Wine of the week: Line 39 Sauvignon Blanc 2010

Here ?s today ?s metaphysical question: Is Cecchetti Wine Company, which makes Line 39, an artisan producer because it ?s family-owned, or part of evil Big Wine because its owners once worked for the company that makes Pepperwood Grove, about as $7 a grocery store wine as it gets?

Sometimes, we make wine harder than it needs to be.

The question we should be asking ?What does the wine taste like And. as I noted for the 2009, the 2010 Line 39 ($10, purchased, 13.5%) is ?more than I expected. ?

It ?s also interestingly different from the ?09, with less fruit and more California grassy-ness (the smell of a freshly mowed lawn that is a hallmark of a certain kind of California sauvignon blanc). Look for some lime zest and a sort of slate finish ? all clean and crisp. This is nicely done wine that, if it not quite $10 Hall of Fame quality, is the sort of thing to keep chilled around the house so it ?s handy when you feel like a glass.