Wine scores not only refuse to die, but seem to be increasing like the spawn of the devil

One retailer lists 16 ratings systems – and that doesn’t include a couple of the most popular

The blog, in its own small way, has accomplished great things over the years – helping to launch Drink Local and popularizing rose, to name just two.

But I haven’t – despite repeated and furious efforts – been able to put a stake in wine scores. Or, even, sort of sharpen a stake.

This failure came into focus with an email from Wine.com – differentiating between the 16 different wine scoring systems it uses on its site.

16? 16??? 16???

Yes, 16. And this didn’t include Britain’s Jancis Robinson and her 20-point system or Natalie MacLean’s 100-point ratings that are used throughout Canada.

How did we get to the point – given how useless scores are for the vast majority of wine drinkers – that at least 16 are used widely?

Because they truly are useless for most wine drinkers: They discriminate against white wine. They discriminate against less expensive wines. They discriminate against wines that aren’t from the proper region or made with the proper grapes. And, perhaps most importantly, they reflect the critic’s perceptions and prejudices, which are almost certainly not those of most wine drinkers.

Yet we’re stuck with them, despite the best efforts of many, including me.

The reasons why we’re stuck with them have also been well documented: First, as a crutch for retailers and especially the big chains and supermarkets that increasingly dominate wine sales. Second, help for smaller producers without marketing budgets; a 92 from one of the 16 might attract buyers who would not otherwise notice the wine (though whether they’ll like the wine is a different story). Third, the reviewers are so damned powerful because of reasons one and two.

So what can we do? About the same thing we’ve been doing, and try not to lose sight of our purpose – help wine drinkers find wine they will like, and not wine others tell them they should like. Because even Wine.com has a blurb next to those rankings: “While ratings may influence your decision, the ultimate judgment is your palate.”

Couldn’t have said it better myself.