Category:Wine Curmudgeon

What’s wrong with wine writing: Views from around the web

My post on the sorry state of wine writing was not, it seems, a shot in the dark. Many people feel this way. My post not only elicited a variety of comments here, but in emails and elsewhere. Along the way, I turned up a variety of writers with similar sentiments.

Among those:

? Tim Elliott at Winecast, who wrote: ?Too often, I default to the same sort of clinical reviews you see in the Wine Spectator and other wine pubs. Terse notes on color, aromas and flavors topped off with a rating on some scale. For almost 5 years now, that ?s been what I ?ve been doing. But I ?ve had enough. ?

? Ryan Opaz at WineBlogAtlas, who wrote: ?This is what I see in the wine blog-o-sphere, and while the exceptions are growing, there are still too many websites and blogs that have more in common with wine industry rags than with the new world of which they published in. ?

? Derek Lavallee, a wine critic for The Hill: ?Whether inspired by a sincere but strenuous attempt to describe that which is inherently subjective, or an egotistical outlet for frustrated poets using wine as their muse, most wine-speak typically results in alienation of the reader. ?

? The ever knowledgeable George Rose, writing for Dan Berger ?s Vintage Experiences: ?Much of what passes for wine writing seems more like a stuffy BBC period piece. I keep expecting Dame Judy Dench to pop out from behind the bushes and recite in proper English: ?I like Viognier to show a green-straw color, peachy-dried apricot nose ?

? And Mike Wangbickler, who reprinted Rose ?s essay on his blog, Caveman Wines: ?Why do we as wine writers, bloggers, and wine marketers insist on talking over the heads of our customers

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Podcast downloading problems

If you try to download or stream one of the Winecast podcasts, you may receive an error message — "account is out of bandwidth." This is apparently a problem with my online storage provider, and they should be working to fix it. I'll keep you posted.

The end of zinfandel as we know it

I have been writing an annual zinfandel column for about as long as I have had a publication or blog to write one for. The Wine Curmudgeon has always championed zinfandel as America’s national wine — cheap, well-made red wine that is food friendly and a lot more interesting than Australian shiraz or cute label merlot.

Sadly, however, I’m giving up the cause. I can’t find enough zinfandel to recommend anymore. Today, too many zinfandels are pricey, high alcohol bombshells that have more in common with port than with table wine. And, from what I’ve been told, those wines have permanently replaced the ones that I liked. I mentioned my dilemma to one well-known zinfandel maker, and he wasn’t even aware there used to be another style.

The final straw came this week, when I pulled a variety of zinfandels out of the wine closet in a last, desperate attempt to find some to write about. None was less than 14.5 percent alcohol and most were higher than 15 percent. And, unbelievably, each cost $18 or more. What was most disappointing though, is that they were as tannic as cabernet sauvignon, hot (which means you could taste the alcohol), unbalanced, and almost devoid of the tell-tale zinfandel fruit.

So, so long, my friend. We had fun, didn’t we?

For more on zinfandel:

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Major DrinkLocalWine.com announcement coming soon

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We ?re not quite ready to reveal the details, but Dave McIntyre and I will soon have big-time news about expanding DrinkLocalWine.com, our effort to give American regional wine the respect it deserves. (And, yes, that involves upgrading the website for those of you who have asked.)

In this, it will be part of the increasing popularity and almost unprecedented growth in the regional wine business. In Texas alone, there are 177 wineries. In 2000, there were about 60. Younger wine drinkers, who aren ?t obsessed with scores and status the way the fossils of my generation are, see regional wine as fun and interesting. They don ?t find anything unusual about wine being made in Ohio, something that would scare the hell out of most baby boomer wine drinkers.

Or, as Dave always says, ? ?Wine Country ? isn’t just the West Coast anymore. ?

The poster to the left, by the way, comes from Fox Run Vineyards in New York ?s Finger Lakes region. It ?s a throwback to the Rosie the Riveter campaign from World War II, and has already been picked up by wineries in Virginia ? and even California.

The Dregs Report: California secedes from U.S. — becomes its own wine country

W.R. Tish, as regular visitors here know, is a terrific wine writer ? Wine for All — and a very funny man. Hence, The Dregs Report, a takeoff on the very popular Internet site where the facts never get in the way of a good story.

My contribution is on the left sidebar. And if anyone is wondering if the story is true, or why I wrote it (or why Tish came up with the idea), look at the calendar and note what day comes in the middle of this week.

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Wine writing, and what’s wrong with it

Wine writing, and what's wrong with itWine writing in the United States is too serious, too self-absorbed, and too parochial. In the past six weeks, I have seen so many examples of these flaws that I feel compelled to say something. Too many of us want to be famous, and the only way we can do that is to write in winespeak about topics that only appeal to other wine writers who want to be famous.

I don’t write this lightly, and not just because I’m now fair game for every blogger in the universe. I write this because wine writing will never advance the cause of wine in the U.S. unless we understand that most of the stuff that we write about is of little interest to most Americans — including those who drink wine. A friend of mine (who will remain nameless for her protection) is a top-notch food writer who also does some wine. She doesn’t much care for writing about wine. How, she has asked me many times, can anyone read this stuff?

After the jump, what’s going on and how we can fix it:

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San Diego International wine competition highlights

A few thoughts after tasting 250 wines in two days as one of the 36 judges:

? Regional wine scored big. The best of show white wine was Dr. Konstantin Frank ?s semi-dry riesling and the dessert wine winner was from Wolffler Estate Vineyards, both from New York state. Both were stunning wines (and, as ice wines go, the Wolffler wasn ?t ridiculously expensive at $37). Missouri did well, including a gold medal for St. James ? very interesting strawberry wine. I was also impressed with Texas ? efforts. Llano Estacado won a gold (its riesling dessert wine) and silver (its Viviano Italian-style blend) and Stone House in the Hill Country won a silver for its norton.

? And yes, I was surprised by the success of regional wine. Call me a reverse snob, but I didn ?t expect a competition with mostly California judges to see the merits of regional wine. Shows how much I know.

? Biggest surprise?  The best champagne/sparkling wine was Pink from Australia ?s Yellowglen. The $12 bubbly beat several much more expensive and better known wines, demonstrating the advantages of blind tasting. I actually voted for another wine in the sweepstakes balloting. I didn ?t think the Pink was fruity enough.

? High alcohol hasn ?t left us yet. Many of the gold-medal red wines were higher than 14.5 percent, and quite a few were higher than 15 percent. I think this is one area that shows  the influence of California judges, and especially winemakers as judges. They aren ?t bothered by high alcohol the way many of the rest of us are.

? Complete results are here. Thanks to Robert Whitely for asking me to judge and to Richard Carey of Vitis Research and Kimberly Charles of Charles Communications, who were the other two judges at my table.