many
other good wines were entered. We also had a several dozen wines from Gallo and its subsidiaries, as well as another big California producer, Underdog (which makes Fish Eye, among others).

? Who I judged with: My
pal John Bratcher, the other Wine
Guy
; Jon Davis of Hear Hear Wines, a Fort Worth distributor; Mirek
von Springer, who works for Dallas retailer Goody Goody; and Mary Ann
Willis of Glazer’s, the big distributor. Our panel moderator was Bob
Klocek of the
Grapevine Wine Pouring Society
, who did his usual outstanding job.

? Compensation:
The competition paid for lunch both days.

? Overall:
The best Lone Star competition since I started judging it five years
ago. Much of the credit must go to Michael Zerbach and sommelier Barbara Werley,
who co-chair the event, and have made a concerted effort to expand the
quality of the entries. Especially impressive among the Texas wins were
the Peter’s Praire barbera from Becker Vineyards, the Raider tempranillo
blend from Llano Estacado, and McPherson’s Rose of Syrah. All won gold
medals, and are excellent examples of what Texas can do with grapes that
aren’t cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay. I’ll link to the complete results when they bvecome available.

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International Eastern Wine Competition

? What is it? One of the most important regional wine competitions in the United States, and one that includes international and California wines. Some 2,200 were entered, and my panel judged about 250 over two days. During the third day, we judged the top wines for best of show honors.

? When and where: May 19-21, 2010, Watkins Glen, N.Y.

? Biggest surprise: Not the quality of the wine, which is usually top notch, but the depth of the quality of the wine. Typically, at an event like this, the quality isn’t very deep. In this case, though, over two days and 36 flights of wine, there were only three or four flights I tasted that were truly not good — including some expensive pinot noirs.

? What’s different: I had to oversee my judging group on the second day. It’s a long story why; it’s enough to note that being a table moderator involves a lot of paperwork (someone has to record the scores) and some math, and that the Wine Curmudgeon enjoys neither. But we got the job done, and the people on my panel were speaking to me when the day ended, which is always a good sign.

? Who I judged with: On day one, Fred LeBrun of the Albany Times Union; Chip Cassidy, a Florida retailer; Anna Katharine Mansfield, a Cornell University enologist; and Steve DiFrancesco, the winemaker at Glenora Winery in New York. On day two, Dave McIntyre of the Washington Post and my cohort in DrinkLocalWine.com; Stephanie Johnson, the wine director for City Winery in Manhattan; and Zoran Ljepovi of Constellation Wines.

? Compensation: The competition paid for food, lodging and airfare (and is put on by the company that owns Vineyard & Winery Management magazine, which I freelance for).

? Overall: This is one of my favorite competitions to judge, because I get to taste a lot of wine that isn’t cabernet, chardonnay or merlot. In addition, it’s a treat to be around other people who feel that way and who believe that the future of wine in the United States is not about more of the same from California, but about what happens with regional wine. Results are here — the Konstantin Frank late harvest riesling was worthy of all the awards it won.

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The $5 wine tasteoff

This story ran in the Star-Telegram newspaper in Fort Worth in January. I put together a panel of six ordinary wine drinking consumers, and we tasted eight wines that cost less than $5 a bottle and then discussed whether they offered value.

The story elicited some of the most heated comment of any newspaper piece I’ve ever written, and that includes my political stuff. Surprisingly (to me, anyway), much of the comment wasn’t favorable. One reader told me that the story was a joke, that I should be ashamed to call myself a professional, and that only someone who knew nothing about wine could recommend something that was sold at Walgreen’s.

In this, that reader (and the others who felt the same way, though with less vitriol) were showing just how much the wine business has warped American consumers. If it isn’t expensive, if it doesn’t have a good score, and if it doesn’t have status, then it isn’t worth drinking. You don’t even have to taste it first.

Tom Johnson, a regular visitor here, has a fine post at Palate Press that asks why wine blogs aren’t more popular, and I think the reaction to this story is part of the answer. Too many wine blogs don’t interest wine drinkers; they interest wine snobs, and there aren’t as many of the latter as there are of the former.

I can’t send you to the Star-Telegram story, because the link has expired. But I’ve posted a version of the story after the jump, minus a Texas wine that isn’t available nationwide, so you can judge for yourself:

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Thank you from the Wine Curmudgeon

The blog is on track to have its best month ever — 20 percent more than January 2010, which had been the previous best month. In this, it recorded its two best days ever on Feb. 3 and 4. I'm flattered that so many of you are reading and visiting. Thank you. Those numbers — that people are paying attention and want to know about wine in a way that they can understand — make this worthwhile.