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Two wines from Aldi, and the differences in cheap wine

There are two kinds of cheap wine — those made to hit a certain price, like Two-buck Chuck, and those made to taste like wine, like the bottles in the $10 Hall of Fame. This is often a difficult concept to explain, since consumers assume price is price and don’t think much past that.

That’s why I was so intrigued by two $5 wines I bought at Aldi, the national discount grocer (and where most of the wine is private label). The wines — a Spanish tempranillo and an Italian red from Montepulciano — demonstrated this contradiction perfectly. The former was everything great cheap wine should be, enjoyable and a value, even at $5. The latter was made to cost $5, and I was reminded of that with every sip.

The quality of wines made to hit a certain price are notoriously inconsistent. That’s because, if the price of grapes increases, the wine contains cheaper grapes of lesser quality so it can maintain its price. Wine made to taste like wine is usually made with better quality grapes, so that it tastes the way it should. The producer either raises the price if grapes become more expensive or takes a smaller profit.

The tempranillo, Vina Decana 2010 ($5, purchased, 12.5%), tasted like tempranillo — cherry fruit balanced by crispness and some sort of combination of vanilla and earthiness. No, it’s not a Gran Reserva Rioja, and I realize all those adjectives might confuse the issue. The point is that the wine has a lot more going on than one would expect for $5, and someone paid attention to this when they made it. In this, it reminded me of the much beloved and sorely missed Solaz, perhaps the greatest cheap red wine of my wine writing career.

The Montepulciano, Violescent Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2011 ($5, purchased, 13.5%), was just the opposite, made to cost $5 and that what it tasted like wasn’t as important as how much it cost. The wine was rough and acidic, almost green and unripe in an old fashioned “This is the way we churned out cheap wine in Italy before the winemaking revolution of the past two decades” style. It was drinkable, but we want more than that, don’t we?

The other thing this illustrates is that wine quality is not always a retailer’s top concern, and this is especially true for retailers like Aldi that sell on price. Their thinking is centered around product mix, shelf space, what’s available, and what has the best margins. The burden is on the consumer to decide if the wine is a value, and given how little time most of us have to worry about these things (and little experience and education, as well), that’s not as easy as it should be. What’s worse is that retailers count on that, and which is why too much wine is like the Violescent and not the Decana.

More about Aldi wine:
The Aldi wine experience
Wine of the week: Aldi private labels
The Five Day, $3 Wine Challenge: The results

 

6 Responses to Two wines from Aldi, and the differences in cheap wine

  1. mccjunk@woh.rr.com' tony russo says:

    Could not AGREE more. I am sipping the decana temp 2010 as i write this; still a decent value at $6 here in Ohio (minimum state pricing BS).

    • Be sure to check out the blog on March 24, Tony, when I take a look at the Aldi wine experience. And state minimum pricing is a wonderful thing, no?

      • mccjunk@woh.rr.com' tony russo says:

        Don’t get me started on that! Just another way for Ohio to get more sales tax revenue.
        Here’s another $6 above-average wine deal for you to check out. I assume you have Kroger stores near you. Tough to find in-stock but worth the effort:
        2011 Cameron Hughes
        Lot 358 Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina)
        UPC 8 45517 00358 4
        I bought this tonight after buying a couple more of the DeCana Temps at Aldi’s…

  2. pbthomas1@comcast.net' Peter Thomas says:

    I’ve enjoyed Vina Decana 2010 tempranillo very much. At $5 it is easy on the wallet and delightful to drink. I appreciate the connoisseur’s comments, but argue that it’s pleasant taste and full flavor medium dryness make it one of my favorites.

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