Tag Archives: South African wine

2022 Cheap Wine of the Year: Scaia Rosato 2020

scaia rose 2020
Scaia Rosato 2020/$5-$15

Italy’s Scaia Rosato 2020 is the blog’s fifth annual Cheap Wine of the Year

The Scaia Rosato is probably best known for its glass bottle stopper, which speaks volumes about how the wine business works. Yes, the stoppers are an enticing novelty, but to overlook what’s in the bottle because of that is silly.

Even for the wine business.

So know that the Scaia Rosato 2o20 ($10, purchased, 12.5%) is so much more than its glass closure. First, it’s a quintessential Italian pink wine — bright, a bit rich, and even a little savory. In this, it’s made with rondinella, a little known grape even given how many little known grapes there are in Italy.

Even better than that, it delivered quality and value that few other wines — rose or otherwise — delivered in 2021. Hence, the Scaia Rosato 2020 is the blog’s fifth annual cheap wine of the year.

The Scaia has always been a blog favorite, and the Dallas retailer that carries it almost always sells out quickly. But the 2020 is even better than usual — sort of floral and even pretty, which is a descriptor I rarely use, with raspberry fruit and a sort of tangy-ness. As such, it’s more interesting and much more than just a pink wine to drink because it’s a well made pink wine.

Best yet, there appears to be lots and lots available. This has often been a problem with the Scaia, which sometimes arrives in the U.S in mid-summer instead of spring with the rest of the roses. So buy this to drink year round — whether on its own, with something like pizza, a variety of chicken dishes, and even roasted mushrooms.

Imported by Dallas Terra

More Cheap Wine of the Year:
• 2021 Cheap Wine of the Year: MAN Chenin Blanc 2019
• 2020 Cheap Wine of the Year: Le Coeur de la Reine Gamay 2017
• 2019 Cheap Wine of the Year: Château La Gravière Blanc 2017

Wine of the week: Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap Red 2019

wolftrap red
The Wolftrap Red/$7-$16

This South African Rhone-style red blend is fresh and spicy – did someone say Christmas dinner?

Know two things about this wine: I had to check my notes every time I typed Boekenhoutskloof, to make sure it was spelled correctly, and that it was worth all the double checking. This South African red blend is one example of the quality and value that the country’s wines deliver these days.

Boekenhoutskloof’s The Wolftrap ($10, purchased, 14.5%) is a blend of syrah, mourvedre, and viognier, with mostly the former and just a bit of the latter. Using those three grapes is typically Rhone, though the proportions make it very specific to the producer, the terroir, and what the producer is trying to do with the wine. What matters is that the ratio works.

What impressed me the most was that even though the alcohol was high, it wasn’t a problem, and that even though something that tastes like oak is more obvious than I like, it wasn’t a problem, either. The whole was greater than the sum of its parts.

Look for lots of fruit (berries? plums?), but not so much that the fruit is all that is going on. There’s some of the traditional bacon fat feeling that syrah can add, as well as a fair amount of spice.

A food wine – just the thing for red meat, a holiday dinner, and even leftover steak sandwiches.

Imported by Vineyard Brands

Is chenin blanc finally becoming respectable?

chenin blanc
“Man, that WC is right again. This chenin blanc is terrific.”

One leading wine writer says South Africa’s chenin is some of the world’s most enjoyable white wine

The Wine Curmudgeon has long advocated for chenin blanc, which has usually been derided as too geeky, too insipid, or not chardonnay. Or, of course, all three.

So imagine my pleasure when the well-respected Sara Schneider wrote – in the upscale Robb Report, of all places – that chenin blanc deserved all the respect that it hasn’t been getting, and then signaled out South African chenin blanc.

Thank you, Sara.

Chenin from France’s Loire has long been respected, but also known as the exception that proves the rule. Yes, wines like Savennieres are terrific, so why bother with anything else?

This is crap, of course, and I’ve been writing about cheap terrific chenin for years, including and especially from South Africa. The 2019 MAN chenin was the blog’s 2021 Cheap Wine of the Year.

The Robb Report story expands on that in wondrous glory, including an interview with the legendary Ken Forrester, whose chenin is so well done that it used to be almost impossible to buy in much of this country. Because, of course, it’s chenin blanc.

So, in honor of all that South African chenin blanc praise, here are four terrific $10ish South African chenins:

• The MAN 2020 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): Mostly as well done as the 2019 — some citrus, some minerality, but a softer mouth fee. And points to MAN for still calling the wine Steen, which is what all South African chenin used to be called. Imported by Vineyard Brands

• Linton Park White Rhino 2019 ($10, purchased, 12%): Some chenin producers aim for sweet, but there isn’t any sugar here. It’s lemony, tart, very dry, and almost rustic. Imported by SolStars, Inc.

• Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2019 ($15, purchased, 13%): Delicious – apple and lime fruit, but not too soft or sweet. Imported by Broadbent Selections

• Spier Signature Chenin Blanc 2019 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): Total Wine private label that was much better than expected – fresh, crisp, and lemony. Not as stony as I like, but well made and enjoyable. Imported by Saranty Imports

Photo: Kelsey Chance on Unsplash 

Update: Porch wine for the long, hot summer

porch wine
“I found the porch — you bring the wine. What does the WC suggest?”

With record temperatures in much of the country this summer, it’s time to update the blog’s porch wine post

Over the years, I’ve gotten less than favorable comments about the idea of porch wine — because, of course, wine is entirely too serious for porch sipping. Sigh. Is it any wonder I worry about the future of the wine business?

Which is just more wine snobbery. Why should the pleasure of a shaded porch and the hint of a cool breeze be reserved for iced tea, beer, and whatever else is currently popular? I find the idea of porch wine especially relevant this summer, what with the record-breaking heat in much of the country, the pandemic, and all of the other foolishness we have had to endure. So, this porch wine update.

So know this about porch wine: It’s about lighter wines, red and white (and of course, rose), that are lower in alcohol and that offer relief from the heat. The idea with a porch wine is to drink something that won’t make the sweat bead on your forehead. The blog’s original porch post is here, and there is even a porch wine terms post.

And it’s OK to add an ice cube. Honest.

• The Beachhouse Sauvignon Blanc 2020 ($10, purchased, 13%): This white is a simple, not too grapefruit-y South African sauvignon blanc, which has an almost pleasant bitterness in the back. The minute I tasted it, I knew it was perfect for this post. Imported by Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits

• Moillard Chablis Coquillage 2018 ($25, purchased, 13%): Yes, this is expensive (though without the Trump tariff, the price may come down). But it’s also a perfect porch wine — well-made chardonnay from the Chablis region of France that is flinty, lemony, crisp. Imported by Advantage International

• Stemmari Sicilia Rose 2019 ($8, purchased, 12%): There’s nothing especially Italian about this pink; it’s just well-made rose in the international style — think Washington state. That means fresh, fruity (strawberry), and clean, but not much esle. Still, it is more than enjoyable. Imported by Prestige Wine Imports

• Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet 2019 ($16, purchased, 12%): Well-executed French white (made with the underrated melon de bourgogne grape) that is round in the mouth, but not soft. There’s a bit of structure and apple and pear fruit. Imported by LDM Wines

Photo: “Porch” by sonjalovas is licensed under CC BY 2.0

More about porch wine:
• Memorial Day and rose 2021
• Wine when the air conditioning is replaced
• Wine of the week: Vinho verde 2021
• Wine of the week: Vision Gruner Veltliner 2019

Fourth of July wine 2021

Let’s help the WC find quality cheap wine for Fourth of July

Fourth of July wine 2021: Four bottles to enjoy for Independence Day

The Wine Curmudgeon, several readers have noted, usually doesn’t choose U.S. wines for the annual Fourth of July post. Mostly, that’s because of price and availability. This year, though, I found one — as well as quality cheap wines from elsewhere in the world.

And, as always, keep our summer and porch wine guidelines in mind for this time of year. Consider these Fourth of July wine 2021 suggestions:

• Parducci Cabernet Sauvignon Small Lot 2018 ($13, purchased, 14.5%): Competent, professionally-made California cabernet sauvignon with all the requisite traits — lots of ripe, red fruit (sweet cherries?), soft-ish tannins, a hint of some kind of oak, not too hot, and just enough structure. This is firmly in the New World style, but also tastes like wine.

• Lubanzi Chenin Blanc 2019 ($15, purchased, 12.5%): This South African white isn’t quite as crisp as I like my chenin blanc, but still well done — apple and pear fruit, maybe a little lemon. It’s not soft — just not as crisp as something like the Ken Forester. Imported by Cape Venture

• Spinelli Terre Di Chieti Rosato 2019 ($8, purchased, 12.5%): This Italian pink costs as little as €3 in Italy. Berry fruit, almost savory in what seems to be an Italian style much preferred by Italians, as well as bone dry and a stony finish. Highly recommended. Imported by Enotec Imports

• Poema Cava Brut NV ($12, purchased, 11.5%): A touch softer than traditional cava, the Spanish sparkling wine. That means red apple instead of green and not as much lemon. But well done, and the bubbles belie the price. Imported by Kobrand

Photo: “Happy Fourth of July 2013!” by JD Hancock is licensed under CC BY 2.0

More Fourth of July wine:
• Fourth of July wine 2020
• Fourth of July wine 2019
• Fourth of July wine 2018
• Wine of the week: Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV

Wine of the week: Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap White 2019

Ah, to drink chenin blanc now that summer is here – The Wolftrap White

Chenin blanc probably isn’t the most unappreciated white grape in the world – that’s likely riesling – but chenin is unappreciated enough. So when the Wine Curmudgeon can recommend a wine with chenin blanc – and especially at this price – how can I can pass up the opportunity?

The Wolftrap White 2019 ($10, sample, 13.5%) is a South African white blend; chenin (32 percent) is only the second grape after vigonier (38 percent) and ahead of grenache blanc (30 percent). But the chenin gives it backbone and structure; there’s a little spice from the grenache blanc and a bit of stone fruit (peach?) from the viognier. Refreshing and just the thing as the weather warms up.

This is a simple wine, which probably accounts for the surprising number of meh reviews elsewhere. But it’s not stupid, and to criticize it for not being something that it’s not supposed to be seems counterproductive.

One other note: The back label waxes poetic about oak, but this wine has seen about as much oak as my morning coffee.

Imported by Vineyard Brands

Mini-reviews 144: Pinot grigio, MAN, Altano, Gavi

woman wine
“Which of these four wines should I look for this month?”

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. Look for it on the fourth Friday of each month: this time, four white wines for April.

• ZIOBAFFA Pinot Grigio 2019 ($12, purchased, 12%): Odd, different Italian white, more in the pinot gris style than the usual pinot grigio tonic water. Plus, the finish seems to be almost oxidized. Not for all tastes, but I can see where some might like it. Imported by Mission Wine Company

• MAN Chardonnay Padstal 2019 ($10, sample, 13.5%): Pleasant, supermarket style chardonnay (simple, mostly varietal, a little thin) that doesn’t quite measure up to MAN’s chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc. Having said that, it’s not sweet and it does taste like chardonnay — some green apple and that chardonnay mouth feel. Imported by Vineyard Brands

• Symington Douro Altano Branco 2019 ($18, sample, 12.5%): Tart, lime-ish, and even orange-ish Portuguese white blend that is fresh and enjoyable — and somehow costs almost as much as two bottles of the MAN chenin blanc. Imported by Vineyards Brands

• Cameron Hughes Lot 752 2019 ($15, sample, 12%): The Italian white tries to answer the question: Is entry level Gavi, made with the cortese grape, worth $15? It’s clean, a bit spicy, and ultimately indifferent. Imported by Cameron Hughes Wine

Photo: “Deya Drinking Wine at Four Point Winery” by nan palmero is licensed under CC BY 2.0