Wine of the week: La Chapelle du Bastion Picpoul 2021

This French white, made with a lesser known grape, is just the thing for the end of summer

How do we know that picpoul, a French white grape, is just the thing for those of us looking for value and quality? Wine-Searcher, hardly shy about catering to the 1 percent (“The most expensive wines in the world”!), notes that almost all of the most popular picpouls on its site cost less than $15, and several are less than $10.

So yes, picpoul, for value and quality – even in these days of “we’re going to charge more just to charge more.”

Ironically, I’ve reviewed very few picpouls over the years. But now that I have started to do more, the La Chapelle du Bastion 2021 ($12, purchased, 13%) shows what I was missing when I didn’t taste enough of them.

The wine is less lipsmackingingly tart than picpoul is supposed to be (insert obligatory reference about picpoul’s meaning in English). Which, actually, is a pleasant surprise, since that leaves room for other qualities. Yes, it’s lemony, but there is also what seems to be some tropical fruit in the middle as well as a bone dry and long finish.

Highly recommended, and candidate for the Hall of Fame next year as well as the 2022 Cheap Wine of the Year. Chill this, drink it on its own or enjoy it with end of the summer grilled vegetables or chicken.

Imported by Monsieur Tonton Selection