Wine of the week: Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose Brut NV

The Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose is a first-rate Argentine bubbly — and a terrific value

Know two things about this wine: First, it’s difficult to find quality dry sparkling wine made with the charmat method, and especially at this price. Second, I should have reviewed it months ago – it’s that well done.

So consider this a wholehearted endorsement of the Argentine Domaine Bousquet Sparkling Rose NV ($12, sample, 12%). In fact, I didn’t expect to like it, and I couldn’t have been more wrong. Which is why the first rule of wine criticism (as I always remind myself) is to taste the wine before judging it.

Too much charmat sparkling is soft, has flabby bubbles, and doesn’t have enough acidity or fruit to balance its sweetness. None of that is the case here. Even more remarkable is that the wine is made with two grapes – pinot noir (75 percent) and chardonnay (25 percent) – that don’t necessarily do well in Argentina.

Nevertheless, it works here. Look for lots of fresh red berry fruit from the pinot noir as well as a pleasant, almost citrus aroma. The chardonnay adds body and acidity; the residual sugar is as high as some sweeter tasting sparklers, but the sweetness isn’t obvious here. And the bubbles are first-rate, tight and small.

Highly recommended, and almost certain to enter the $10 Hall of Fame in January. Chill this and drink it on its own, or pair it with almost anything you’d drink rose still wine with. And be glad I finally remembered to review it.

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