Expensive wine 145: Justin Isosceles 2016

The Justin Isosceles is a pricey California red blend that delivers quality and consistency

One of the many perks of this job is tasting the Justin Isosceles, a red blend from Paso Robles. It’s an example of California wine at its best, an effort that speaks to terroir, a certain winemaking style, and the idea that all California wine at this price doesn’t have to taste alike.

Because the Justin Isosceles isn’t cheap. The 2016 ($80, sample, 14.5%) costs about $10 more than the 2015, so it gives me a reason to be even more critical. Fortunately, the wine is as it always is – polished and enjoyable, combining a powerful Paso Robles style with technique and skill so that it’s fresh and approachable. In this, though, it doesn’t taste exactly the same every vintage, and the 2016 isn’t quite as big as the 2015.

Look for lots (and lots) of ripe berry fruit mixed with some green herbs and an almost menthol sort of thing. There’s a full mouth feel and soft tannins, but this isn’t an overripe, stuff it in your face whether you like it or not kind of wine. It’s not subtle, certainly, but you can take a couple of swallows without fanning yourself.

Just the wine for a Father’s Day gift or Father’s Day cookout – red meat, certainly, and something to to be enjoyed and savored with the meal.