Wine of the week: Farnese Fantini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2018

This Italian red is an especially good example of the value and quality available from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo region

Chianti and its sangiovese-based compadres get most of the attention, and the Wine Curmudgeon has noted how often these wines offer quality and value.

But the red wines from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo in central Italy are, in their own way, just as compelling for those of us who want quality cheap wine and are willing to look past reputation. The Farnese Fantini is just such a wine.

This vintage of the Fantini ($10, purchased, 13.5%) isn’t quite as refined as past ones, or as some others from d’Abruzzo. Call it little more rustic, which is wine geek for old-fashioned but in a good way. But there is quality cherry fruit (not thin, not too ripe), just like so many other fine, cheap Italian red wines, and it’s balanced by a tartness common again to so many of these wines.

This is an older vintage, but the Fantini is wonderfully consistent across vintages — newer ones may not be quite as rustic, but should still be enjoyable. Serve this with almost any braised meat as winter winds down.

Imported by Empson USA