Wine of the week: Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap White 2019

Ah, to drink chenin blanc now that summer is here – The Wolftrap White

Chenin blanc probably isn’t the most unappreciated white grape in the world – that’s likely riesling – but chenin is unappreciated enough. So when the Wine Curmudgeon can recommend a wine with chenin blanc – and especially at this price – how can I can pass up the opportunity?

The Wolftrap White 2019 ($10, sample, 13.5%) is a South African white blend; chenin (32 percent) is only the second grape after vigonier (38 percent) and ahead of grenache blanc (30 percent). But the chenin gives it backbone and structure; there’s a little spice from the grenache blanc and a bit of stone fruit (peach?) from the viognier. Refreshing and just the thing as the weather warms up.

This is a simple wine, which probably accounts for the surprising number of meh reviews elsewhere. But it’s not stupid, and to criticize it for not being something that it’s not supposed to be seems counterproductive.

One other note: The back label waxes poetic about oak, but this wine has seen about as much oak as my morning coffee.

Imported by Vineyard Brands