Mini-reviews 174: The final edition

Reviews of wines that don’t need their own post, but are worth noting for one reason or another. It always ran on the fourth Friday of each month — which makes this the last one.

• Domaine Lafage Tessellae Old Vines 2018 ($10, purchased, 14.5%): Even after all these years, wine can still surprise me. This French red — surprisingly available — is just not drinkable, but enjoyable and interesting. Balanced, spicy, not quite jammy, red fruit, and even some herbs, with tannins pushed to the back. And not hot. Imported by European Cellars

• Château Nicot Blanc 2022 ($12, purchased, 13.%): There’s nothing really wrong with this; it’s a decent example of a cheap white Bordeaux (sauvignon blanc and muscadelle, and the latter adds a little spice). But is it worth buying again? Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons

• Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages 2022 ($11, purchased, 12.5%) Wine is in big trouble when a producer likes Jadot makes a boring, almost plonky French chardonnay that isn’t worth $11. Imported by Kobrand

• Collequieto Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2021 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): Fairly typical Italian red from the Montepluciano d’Abruzzo region, which means sour cherry but with a little more in the way of tannins. Not as well done as other red d’Abruzzos, but still ready for spaghetti and meatballs. Imported by F&B Wine Imports

Photo: “cashier at wine store” by Consumerist Dot Com is licensed under CC BY 2.0.