Wine of the week: Ontañón Rioja Viticultura Ecologica 2013

The embarrassment of riches that is cheap Spanish wine would intimidate a lesser writer than the Wine Curmudgeon. But I will continue to write about great cheap Spanish wine like the Ontanon Rioja until the rest of the wine world – yes, that means you, California – gets the message.

The Ontanon Rioja ($13, purchased, 13%) is a modern style of Rioja, the red wine made with tempranillo from the Spanish region of Rioja. That means very fresh and with a touch more vanilla and oak than I like. But who am I to quibble about a little more more oak in a wine that is otherwise delightful?

All the parts are there for a well-made and enjoyable Rioja — bright tart cherry fruit, the hint of orange peel, and the earthiness that so many other wines leave out because they don’t want to offend the so-called U.S. palate. Note to wine marketers: If I wanted Dr Pepper, I’d drink Dr Pepper.

Highly recommended, and an ideal wine for spring and summer cookouts, whether burgers or chicken. My only regret? That it’s not a couple of dollars cheaper, so I could put it in the 2017 $10 Hall of Fame.