Expensive wine 142: Eden Rift Estate Pinot Noir 2018

The Eden Rift Estate pinot noir is traditional in style and more than enjoyable

Pinot noir may be the most controversial subject among wine geeks today. Should it taste like pinot noir – earthy and spicy, with more reserved fruit, or is it OK to taste like a fruity red blend (and even sweet)?

Regular visitors will know where the Wine Curmudgeon stands in this debate, and the Eden Rift Estate pinot noir is a marvelous example of what traditional pinot noir should – and can – taste like.

Even more surprising: The Eden Rift ($48, sample, 13.8%) is a California wine, from the less well known Cienega Valley, a couple of hours south of San Francisco. California, of course, invented the second style of pinot noir.

In this, there is much to appreciate about the Eden Rift. Look for a little earth – just enough to let you know it’s pinot noir, but not to make you think it’s from Burgundy. Plus, there’s dark, tart fruit (cranberry? blackberry?), some pepper, and more than a little minerality on the finish. The tnnins are tucked nicely in the background, just as they should be for pinot noir.

Highly recommended. Yes, $48 is a lot to pay, but given the middling quality of so many pinot noirs in this price range, it’s a decent value.