Category:Sparkling wine

Wine of the week: Lamberti Prosecco Vino Spumante Extra Dry NV

The Wine Curmudgeon does not drink much Italian sparkling wine. This disappoints two of my favorite people in the wine business, who see qualities like lightness and charm where I see fizziness and dullness. So this wine is their holiday gift.

That's because the Lamberti (sample, $15) manages to be very Italian and yet still offer some backbone and sturdiness that too many Italian sparklers don't have. The Lamberti is simple and light with a hint of apple fruit, but it's not too sweet and it's bubblier than many other proseccos. Italian sparkling wine usually doesn't have wave after wave of small, tight bubbles rising to the top of the glass, which I love and which seems to be the sign of quality bubbly.

Hence my pleasant surprise at how well this wine was made, and especially at this price. Drink the Lamberti to welcome in the New Year, with any sort of holiday brunch, as an aperitif, or with a mid-week dinner (white pizza or spaghetti with clam sauce).

New Year’s sparkling wine 2010

image from www.openclipart.org Keep two things in mind when you pick a Champagne or sparkling wine for this week's festivities. First, bubbly has a language of its own, where extra dry means sweeter than dry and brut is the word for dry. Our sparkling wine glossary explains all, and the 2009 New Year's post explained the difference between the world's various sparkling wines.

Second, enjoy sparkling wine more than once a year. Please? The Wine Curmudgeon has never understood why Americans drink such nice wine once a year. It's food friendly, which should not be surprising since most of it is made with chardonnay and pinot noir, perhaps the two most food-friendly grapes. It's fun to drink, what with all those wonderful bubbles, and it tastes good. And how often do I say something tastes good? More, after the jump:

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Wine of the week: Cristalino NV

Regular visitors here will notice that there is no picture of Cristalino. Welcome to the wonderful world of American jurisprudence and the foolishness of the wine business.

In August, a federal district court in Minneapolis ruled that Cristalino, which is a much beloved $7 Spanish sparkling wine, infringed on the trademark of Cristal, a Champagne that costs about $200 a bottle and is favored by people who drive Escalades. Or, as the attorneys for Champagne Louis Roederer, the French luxury brand that owns Cristal, wrote: “The Defendants ? use of CRISTALINO on their sparkling wine product is an illegitimate brand extension that trades on the reputation and image of the famous mark, CRISTAL. Consumers likely believe that CRISTALINO sparkling wine is associated with, sponsored by, or is in some way connected with the maker of the prestige champagne CRISTAL.”

Sigh. And people wonder why the Wine Curmudgeon is so cranky. The Champagne business has been in tatters since the recession started, and Roederer decided to spend money on this lawsuit? The judge, in deciding the case, wrote that there was evidence that consumers could be confused, and if my reading of the law is correct, that was enough to decide in Roederer’s favor. It didn’t matter whether Cristal lost sales to Cristalino (which was unclear). Cristalino had to redesign and re-label its bottle, which is now white and includes a disclaimer that says it isn’t affiliated with Roederer or Cristal.

So this is what I’m going to do: Never drink a bottle of Cristal (which isn’t a problem, since I can’t afford it). Never, after this moment, write about or review a Roederer product, which include Roederer and Scharffenberger sparkling wines in California, a half a dozen or so French still wine brands, and the Portuguese Ramos Pinto label. And, of course, welcome Cristalino (purchased) into the 2011 $10 Hall of Fame, because it offers everything Cristal doesn’t — quality and value. And, yes, it would quite nice at Thanksgiving.

Mini-reviews 17: Gloria Ferrer, Hugel, Clos de los Siete, Trapiche

Reviews of wines that don't need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the final Friday of each month.

? Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Noir NV ($20, sample): Sparkling wine of the year at this year's Indy International (my panel picked it), and one of the best made California bubblies I've ever tasted. How nice is this wine? We had two Frenchmen on the panel, and they loved it as much as I did.

? Hugel Pinot Gris "Hugel" Tradition 2006 ($15, sample): Very lemon lime and much fruiter than I expected an Alsatian pinot gris to be. Having said that, it's another fine effort from one of my favorite Alsatian producers.

? Clos de los Siete 2008 ($19, sample): This Argentine red blend is made by the infamous Michel Rolland, who takes extraction and fruitiness to new levels. Call him the Jerry Bruckheimer of the wine world; if blowing up one building isn't enough, he'll blow up another. If you like this style — lots of fruit, oak and alcohol — you'll adore this wine.

? Trapiche Pinot Noir 2008 ($8, sample): The Wine Curmudgeon doesn't understand why producers make $8 pinot noir, since it's almost impossible to make it taste like pinot noir. This Argentine label tastes more like pinot than some of its contemporaries, but it still isn't very pinot. But if you want a well-made $8 red wine, you could do a lot worse.

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Expensive wine 17: Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV

The Wine Curmudgeon held out as long as he could. But the most important special occasion of the year was coming up, and the fact that Ruinart’s price, thanks to the weak dollar and the shortsighted Champagne business, had increased by 16 percent in 18 months was no excuse.

Sometimes, even I have to admit that spending a lot of money for a bottle of wine is worth it. The Ruinart ($84, purchased) was everything it has always been, and even a little more. The bottle was gone in 45 minutes, despite our best efforts to make it last. And I swear that the wine changed at least three times during that period. It was bit tight but still excellent when we opened it, becoming more caramel after 20 minutes or so. And then, when there was but two glasses left, it delivered bright and amazing pear fruit followed by some kind of lemon something or other.

This is sparkling wine to celebrate with, even at this price. Highly recommended. And the food pairing? Popeye’s fried chicken, actually. It worked quite well (as I always told my students it would). And if Popeye’s isn’t what it once was, it’s still worth reckoning with.

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Mini-reviews 16: Helfrich, Natura, Segura, Saintsbury

Reviews of wines that don ?t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the final Friday of each month.

? Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2009 ($15, sample): Too much gewurztraminer tastes like riesling these days, which means sweet and not very interesting. That's not the case with the Helfrich, a leading Alsatian producer. It's spicy, almost clove-like; sweet but balanced; and has an impressive mineral finish.

? Natura Chardonnay 2009 ($12, sample): This Chilean white is made with organic grapes, and isn't bad for what tastes like warm climate chardonnay. Look for tropical fruit at the back, and more oak than it probably needs.

? Segura Viudas Brut Rose NV ($10, sample): This is one of the best-made $10 Spanish sparkling wines that I've had in years — which is saying something, given the quality of $10 cava. So what's it doing in a mini-review? Limited availability, of course. It's fruitier and less closed than most Spanish bubblies, and somehow has a few French-like qualities. Highly recommended.

? Saintsbury Carneros Chardonnay 2008 ($20, sample): Screwcap. Fresh acidity. Bright pear fruit. Proper amount of oak. In other words, everything too many California chardonnays aren't. And yes, it's a value, even at this price.

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Wine terms: Champagne and sparkling wine

champagneWine terms are confusing enough on their own, but the terms for champagne and sparkling wine offer their own style of confusion. For one thing, thanks to a trade agreement between the United States and the European Union, only sparkling wine that is made in the Champagne region of France can be called Champagne.

But that’s only the beginning. This glossary of champagne and sparkling wine terms — in honor of my old pal Darryl Beeson, who always enjoyed a fine glass of the bubbles — will answer most questions.

The good news about these terms is that they extend across the entire sparkling wine spectrum, regardless of where the wine is made. And bubbly is made throughout the world, though many people still tend to think that the best is from Champagne. (The Wine Curmudgeon loves Champagne, though he doesn’t love the prices.)

As noted, only wine made in the Champagne region of France can be called Champagne, even if it’s made elsewhere in France — and bubbly is made almost everywhere in France. Some French sparklers, like those from Burgundy, Alsace or the Loire, are called cremant, so don’t be intimidated if you see that word on the label.

Sparkling wine made in Spain is called cava, and in Italy it’s usually called Prosecco or Asti. In the U.S. and most of the rest of the New World, you’ll see sparkling wine on the label, save for some older brands like Korbel. They were grandfathered in as part of the U.S.-E.U. trade agreement.

These are the terms common to sparkling wine throughout the world:

• Methode champenoise or Methode traditionelle: The wine was made in the Champagne style, where the second fermentation takes place in the bottle. All wine, including bubbly, is fermented, which is when the sugar in the grape juice is converted to alcohol. The second fermentation, which still wine doesn’t have, produces the bubbles. Wines made this way will have one of these terms listed on the label. Most of the world’s great Champagnes and sparkling wines are made this way.

• Charmat: This is the other primary production technique, in which the second fermentation takes place in a steel tank. It’s typically used for Italian and lower-priced American sparkling wines. The term usually doesn’t appear on the label (though that is changing). Charmat produces sweeter wines with less bubbles, though it can produce its share of quality wines, especially from Italy.

• Vintage: One trend among high-priced sparklers is to produce vintage wines, made with grapes that were all harvested in the same year. But the majority of sparkling wine doesn’t have a vintage, and most of the time the vintage isn’t especially important. NV on the label stands for non-vintage — that is, the grapes used to make the wine come from several years instead of just one. It’s a common practice to ensure quality and consistency. This is a carryover from the Champagne region, where the weather is such that it’s not always easy to grow quality grapes.

• Brut: Brut means the wine is dry, in the same way that still wines are dry. It’s a French term that the industry has adopted. One caveat about brut: One producer’s definition is not necessarily the same as another, and the same holds true across regions. Some wines labeled as brut, like Italian, aren’t as dry as other brut wines, like those from France or Spain.

• Extra dry: The wine is sweeter than brut. No, it doesn’t make any sense, but that’s the term.

• Sec, demi-sec, and doux: These wines are sweeter than extra dry, with doux the sweetest. Generally, we don’t see many of these wines in the U.S.

Photo: “Champagne from Anna” by Ali Elan is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 

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