Premiumization strikes again

Two $15 wines that aren’t worth $15 and don’t taste like much of anything, either

The Wine Curmudgeon rants a lot about premiumization and how it’s killing the wine business. Now, I have two more examples, $15 wines that are not worth what they cost, don’t taste like the wines they claim to be, and were apparently conceived for no other reason than to cost $15.

In this, it’s worth noting that these kinds of wines know no geographical boundaries or varietal. They can come from anywhere in the world and be made with any grape. Which, of course, is the point of premiumization – all wine should cost more money and taste the same.

The first: A French picpoul. To quote my tasting notes: “Welcome to the post-modern wine world — too much money for ordinary wine (at best). Thin in the back, with very little picpoul character.” In other words, made with cheaper grapes, missing the classic picpoul tartness, and seems to be made to taste like supermarket pinot grigio.

The second: A French Beaujolais that tastes neither French nor like Beaujolais. Rather (again, from my notes): “Heavy-ish and not especially Beaujolais. Some berry fruit and spice, but mostly just sits in the glass and stares back at you.” This red, with 14.5 percent alcohol, tastes like a California merlot that was made to taste like California cabernet sauvignon.

But WC, some of you may be asking, what difference does this make? Aren’t you here to warn about these wines?

I am. But, sadly, not enough of the wine world has the WC to rely on. (Not that I haven’t tried to make it otherwise.)

Rather, it’s the idea that an unsuspecting wine drinker will walk into a wine shop, think that $15 constitutes quality, and buy this crap. Which I did, and they even fooled me.

Then, when they get it home, they’ll taste it, go, “Bleech (or whatever the generation-equivalent expression is),” and never buy wine again.

And wine, which has enough trouble keeping customers, will have lost another one.

Thanks again, premiumization.

Photo: “Tasting wines.” by adactio is licensed under CC BY 2.0.