Is chenin blanc finally becoming respectable?

One leading wine writer says South Africa’s chenin is some of the world’s most enjoyable white wine

The Wine Curmudgeon has long advocated for chenin blanc, which has usually been derided as too geeky, too insipid, or not chardonnay. Or, of course, all three.

So imagine my pleasure when the well-respected Sara Schneider wrote – in the upscale Robb Report, of all places – that chenin blanc deserved all the respect that it hasn’t been getting, and then signaled out South African chenin blanc.

Thank you, Sara.

Chenin from France’s Loire has long been respected, but also known as the exception that proves the rule. Yes, wines like Savennieres are terrific, so why bother with anything else?

This is crap, of course, and I’ve been writing about cheap terrific chenin for years, including and especially from South Africa. The 2019 MAN chenin was the blog’s 2021 Cheap Wine of the Year.

The Robb Report story expands on that in wondrous glory, including an interview with the legendary Ken Forrester, whose chenin is so well done that it used to be almost impossible to buy in much of this country. Because, of course, it’s chenin blanc.

So, in honor of all that South African chenin blanc praise, here are four terrific $10ish South African chenins:

• The MAN 2020 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): Mostly as well done as the 2019 — some citrus, some minerality, but a softer mouth fee. And points to MAN for still calling the wine Steen, which is what all South African chenin used to be called. Imported by Vineyard Brands

• Linton Park White Rhino 2019 ($10, purchased, 12%): Some chenin producers aim for sweet, but there isn’t any sugar here. It’s lemony, tart, very dry, and almost rustic. Imported by SolStars, Inc.

• Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc 2019 ($15, purchased, 13%): Delicious – apple and lime fruit, but not too soft or sweet. Imported by Broadbent Selections

• Spier Signature Chenin Blanc 2019 ($10, purchased, 13.5%): Total Wine private label that was much better than expected – fresh, crisp, and lemony. Not as stony as I like, but well made and enjoyable. Imported by Saranty Imports

Photo: Kelsey Chance on Unsplash