The Marichal Grand Reserve “A” takes tannat to a place where many of us thought it couldn’t go
Tannat is a red grape that causes almost as much controversy as pinotage – and we know how much controversy pinotage causes.
That’s because tannat can be difficult to work with, what with inky juice, thick skin, and very high tannins. I’ve had some that were so astringent that it was all I could do to taste them, let alone swallow. One Dallas wine bar used to sell this kind of tannat because it was so undrinkable – “try this and see how how much of a man you are!”
Having said that, some tannats from Uruguay are well-regarded. Which, mostly, is why I opened the Marichal Tannat Grand Reserve “A” 2018 ($53, sample, 14%). The grape has found a home in the South American country, far from its native France.
And I’m glad I did. The Marichal is a stunning wine. The tannins and intensity are under control, so that it’s much rounder and richer than I expected. In fact, the tannins are tucked firmly in the back, complementing the wine but not getting in the way. Yet the Marichal still shows the grape’s character – plum fruit, with maybe a smidge of dark berries; some smoke and earth, though not necessarily obvious; and a long, almost chalky finish.
In this, it tastes much like a fine red Bordeaux. Which given the grape’s pedigree, isn’t surprising. The only catch here? The wine’s price. Yes, it’s delicious, but that’s a lot of money to pay for something most of us haven’t heard of. Still, if you do, you’ll be more than pleased.
Imported by Global Wine Imports