This Chilean red speaks to tradition and Chile’s history of top-notch wine
Twice in my career, wine experts have told me that Chilean cabernet sauvignon could be the best in the world. It would combine the traditions of France with the technology of California to produce wine that outdid both.
This never really happened. Chalk it up to market trends, consolidation in Chile, or just the fickleness of the wine business. But the Peña family’s Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 ($80, sample, 14.9%) shows what might have been possible.
This is a top-notch red wine, layered and subtle and complex. And though it’s certainly drinkable now, it’s nowhere near close to its potential; maybe a decade left of aging?
Since it’s more traditional in style, it leans more toward red Bordeaux than Napa cabernet. That means lots of green herbs, a bit of black pepper, and the tannins pushed back but still doing their job. Meanwhile, the acidity is in balance with the barely ripe black fruit, and the alcohol doesn’t get in the way. It’s a surprisingly nuanced wine given that the alcohol is almost 15 percent.
This is holiday prime rib wine, as well as a gift for someone who likes cabernet but understands that it doesn’t always have to rich and fruity. And though I’m not sure an $80 wine can be a value, its price compares favorably to similar labels from France and California.
Imported by Global Vineyard Importers